Tried using Boeshield Rustfree - leaves residue... Any ideas?

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Forum topic by gtbuzz posted 05-19-2013 09:49 PM 5689 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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427 posts in 2468 days

05-19-2013 09:49 PM

I had read a couple of testimonials on Boeshield Rustfree and thought I’d give it a shot on my bandsaw CI table that had a couple of “oops” rust spots on it (I left it unprotected for about a year not knowing any better). I followed the directions on the bottle and wet down the surface, let it sit and wiped off after about 30 seconds. It actually worked pretty well at removing the rust stains, however, there was a pretty bad side effect – it seems to have left an odd deposit behind.

That picture shows it off worse than it actually is. The flash is a little harsh and I got it at just the right angle, but you get the idea. If you look at the table straight down, it’s not really as bad. There’s no texture to it, it seems like there was just some hazy deposits left behind in the table.

I went to the Boeshield website and read this:

For light rust on steel or cast iron, spray RustFreeâ„¢ on a rag and wipe surface. Do not spray directly on surface, as it may cause spotting.

That’s different than the directions on the bottle, so yeah, thanks for that.

Any ideas on how to clear up this haze? Tried mineral spirits but that didn’t seem to do anything. For what it’s worth it did work pretty well in its intended application.

16 replies so far

View kdc68's profile


2658 posts in 2303 days

#1 posted 05-19-2013 10:05 PM

Wow…It may sound odd (and am just guessing) but you may want to try to spray the Boeshield on a rag and aggressively wipe a small area to see if it removes the residue. Maybe you will reactivate it by doing so and will come off…good luck

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View ScottKaye's profile


648 posts in 1979 days

#2 posted 05-19-2013 10:21 PM

If the above doesn’t work for you, you can always strip it. Try mineral spirits first. If that still doesn’t work, take a 3m scotch brite pad (fine to ultra fine) and use some rubbing compound and attack that top. I use a 3m pad that I cut into a circle attached to my 5” random orbit sander whenever I need to clean up a top prior to protection. this will get your top clean with out gouging it out like sand paper can do over time.

-- "Nothing happens until you build it"

View ScrubPlane's profile


190 posts in 2222 days

#3 posted 05-19-2013 10:26 PM

I had the same effect once with Boeshield due to my own error. My suggestion is to strip your top down as Scott recommends and then re-apply the Boeshield in very, very light layers…building up over several applications.

Not sure if you did the same thing I did but the first time I used the stuff I sprayed it on too heavy and left it. I know they say you can let it sit but as I noted I did not have any luck.

It really is a good product…suggest you try again.

View gtbuzz's profile


427 posts in 2468 days

#4 posted 05-19-2013 10:45 PM

Yeah, I left it on for the 30 seconds (maybe it was a minute) that the bottle advised. I really am starting to think that was my downfall. Kind of irritating that the directions on the bottle don’t match the directions on the website. Tried going over the residue areas with the Rustfree sprayed on a cloth and it didn’t seem to help much unfortunately.

@ScottKaye – when you say strip it with some rubbing compound, do you mean something like this? After that can I go at it with my normal regiment of T9 + wax?

View AdrianM's profile


105 posts in 2336 days

#5 posted 05-25-2013 01:33 PM

Try CRC 3-36.

View GerryB's profile


69 posts in 2608 days

#6 posted 05-25-2013 02:44 PM

Or, . . . You could use a good metal polish and crumpled up aluminum foil. The foil will not scratch the cast iron, but should take off the residue.

-- The pursuit of excellence is gratifying and healthy. The pursuit of perfection is frustrating, neurotic, and a terrible waste of time. Edwin Bliss

View HorizontalMike's profile


7758 posts in 2940 days

#7 posted 05-25-2013 02:48 PM

Try using the Scotch Brite pad with the RustFree in one hand, and with the other hand have a clean shop towel/rag to immediately wipe off. I have also used #0000 steel wool with the RF. IMO, it is important to NOT let this product dry on the cast iron. At this point you may have no choice but to resurface the top with abrasive pads. And I like Johnson’s Paste Wax better than Boeshield.

FWIW, I also learned the hard way… 8-(

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Willeh's profile


228 posts in 2366 days

#8 posted 05-25-2013 02:57 PM

Looks more like the oil lifted some prior wax? I would strip it down and try again.. I’m also a fan of using an autmotive carnuba wax on cast iron surface to keep it sealed..

-- Will, Ontario Canada. "I can do fast, cheap and good, but you can only pick two... "

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 2313 days

#9 posted 05-25-2013 02:59 PM

I use G96 Gun Treatment. My shop doesn’t have permanent heat, and in winter I heat it up quick with a propane mini-salamander and then maintain with electric heaters. So the humidity can vary wildly. Used G96 last year in late summer. Just checked all my CI stuff yesterday. No rust.

I clean with mineral spirits, then use the G96, and then next day I put on a few coats of Johnson’s paste wax.

View poopiekat's profile


4356 posts in 3761 days

#10 posted 05-25-2013 02:59 PM

I’m used to inhaling the fumes from various aerosol products, with little or no reaction. I can tolerate anything, but Boeshield paralyzed my lungs in a way I’d thought I’d never recover from. I can’t speak for everybody, but it was three days of real discomfort in the chest after using this product on a table saw in a humid environment.
Please be careful, work outside or use ventilation!

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

View HorizontalMike's profile


7758 posts in 2940 days

#11 posted 05-25-2013 03:24 PM

Ya’ think?...Boeshield Rust-Free spray contains Phosphoric Acid, a very strong acid (pH of 1.75).

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View RonInOhio's profile


721 posts in 2890 days

#12 posted 05-25-2013 03:37 PM

I Second CRC-3-36 . Its the best rust inhibitor out there.

View gtbuzz's profile


427 posts in 2468 days

#13 posted 05-28-2013 01:51 AM

Thanks for all the replies. I several of the different methods here including refinishing the top using rubbing compound and a Scotchbrite pad. That worked okay (definitely made the top a lot shinier and got rid of some of the stains from various finishes accidentally being placed on top), but what ultimately worked the best was… Boeshield Rustfree. Horizontalmike was right, the best way to use it is to spray a cloth, wipe the surface and quickly wipe off any residue. Doing this a second time pretty much cleared everything right up. Here’s a picture of the “finished” top:

Most of the un-evenness in the picture is the harsh lighting combined with the crappy job I did waxing the surface afterwards. I wish I had a picture of the original with the rust spots and stains, but despite the troubles I had with it, the Rustfree did work quite well. Just wish the directions on the bottle weren’t wrong. Live and learn I guess.

Also, as others have noticed, the stuff is RANK. I had to wear a respirator to have any hope of actually using the stuff (I wouldn’t even bother with a dust mask). Could still smell it through the respirator actually; I have a 3M mask with the P100 particulate filters – those normally work well with most finishes, but this is probably a sign I should opt for the vapor cartridges instead.

View kdc68's profile


2658 posts in 2303 days

#14 posted 05-28-2013 01:54 AM

gtbuzz..Looks a hell of a lot better !...

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View HorizontalMike's profile


7758 posts in 2940 days

#15 posted 05-28-2013 02:27 AM

Great job on the surface!

The white residue is a stable iron phosphate coating, a chemically changed surface that is rust resistant because the iron is chemically bound to the phosphate and NOT readily available to bind with Oxygen and begin rusting. After recoating/resurfacing as you have, the surface should now be less prone to flash rusting, though it will have/develop more of a gray cast and be a bit less shiny. That is where I use the JPW (Johnson’s Paste Wax). It brings up the shine and makes the surface much slicker once cured and buffed.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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