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Panel Glue-Up, How Many Boards?

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Forum topic by JustJoe posted 05-23-2013 01:57 PM 802 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JustJoe

1554 posts in 793 days


05-23-2013 01:57 PM

I didn’t know if this should go here or in Joinery or ??? so if it’s wrong, mods can move it please….

Today I start picking thru the stack of cherry to choose the boards for my dresser. I need 18” wide panels for the sides and top, and the widest boards i have are 12”.

Of course I’ll do my best to match grain but in the end there will still be boards glued to boards and I want it to look good. So what’s the rule of thumb for gluing up wider panels in big boards – do I put two 9” together and have the line going right up the middle, or three 6” and have two lines, but they’re not in the middle, or do I rip them all into little 3 and 4 inch or what????

I’m starting with shaker style but since I plan as I go that will probably change. If I can’t get wide glued panels to look good I might go with frame and panel, but that would change all the joinery too so who knows…
thanks
Joe

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7 replies so far

View Wolfdaddy's profile

Wolfdaddy

263 posts in 589 days


#1 posted 05-23-2013 02:06 PM

If it were me I would probably go with 3 pieces at 6” The narrower pieces will be a little more stable than 2 wider pieces, and would still look good if you can match the grain up.

-- Your failures do not take away your possibilities.

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bandit571

7530 posts in 1438 days


#2 posted 05-23-2013 02:07 PM

Maybe make them as three-board panels? Rip the 12” wide ones to 6”, add a third board. Third one can either be in the middle, or rip it down to 3” each and add to the outside edges. The more pieces in the panel, the less it will cup.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3590 posts in 2715 days


#3 posted 05-23-2013 02:10 PM

3 panels. You’ll be a LOT happier when the panels don’t bow.
Don’t forget to alternate the growth rings directions during the glue-up.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Wolfdaddy

263 posts in 589 days


#4 posted 05-23-2013 02:16 PM

+1 to Bill and bandit’s posts
I like the idea of ripping the 12” in half and inserting another piece between them. That way you can alternate the rings and still get some grain continuity on the two outside pieces.

-- Your failures do not take away your possibilities.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

7530 posts in 1438 days


#5 posted 05-23-2013 02:17 PM

About like this?

These came from a single 6” wide plank. Black Walnut. Came out decently

Not to bad. As for growth rings…..I usually just go by best face showing. I will move each around until I like the way the grain looks. I do not even use any “Bisquits” to align thing up. Just a plain old edge joint.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 793 days


#6 posted 05-23-2013 02:36 PM

Thanks guys – looks like the consensus is 3 6” vs two wider boards, which gives me a lot more options when it comes to choosing matching boards.

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View Buckethead's profile

Buckethead

1961 posts in 623 days


#7 posted 05-23-2013 03:01 PM

My two cents on grain matching: I like when a piece looks like one single board. I also like when boards are clearly joined together. Baords which come close, but seem jointed are my least favorite, not that it ruins a piece, but to me, seeing the work is better.

I’m may get reprimanded by traditionalists for this, but having been a framing carpenter for so many years, my work is all to often hidden.

Dovetails, mortise and tenons, dowels, etc… Should be visibly presented where possible too. (In my humble opinion)

At least this is how I intend to start off. Perhaps as I advance, I will evolve and see it differently.

-- Bucket, any person that spends 10k on a bicycle is guaranteed to be a $@I almost started to like you. -bhog

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