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Why would I want a bandsaw fence??

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Forum topic by Tedstor posted 467 days ago 1254 views 4 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tedstor

1369 posts in 1259 days


467 days ago

I already own a table saw. So if I want to cut something in a straight line, I used my TS.
I also have a bandsaw. Specifically, a “14 Ridgid (Orange). I use it when I want to cut something into a curvy shape. I have, on a few occasions, resawn a few boards. But I used a shopmade resaw jig that I clamped to the BS table.

That said, why are bandsaw fences considered a “must have”?? I assume that most bandsaw owners probably already own a table saw. However, I guess I could see why a fence might be important for someone that didn’t have a tablesaw. So I guess my specific question would be:
”’Why would a TS owner want a fence on their BS”?


16 replies so far

View Brandon's profile

Brandon

4138 posts in 1578 days


#1 posted 467 days ago

For resawing, or for those who only have a bandsaw and not a TS (they exist, especially among some hand tool enthusiasts). Resawing on a bandsaw is often preferred to doing it on a TS because the kerf of the blade doesn’t waste as much material and because the BS can saw a much thicker piece of lumber in one pass than a TS could do in multiple passes. That said, YOU may not have need for one.

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7394 posts in 2274 days


#2 posted 467 days ago

They are useful for cutting tenons and dovetails, not to
mention common shop tasks like neatly notching panel
corners…. and of course there is the ripping of narrow
strips and delicate materials that would be wrecked
by the table saw.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View The Box Whisperer's profile

The Box Whisperer

553 posts in 696 days


#3 posted 467 days ago

One reason I could think of, and I dont own a bandsaw so what do I really know? When I cut out the sides of step stools, Its like cutting to top corner quarter of the board out, if that makes sense. Im not ripping or crosscutting through the whole thing, just partially, then stopping, resetting the other side of the cut, etc. I dont want to cut the whole way through the line with a TS, because the curved blade will go too deep on one side, leaving my corner cut out with little cross cuts. Last time I made some I cut 95% with a TS and used a jigsaw to finish the cuts, keeping them square. If I had a bandsaw with a fence, I would have used that for the entire cut, rather then switching tools.

Sorry for long rant, hope it makes sense!

EDIT: Loren, you got in 3 words what took me one whole rant. Well done.

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

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Tedstor

1369 posts in 1259 days


#4 posted 467 days ago

Is a fence better for resawing, than one of these??:

View The Box Whisperer's profile

The Box Whisperer

553 posts in 696 days


#5 posted 467 days ago

I dont know, thats a pretty sweet jig. My way would be to cover all my options and make both!

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

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Tedstor

1369 posts in 1259 days


#6 posted 467 days ago

Loren- I forgot all about the joinery. I typically use my TS for those. But I could see how a BS could be preferred by some.
And true- the BS is not as ‘traumatic’ as a TS. Delicate operations are not a strong point of a TS.

View wbrisett's profile

wbrisett

133 posts in 975 days


#7 posted 467 days ago

Tedstor: I like the fence on my bandsaw. Once I got everything setup, I can resaw things and now pretty accurately that they are the size I want and I do think it’s easier than the resaw jig you show. However, there are advantages to that method (and I’ve used that method as well). I just find once I setup the fence for the drift of the blade, things seem to go much faster for me than a resaw jig.

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7394 posts in 2274 days


#8 posted 466 days ago

1/2 blades are always going to be prone to drift and
deflection in deep cuts, so arguably the single-point fence
is a better way to do it with 1/2” or narrower blades.

A real resaw machine takes wider blades (sometimes
much wider) and because of this the fence can be
set-and-forget to some extent. As these wide
blades dull they cut slower and burn, but they
don’t deflect and drift as readily.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View GT350's profile

GT350

265 posts in 608 days


#9 posted 466 days ago

I use the fence on my bandsaw for things like cutting tenons especially the edges. There are a lot of small projects that you can use the fence for like that that don’t do well on the tablesaw. It’s one of this things that you don’t realize how much you will use it until you have it. I made mine, it took a little bit of plywood, a couple of pieces of angle iron for the rails and a few bolts so it cost me very little.
Mike

View NormG's profile

NormG

4088 posts in 1630 days


#10 posted 466 days ago

Good question and good remarks. I fine it handy for all of the above and simpler for some tasks than setting the TS up

-- Norman

View taoist's profile

taoist

110 posts in 1117 days


#11 posted 466 days ago

I purchased a Magswitch feather board a couple of years ago because I need one and because I was intrigued by the other things you could do with the magnets. Last year Magswitch came out with a resaw fence for about 25.00 that uses the magnets and the feather board base. That’s a lot cheaper than a Carter mag fence for my BS. There are just so many other options that are available with a BS over a TS.
If I was you, I would have a resaw fence in addition to the the feather board type device you posted in the pic.

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

775 posts in 943 days


#12 posted 466 days ago

A fence is definitely superior to a resaw finger for resawing operations. The finger is supposed to allow for steering to compensate for drift but that steering ability also results the loss of the ability to cut in a perfectly straight line. There’s too much room for human error.

A properly tuned bandsaw with a sharp 3 TPI blade is capable of resawing with enough precision to cut veneer if desired. This means during resaw operations, it’s usually possible to cut a thin slice off a 6” wide board and pass the board across the jointer to ready the face for the second cut.

Rather than me going through a long explanation I’ll just post the link I found in another thread on this forum.

Tuning the Bandsaw

That one is an old article. There’s a newer one out in Fine Woodworking now by the same author I believe but I don’t think it’s much different.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

989 posts in 761 days


#13 posted 466 days ago

I do not own a table saw. In an ideal world would have both decent band saw & table saw they excel at what designed to do!

Next to riser kits & dust collection, aftermarket fence and or miter gauge popular optional buy for BS owners that need them.

My bandsaw came with a decent fence & miter gauge. No, do not use my fence for every cut same true for miter gauge. Besides my fence, use a homemade sled to resaw. Have sleds for cutting pen blanks square or on diagonal. Made my own circle cutting jig, but often cut bowl blanks free hand.

Even with all my homemade jigs & sleds glad my BS came with a fence from the factory!

-- Bill

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distrbd

1058 posts in 1073 days


#14 posted 466 days ago

I made this fence for my bandsaw copying from the youtube made by Tom Casper American woodworker’s editor ,it is easy to make and dead accurate.all you need is a piece of MDF,an old mitre gauge,some scrap pieces of wood.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpbwH9510MY

-- Ken from Ontario

View Nicky's profile

Nicky

636 posts in 2718 days


#15 posted 466 days ago

Lots of good information here.

I use my bandsaw fence to rip boards (among other things mentioned already)

The fence is useful when I rip rough lumber, especially when the board is not flat, or the grain is a bit wild. This is a safer alternative then my tablesaw.

-- Nicky

showing 1 through 15 of 16 replies

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