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Forum topic by Sirgreggins posted 425 days ago 755 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sirgreggins

292 posts in 822 days


425 days ago

I just got a Craftsman Flex Drive table saw for free a few weeks ago and the 1 1/6hp motor bogs down pretty good when cutting 2×4’s. I have a 40 tooth blade on there now. Will a 24 tooth blade make a big difference or is this something i’ll have to live with? Just curious what you guys do in these situations.


15 replies so far

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toolie

1714 posts in 1215 days


#1 posted 425 days ago

Will a 24 tooth blade make a big difference

i believe it will help, at the expense of cut quality. the loss of power may be a function of the flex drive cable beginning to fail. i’ve only used one once and was glad that i will probably never have to use one again.

regarding what to do in this situation, start planning on a new TS. those flex drives were a good idea that apparently didn’t enjoy the reliability of their belt driven brethren.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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JamesT

102 posts in 498 days


#2 posted 425 days ago

A very sharp thin kerf 24 tooth should help on rip cuts and a 40-60 tooth TK for cross cuts. If you want to stick with just one blade, I would recommend a 50 tooth thin kerf combination blade. However, don’t expect too much of an improvement with the limited horsepower.

-- Jim from Doniphan

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bandit571

6556 posts in 1270 days


#3 posted 425 days ago

Found out I like my saws a little underpowered. Too much power can drive a kick back through a wall.

Mine, IF it gets into a pre-kick back bind, the saw bogs down to a stop. I can shut it off, and clear the bind.

Ripping with 24-28 teeth, cross cuts with either a 40, or a 60 tooth. No, I don’t have thin kerf blades.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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Loren

7169 posts in 2234 days


#4 posted 425 days ago

A sharp blade, especially a thin kerf one will.

This blade at auction would make a difference and you
could keep it when/if you upgrade to a nicer saw.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Forrest-Woodworker-2-10-Table-Saw-Blade-Just-Sharpened-/121109414823?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c32af03a7

Also, try raising the blade up higher.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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PaulJerome

45 posts in 1620 days


#5 posted 425 days ago

Rip it to rough width with a 24 tooth and then to final with the 40. Just shave the last 1/32 off.

-- Paul, Central Illinois

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rockindavan

283 posts in 1222 days


#6 posted 425 days ago

You can cut half way through in one pass, with the fence set 1/32 bigger than you want. Then set the fence to your measurement and cut the rest of the way through. I have to do this with my benchtop saw, especially with hardwoods.

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Sirgreggins

292 posts in 822 days


#7 posted 424 days ago

thanks for the advice guys. do you have a “minimum” horsepower threshold? just curious.

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Tedstor

1369 posts in 1219 days


#8 posted 424 days ago

Well first off, I’ll say that Craftsman has a tendency to “over-state” the HP ratings of their machines. I can’t speak for the flex drive model as I have little knowledge of that product, but my Craftsman 113 saw is advertised as 3 hp. No way in hell its anything close to 3hp. My 120v circuit wouldn’t support it.
My best estimate would put my saw in the 1.25ish catagory. I haven’t cut any hardwood over 5/4 with it, but it cut through that without issue. But My saw would easily rip a 2X4 with any general purpose or rip blade.

Anyway, with that said, I think 1.25hp would be the minimum power I’d want.

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Sirgreggins

292 posts in 822 days


#9 posted 424 days ago

This saw is being sold near me and the guy would be willing to sell it for $250. i dont really believe the 3hp but is this significantly more powerful than the 1 hp one i have now?

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dschlic1

149 posts in 556 days


#10 posted 424 days ago

From the picture it looks like a 113 model. The motor is 1.5 Hp belt driven. I have one and it is a good saw. However $250 is too much. Probably worth about half that much. I paid $90 but the saw need some TLC.

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toolie

1714 posts in 1215 days


#11 posted 424 days ago

not really. that saw is between 1 and 1.5 hp (at best). it’s worth between $100 and 200 (more like 100 and 150, actually) if complete. emerson built 10”CI TS with webbed CI extension wings. looks to have an upgraded version of the OEM fence that gets a great deal of bad press. don’t see the splitter/blade guard, which is ~ $50 -100. good basic TS that will do whatever a hobbyist needs to do. i have two similar saws, one with a 1 hp motor, the other with a 1 1/2 hp motor. they will both rip 8/4 hardwoods with the appropriate blade.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Sirgreggins

292 posts in 822 days


#12 posted 424 days ago

i’m waiting for my 24 tooth marples blade to come in. i will just use that blade and see how it goes. i also bought the Delta T2 for it so once i get those 2 on there it should be better. i guess i fell into Craftsmans’ marketing of the the 3hp. i’ll stick with my free flex drive saw

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Rick M.

3747 posts in 966 days


#13 posted 424 days ago

If ripping, an actual rip blade will cut much easier than a combo or general purpose blade.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

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Sirgreggins

292 posts in 822 days


#14 posted 424 days ago

i will just have to be a blade changer for a while :-)

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unbob

348 posts in 490 days


#15 posted 423 days ago

I have had my worst incidents cutting 2X4s on an underpowered saw.
First, I have not seen a straight 2X4 in years, they export those and sell you the crap.
When a saw bogs down, thats a warning sign. The blade and the wood is getting hot, causing even worse problems such as side loading the blade. Blades are not designed for a side load, they must be free cutting with no bog down.
If one does not have a jointer, hand plane the board to sit flat on the saw, and true an edge for the fence.
Even a 1 1/2 hp saw can kick back hard, or explode the wood sending it out like shrapnel.
Folks, please be careful!

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