RUST RUST am I doing something wrong????

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Forum topic by Shawn Masterson posted 05-10-2013 03:04 PM 1353 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Shawn Masterson

1325 posts in 1944 days

05-10-2013 03:04 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tip question trick plane jointer tablesaw refurbishing sanding

to start, I live in northern Indiana. Every year I end up starting the same processes sand and wax all my CI tops. I have tried wax, sprays, and blankets. and I still end up with rust. There a few days in the spring where every thing made of metal sweats, because of the shop being cold and the air being hot. my shop is 26×30 the walls are insulated but the ceiling is not, I never got to it and I heat with wood. the last few years I have been working 6/10’s and shop time is limited. and my tools have some sit time. on the jointer and TS I cover them with heavy moving blankets and that seems to help, but my 20” surface planer (new to me last fall) was the worst even with the blanket, it looked like it had been rained on.

any advise is great thanks

12 replies so far

View Straightbowed's profile


717 posts in 2293 days

#1 posted 05-10-2013 03:16 PM

I just went ahead and started oiling then wiping it off, I did find something that works real good forgot the name but when I go out I will send you a message but my jointer I sprayed with shellac stopped rusting completely my tablesaw I use mothers rim compound or whatever it’s called but the shellac really works great, I think it’s a series of waxing many times and finally the metal soaks enough up that it finally quits rusting my tablesaw use to rust bad but it finally quit after 50 coats of 20 different things, my shop is not insulated or heated dont get out much in the winter but in the winter I spend alot of time doing PM’s on my equipment getiing it ready for the spring addiction bad bad bad cravings all winter long

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View Woodmaster1's profile


957 posts in 2582 days

#2 posted 05-10-2013 03:31 PM

I live 80miles east of you and have not had a rust problem yet. I use Johnson’s paste wax twice a year. My garage is not insulated or heated yet.

View 47phord's profile


182 posts in 2232 days

#3 posted 05-12-2013 05:21 PM

Have you tried running a dehumidifier (or two)? When you say you heat with wood, do you mean like a wood stove? If so, you are probably pulling in a lot of outside air (the fire has to get oxygen from somewhere), and getting a lot of air turnover like that can cause moisture problems; I don’t have a real good solution to that, though insulating your ceiling would certainly help.

View kdc68's profile


2657 posts in 2272 days

#4 posted 05-12-2013 06:06 PM

+1 dehumidifier…
IMO, think about insulating your ceiling too. Heat rises, and you may be losing a lot of heat through the un-insulated ceiling with colder moist air settling in the lower areas. You might have a more cozier shop in the winter with burning less wood….and with any luck, maybe closer to solve your rust issues

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View RonInOhio's profile


721 posts in 2859 days

#5 posted 05-12-2013 06:41 PM

Aside from dehumidification, you might want to try LPS 3 rust inhibitor. Its rated tops
for inhibiting rust.

Also in the winter if you are out there a lot heating, try some ventilation and insulating the ceiling.

Condensation could be dripping from the metal ceiling or just introducing high humitity levels into the shop. Its pretty common for metal buildings.

A spray on foam insulation might be the best option up there. Or ridgid foam sheets.

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1325 posts in 1944 days

#6 posted 05-12-2013 07:09 PM

the walls and ceiling are OSB. The only time I have troubles is during the season change when the temps are 30 at night and 75 in the day

View Sanity's profile


174 posts in 2685 days

#7 posted 05-13-2013 03:00 PM

I live in Ohio. My 2 car garage is my workshop and it has no heating or air conditioning. I tried paste wax when I first bought a table saw and had a film of rust forming on the cast iron surface within a couple of weeks. I then switched to Boeshield T-9, which worked reasonably well provided I put on a thick coat each time I used the saw. After reading an article in FWW about rust prevention, I switched to CRC Industrial 3-36. Once again I wipe on a generous coat after using my machines and so far it is working very well, and is by far the best solution I have tried to the problem of corrosion. I buy it from Grainger’s.

-- Stuart

View JayT's profile


5623 posts in 2206 days

#8 posted 05-13-2013 03:08 PM

Stuart, I’m assuming since you are happy with it, the CRC 3-36 doesn’t cause any problems with applying finishes later. Are you using the aerosol or the liquid?

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

View kreitzm's profile


22 posts in 1968 days

#9 posted 05-13-2013 03:15 PM

I live in Ohio too and had some trouble this year. Then I just started covering my table saw, bandsaw and drill press tables with old rags I used to wipe my hands off. They have W-D40 and 3 & 1 oil and even some motor oil impregnated in them. When I started that, the rust stayed away and hasn’t come back yet. I cover them after every use now. I did later get some Johnson’s Paste Wax and some Slip-It (wouldn’t recommend) and applied that to the surfaces as well.

View RonInOhio's profile


721 posts in 2859 days

#10 posted 05-13-2013 03:23 PM

In my post above, I inadvertantly recommended LPS 3. What I actually meant was the CRC Industrial 3-36.
A study was done by a woodworking magazine (Fine Woodworking ?)using a bunch of rust inhibitors. The CRC 3-36 came out on top out of all of them.

View Knothead62's profile


2584 posts in 2956 days

#11 posted 05-14-2013 07:40 PM

The blanket will attract moisture. I saw a fellow take a fairly new shotgun out of a fleece line gun case. Looked like it had measles. Clean and oil periodically.

View Tennessee's profile


2873 posts in 2510 days

#12 posted 05-14-2013 07:47 PM

I used to suffer the same thing years ago when I lived in NE Pennsylvania and heated with wood. After a few hours, all your machinery gets warm. When you stop, the fire dies and the moisture starts to fill the now low humidity shop. (Wood burners burn dry, kerosene and natural gas add moisture)
The moisture needs something to stick to, so the nice warm cast iron is a great place for it to land. The result is rust. I also used Johnson’s paste wax since I didn’t want to introduce anything with silicone. It kept it at bay, but didnt stop it 100%

-- Tsunami Guitars and Custom Woodworking, Cleveland, TN

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