Best Joint For A Picture Frame???

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Forum topic by Brad posted 10-15-2008 06:29 AM 20140 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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132 posts in 3972 days

10-15-2008 06:29 AM

I’m building a ton of picture frames for my wife and I’m wondering what the best way to join the corners are. Any suggestions guys?

- Brad

-- Brad --

10 replies so far

View Brad's profile


132 posts in 3972 days

#1 posted 10-15-2008 06:30 AM

Oh the stock for the pictures is 3/4”x1”x20”

-- Brad --

View teenagewoodworker's profile


2727 posts in 3966 days

#2 posted 10-15-2008 12:13 PM

i would suggest a mitered bridle joint

Click for details

just go to the project page and it will show a close up of the joint. works wonders!

View lew's profile


12425 posts in 3954 days

#3 posted 10-15-2008 02:21 PM

Another similar joint from Denis’s suggestion would be a spline joint.

You indicated you were making a bunch of these. You could make a spline cutting jig so that the process could be a little faster.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View 8iowa's profile


1587 posts in 3959 days

#4 posted 10-15-2008 04:06 PM

Good comments here. I’ll add the importance of setting your miter gauge truly at 45 degrees. An accurate protractor is a good investment. Also, use a 60 or 80 tooth crosscut blade for smoother cuts and a stop block on an extension of your miter gauge to insure that opposite sides of the frame are exactly the same length.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10320 posts in 4250 days

#5 posted 10-15-2008 07:34 PM

A Half-lap is nice… but not as strong as the others mentioned… but, with Today’s glues, would be very good.

The Shakers used a COOL through mortise & tenon, which I think is really COOL…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: ... My Small Gallery:"

View Eric's profile


875 posts in 3982 days

#6 posted 10-16-2008 03:48 AM

Or mix it up! My very very first woodworking project was a butt-joint picture frame. The interior and exterior strips were stained, and the interior strip was natural. Despite all I’ve learned since then, I have to say it’s a mighty purty frame.

-- Eric at

View mineeds01's profile


1 post in 3547 days

#7 posted 03-26-2009 07:05 AM

If you people who needs services on Picture frames, please post your request on and providers will post their bids on your needs.

Seattle Picture Framing - Get Bids & Save | MiNeeds

View jeh412's profile


129 posts in 3574 days

#8 posted 03-26-2009 03:12 PM

I build custom frames for a local shop—more than 100 a year—and use just a good, accurate miter and Titebond II. Some of the frames have gone as large as 36×60 inches (those were 2 1/4 inch, 7/8 inch thick stock) and I haven’t had a joint fail yet. Make sure your miters are accurate and tight and use a good clamp. I use Merle Adjustable Clamps.

-- John, co-owner Sawdust 'n Stitches

View GaryK's profile


10262 posts in 4186 days

#9 posted 03-26-2009 03:16 PM

Spilned miter. Quick and easy but very strong!

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View designeratheart's profile


8 posts in 2065 days

#10 posted 04-16-2013 12:11 AM

This is all WONDERFUL information. Thank you all. As I am new to this, I need all the help I can get! I was wondering which joint to choose and master for my frames. I guess I will have to play with all of these and see which one I like best.

If I use a miter with glue and I plan on shipping the frame, should I add any additional support at the joint? I saw somewhere that you could use a slice of dowel in a drilled out hole – after the glue dries – to add support. Knowing that the frame will be shipped across country (family lives there and most of my frames will be gifts) do you feel this would be beneficial or a waste of my time? Or are there other suggestions that would be better?

-- Smile! It makes the day so much better!

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