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Forum topic by Steve Cherry posted 05-23-2013 07:53 AM 589 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Steve Cherry

115 posts in 550 days


05-23-2013 07:53 AM

I made a couple of book cases a year or so ago and finished them with Olympic interior latex semi-gloss. I let the paint dry for at least the recommended time, but even after more than a year after a book has been sitting on the shelf when you go to remove it, it seems to stick. Its almost like the paint never really dried completely. Now the shelves in some places are crummy looking because of the fibers from book covers sticking to them. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Is this a problem common to modern latex finishes? Should I have put a coat of polyurethane over top of the latex finish? Recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks

-- Steve - Seaford, DE


4 replies so far

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1479 posts in 1080 days


#1 posted 05-23-2013 11:58 AM

I always use the top grade flat latex/acrylic topped with clear waterborne poly floor finish. No problema.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View Oldtool's profile

Oldtool

1880 posts in 909 days


#2 posted 05-23-2013 12:12 PM

I have also experienced this condition, and researched it somewhat. It is referred to as “blocking”, and it s due to the latex paint, which was described as never really becoming solid.
Here are a few sites covering the condition:

https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/for-contractors/interior-paint-problems-blocking-or-sticking;jsessionid=TQrvRTvZQhz96yMqdRj4Q1ZbnlRDKLCky5BlnJQRQNzkPyMpGBhc!-654784449!NONE

http://forums.finehomebuilding.com/breaktime/general-discussion/paint-blocking

I’ve read (but haven’t tried) that you can coat the surface with talcum power. I think shellac or varnish might be a better solution.

In any event, Google “paint blocking”, or “latex paint blocking”, and you’ll get a years worth of reading.

-- "I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The point is to bring them the real facts." - Abraham Lincoln

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

1010 posts in 1409 days


#3 posted 05-23-2013 12:43 PM

Latex paint is never a proper finish for any furniture or cabinetry! I say this over and over again. Latex is rubber and therefore never, ever hardens completely. It’s not a “modern latex issue” it’s a latex issue. Clint is right, it should have been top coated, if you have to use latex.

The correct way to finish is using a tinted furniture finish. Any poly, lacquer or shellac would have worked better than latex. By tinting it you can have a solid color without the problems you are encountering. It also sprays correctly and/or levels out better than latex.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"!

View Steve Cherry's profile

Steve Cherry

115 posts in 550 days


#4 posted 05-23-2013 12:53 PM

Thank you all for you prompt reply’s. And thanks for all the information. I guess I should have searched a little before posting the question, but I really appreciate you replies. I’ll probably make another couple of bookcases in a couple of years and I’ll refinish the old one when I finish the new one correctly. Thanks again.

-- Steve - Seaford, DE

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