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Installing a router lift on a 38*72" table top

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Forum topic by MC73 posted 05-10-2013 03:37 PM 755 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MC73

26 posts in 1306 days


05-10-2013 03:37 PM

I have a new question for you gurus. I added a 2nd 3/4 plywood so now I have 1.5” tabletop. Hope that will be enough and that I’ll be able to move without any help from my Boss (wife)
My question is how far from the lower right corner should I install a router and how far from the 38” right margin should I go inside.

I don’t know how to design it so you can have a visual, but I’m sure you understand me.

Thank you for your help


4 replies so far

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mbs

1606 posts in 2400 days


#1 posted 05-10-2013 05:22 PM

I’m not sure why you want a table that big. sometime bigger isn’t better because it’s harder to keep the stock flat against the table the bigger the table is. you may be better off supporting long stock with portable rollers.

My router bit is 12” from the center of the router bit. That is good enough for me.

My table is 1.75 thick melamine with reinforced angle iron underneath the router and it sagged over time. I would beef up the bottom side of the table with angle iron to minimize the dipping of the table from the weight of the router.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

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a1Jim

115202 posts in 3037 days


#2 posted 05-10-2013 05:24 PM

I have mine close to center both ways.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Straightlines

70 posts in 1354 days


#3 posted 05-10-2013 05:53 PM

@MC73 This is a good question that I think is well addressed, w/ a solution I’m likely to use, in a Fine Woodworking video about a Knock Down Router table. Unless you’re using the very stable Baltic birch plywd., I suggest you instead use MDF because plywd tends to warp, even if it’s laminated.

In this video, the author places his bit closer to one end than the other because he thinks that controlling the workpiece after the cut is more important than before. To me, like a1Jim, I see the support needs as equal, but I have not done much router table work. As far as front to back positioning, I have seen this is most relevant to whether one uses any sort of fence positioning jig, like the Incra Jig, or not—the jigs need a fair amount of space behind the fence, but this need bumps up against work table support in front of the fence, and both locations need more than anything to remain ergonomic for the operator. One last critical piece to the puzzle is the inclusion and placement of a miter slot relative to the bit, and any T-slots/tracks you add to the top. To whit, Bench Dog has a great combo T-track/miter track that gets added to the front edge of the table.

Please keep us posted.

-- Cut twice, measure once ... DOH!

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MC73

26 posts in 1306 days


#4 posted 05-10-2013 07:45 PM

Sorry I was not the clear.

I am using this table for all the woodworking. One end (right) I’ll have the router and at the other end I’ll have a vise. Between I’ll do my working. Is a folding table. Top is getting off in fall and back on in spring. Base collapses and put aside in the 2 car garage. Size after folding is about 7” by 60” plus the tabletop behind it (see my previous msg about a folding table.) So this is not ONLY a router table. I’ll post some pictures when done.
I’m an beginner in woodworking and I want to use the little space I have as much as I can.
Thank you Straightlines for the link.

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