LumberJocks

Finishing quandery - what would you do?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by 404 - Not Found posted 05-13-2013 09:49 PM 765 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1624 days


05-13-2013 09:49 PM

I’m nearly at a point where I can begin spraying my latest project. I know exactly the order in which this will be done apart from two doors with full length mirrors.
This is the first time I’ve made doors in this particular style, offset shoulders hold the mirror at the back with bolection mouldings pinned at the front to hold the mirror and backing panel.

The choices are – spray the doors, spray the mouldings, fit the mirror, apply the mouldings.
or
fit the mirror, apply the mouldings, mask the mirror, spray the door with mouldings in place.

The latter gives room to join the sections of moulding seamlessly and fill the pin holes, but will probably be messier to repair if the mirror ever breaks, the first choice is probably easier to do but might not go together as well.

What would you do?


16 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112093 posts in 2232 days


#1 posted 05-13-2013 10:03 PM

I would fit the mirror ,remove it and then spray and then install mirror after it’s dry.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View nailbanger2's profile

nailbanger2

962 posts in 1799 days


#2 posted 05-13-2013 10:13 PM

Jim, I think he’s saying he can’t remove the mirror. I don’t know what bolection mouldings are, but I would spray before the mirror goes in. There is always some little spot that doesn’t get covered, and what about the reflection of raw wood? Just my 2 cents.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1979 posts in 932 days


#3 posted 05-13-2013 10:22 PM

+1 a1Jim....I’d dry fit everything (mirror in place) to double check fit. Finish door and molding separately. Then reassemble. You may not need to fill in the pin holes, as they may not be that noticeable. Are you using 23 gauge pins ?....To me masking off the mirror and trying to spray and finish sand between coats would make me leary of breaking it….From the picture you posted, looks to be a beautiful door

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1624 days


#4 posted 05-13-2013 10:36 PM

This is what I’m referring to as a bolection moulding, there is probably another name for it in the US.

I’m hesitant on this because the joins indicated between the arched section and straight vertical pieces are bevelled back at 45° and I want them to meet without too much of a visible join. If the mouldings are put in before spraying, they can be pinned and siliconed into place and the joint sanded, if the mouldings are fitted after spraying, I can’t be guaranteed as good a fit.

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1979 posts in 932 days


#5 posted 05-13-2013 10:57 PM

Renners...Bolection moulding a.k.a rabbeted panel molding.

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112093 posts in 2232 days


#6 posted 05-13-2013 11:19 PM

Nice drawing, If you are installing the molding with small splines or small biscuits then I would still dry fit the mirror and molding, then finish the frame and molding separately then install them. If your going to shoot the molding in with 23 gauge pins. I think I would still do pre- finish everything and do touch up where it’s been nailed in

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4925 posts in 1232 days


#7 posted 05-13-2013 11:51 PM

Install everything and mask off the mirror.

Done.

View Quixote's profile

Quixote

206 posts in 2293 days


#8 posted 05-14-2013 12:11 AM

What are your spraying? Stain and clear, or some sort of color?

I agree with Nailbanger about the edge reflection of the glass for the underside of your retainer molding, bolection thing. If you are just applying some form of clear, then I would suggest either applying some quick clear finish to the underside of the bolection retainer, assemble the project for great fit, then tape off the mirror glass and complete the finish spray. Or paint, or tape the underside of the retainer black to eliminate the concern.

I also noticed you mentioned “Silicone”, for hiding the joints. my experience with silicone is that most finishes will not stick to a “siliconed” surface, so I might suggest spraying the bolection separately, and apply your seam sealer material after the finishing process…

-- I don't make sawdust...I produce vast quantities of "Micro Mulch."

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1979 posts in 932 days


#9 posted 05-14-2013 12:31 AM

An unfortunate inconvenience both to finish or replace the mirror.

Too bad that you couldn’t incorporate a molding in the backside. Install your Bolection moulding and finish the door, insert the mirror, insert the backer, and install a molding as indicated in red in a manner that can be easily removed if needed. Sorry for my crude interpretation of your drawing. Best of luck in your decision. Beautiful wood and elegant design you have

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View nailbanger2's profile

nailbanger2

962 posts in 1799 days


#10 posted 05-14-2013 01:06 PM

Renners, whatever you end up doing, thank you for asking the question as I get to see how others would approach this.

Also, I agree with above, the door will look great when you are done.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

View DS's profile

DS

2131 posts in 1076 days


#11 posted 05-14-2013 10:10 PM

I typically would have the mirror and backer inserted into the rabbit from the backside.

Permanently attach a 1/2 round molding to the face of the frame, prefinish, then add mirror clips, or, a backside molding to capture the mirror and backer. If the mirror breaks, you’ll want an easy way to replace it.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View DS's profile

DS

2131 posts in 1076 days


#12 posted 05-14-2013 10:15 PM

Or possibly a variation on this theme…

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1979 posts in 932 days


#13 posted 05-14-2013 10:18 PM

DS...thank you for a refinement of a possible solution of the backside molding (stop) than what I tried in my earlier post. Your 1/4 round looks a lot better than my red rectangle…

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1979 posts in 932 days


#14 posted 05-14-2013 11:44 PM

+1James...Nice alternative to a 1/4 round as posted by DS, and definitely an improvement over my red rectangle

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1624 days


#15 posted 05-14-2013 11:51 PM

With hindsight, I agree, inserting the mirror from the back would make more sense, doesn’t help on this occasion as the doors are already made. I’ve had practice today though putting the mouldings on four smaller doors with wood panels. I am convinced the only way I’ll be happy with this job is is to mask the mirror, there’s just too much chance of the mouldings not joining properly otherwise.

showing 1 through 15 of 16 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase