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Forum topic by Odiferous | posted 05-23-2013 05:28 AM | 5753 views | 1 time favorited | 30 replies | ![]() |
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05-23-2013 05:28 AM |
So after months of wading through the Craigslist sea of mistreated Craftsmans and overpriced everything else, I finally spotted something that could actually be a deal that’s also in my price range. And that gets me thinking—if I catch a lucky score, how the heck do I get it home? I have a Ranger with a 4’x6’ bed—how does one get a contractor/hybrid or (dare I dream) a low-end cabinet saw up into the bed? I’m fairly able-bodied, but my wife isn’t, and I don’t have much other help to enlist. I guess I could stop by HF and buy some ramps, but trying to push a table saw up a ramp just seems comical. I do have a two-wheel dolly (not an appliance dolly) and furniture dolly. Is this just a matter of having to either have a forklift or a small sports team to lift it into the bed? Or is it more a “here’s the cash, now don’t mind me while I spend two hours in your driveway disassembling the saw”? I honestly don’t even know what these things weigh, but I’m pretty sure I can’t lift it by myself. |
30 replies so far
#1 posted 05-23-2013 05:52 AM |
Get a piece of 3/4” ply about 6’ x 2’ wide. Lean one Take off the wings and fence rails before moving. A contractor saw may need the motor removed to |
#2 posted 05-23-2013 06:04 AM |
I bought a Ridgid 3650 a few months back. Have the same vehicle you do with a bed topper. Took along a friend . The saw wouldn’t fit with the bed topper. So the saw had to be removed from the base. 4 bolts and it was off. Hopefully the seller will be able to help you lift it into the truck. Getting it into your shop is another story. Surely there is someone you can enlist to give you a hand ? |
#3 posted 05-23-2013 07:57 AM |
I’ve moved my contractor saw several times using a Ranger. -- Joe |
#4 posted 05-23-2013 09:17 AM |
I’ve fit contractor saws into my minivan so a Ranger shouldn’t be a problem if you remove some of the basics and flip it upside down as others have suggested. -- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.... |
#5 posted 05-23-2013 11:21 AM |
take loren’s advice, but add a ledger (a 2X4) screwed to the bottom of the plywood sheet. rest the saw on ledger, that way, when the plywood is lifted and slid, the saw goes along for the ride into the truck. teh buyer of my refurbed unisaw did it this way, and the two of us handled it easily. -- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it. |
#6 posted 05-23-2013 01:12 PM |
take the table off and it will be a lot lighter the above all sounds good -- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country |
#7 posted 05-23-2013 01:26 PM |
A tilt trailer, the type for hauling mowers, makes the job easy. -- Jim from Doniphan |
#8 posted 05-23-2013 02:32 PM |
Apparently I was up a little late for thinking spatially—I just never see a table saw in any position but upright, so I guess I wasn’t considering laying the silly thing down. Loren/Joe/toolie: So the saw just rides in the bed lying on its back—wouldn’t that put all the weight on the back of the table? RonInOhio: Yeah I have a fiberglass tonneau—I thought I would love it, but nothing fits under it, so I end up taking it off damned near every time I use the truck. knotscott: so roll it onto its back in the bed, then flip it all the way up onto its top for the ride home? Straightbowed: my current saw is an 8” direct drive benchtop—taking the table off means disassembling the entire saw. Is the table on a “real” saw typically easy to remove (and reattach accurately)? I can see it might not be too bad if it’s a cabinet mount saw. |
#9 posted 05-23-2013 02:45 PM |
What I do when I need to move my Unisaw. I roll it to a couple feet from the back of my trailer with the left side facing the trailer. If you have a ways to move the saw to or away from the trailer, put the saw on the handcart with the top against the handle. I have a ¾ ton pickup, but it’s easier to use the trailer because my tailgate is about 36 inches off the ground Anyhow that’s how I do it. It works for me, and the only disassembly I do is to take off the rip fence. The guide rails stay on. If you figure a way to get the saw in your truck standing on it’s legs, tie it down very well!!! I was behind a guy that went around a corner with a saw in back and the saw rolled all the way out of his truck. The saw was totaled, and the car that hit it had a lot of damage. It also dinged the side of his bed where the saw hit it. Be safe, if you don’t feel comfortable doing it. Hire a flatbed tow truck. The bill is cheaper than your back. |
#10 posted 05-23-2013 03:15 PM |
What Joe says – I’ve moved mine three times with the same results. -- When I was a kid I wanted to be older . . . . . this CRAP is not what I expected ! |
#11 posted 05-23-2013 03:21 PM |
The cast iron table won’t be damaged by laying the You can lay a saw on any of its sides, but with a cabinet |
#12 posted 05-23-2013 03:36 PM |
I put the carpet down so the top won’t get scratcheed. |
#13 posted 05-23-2013 03:38 PM |
Just to be clear, I meant the final position in the truck is upside down. Taking the top off a contractor saw is major surgery, so I wouldn’t do that. (Taking the top off of a cabinet saw would not be a big deal and would be ok.) -- Joe |
#14 posted 05-23-2013 06:26 PM |
“RonInOhio: Yeah I have a fiberglass tonneau—I thought I would love it, but nothing fits under it, so I end up taking it off damned near every time I use the truck.” @ Odiferous: Actually I have a cab high top very similar to this… I really like it. |
#15 posted 05-23-2013 07:57 PM |
Thanks for all the info—this seems much more doable now. I missed out on the deal, of course, so filing this away for the future. Back to debating the big three options for a saw <= $500
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