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Best Router Bit for hogging out material?

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Forum topic by ToddJB posted 476 days ago 1373 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ToddJB

1989 posts in 763 days


476 days ago

I’m getting ready to build some wall benches and I’m going to be using material I have on hand. Which means 4×6’s for legs and 2×4’s for cross beams. I’d like to cut out notches out of the inside corners of the 4×6’s for the 2X4’s to rest in. So I need to hog out a bunch of wood up to 1.5” deep. What is your preferred bit for such an activity?

Links appreciated ;)

Note: Is it called a Mortise if it’s open on two sides (the top and side) or is that just a notch?

-- I came - I sawed - I over-built


18 replies so far

View crank49's profile

crank49

3378 posts in 1603 days


#1 posted 476 days ago

You mean a lap joint?
I hog those out with my circular saw, then hammer, and finally clean it up with a chisel.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/skill-builder/0,,211880,00.html

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Greg D's profile

Greg D

199 posts in 584 days


#2 posted 476 days ago

Skillsaw & chisel, or router with a flat bottom dado bit or bowl bit. If your cutting the 4×6 to fit the 2×4 in its a lap joint. If you dap bother pieces its a half lap.

Good luck

-- Greg D, Cen. CA, "Keep it on the Level, Do it Right the First Time!"

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10737 posts in 1322 days


#3 posted 475 days ago

Dado blades on a tablesaw? If I understand the joint you are after.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2709 posts in 1209 days


#4 posted 475 days ago

Dado set to rough out most of the material, router and any straight to finish it up.
Also, using a forstner with depth stop to hog out the waste works well too.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2491 posts in 984 days


#5 posted 475 days ago

Routers are not the best tool for hogging out a lot of material as you can only take small bites w/ each pass. If you would be a little more specific info about the joint you intend to make you will get better feedback.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View ToddJB's profile

ToddJB

1989 posts in 763 days


#6 posted 475 days ago

Sorry, I don’t think I was describing what I was envisioning very well. I don’t think a lap joint is what I’m looking for.

Here’s a pic (that is NOT to scale):

Would you still try to use a skillsaw or dados?

-- I came - I sawed - I over-built

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10737 posts in 1322 days


#7 posted 475 days ago

Skilsaw/ dados won’t help there. I’d use a forstner or spade bit in drillpress (hand drill will work also) and then its chisel and mallet time.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

5550 posts in 2061 days


#8 posted 475 days ago

I’d do the majority with a forstner bit in a press and clean up with a chisel.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View ToddJB's profile

ToddJB

1989 posts in 763 days


#9 posted 475 days ago

Perfect. That totally makes sense. Thank you, Sirs.

And Gene, G.K. Chesterton, in my opinion, has some the best quotes out there.

-- I came - I sawed - I over-built

View ToddJB's profile

ToddJB

1989 posts in 763 days


#10 posted 475 days ago

Oh, and by the way, is there a name for this type of joint?

-- I came - I sawed - I over-built

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2491 posts in 984 days


#11 posted 475 days ago

I’d do the majority with a forstner bit in a press and clean up with a chisel

Exactly how I would do it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View reedwood's profile (online now)

reedwood

869 posts in 1308 days


#12 posted 475 days ago

a few ideas came to mind:

Why are you using 4×6 legs? they’re HUGE! Any chance you could rip them down to a 4×4 on your table saw?
They don’t really add much structurally and they look too big. You end up with a free 2×4 too.

If you rabbeted out the whole back side – 1 1/2×3 1/2” and screwed your end rails to the front/ back rails, it would be so much easier using a skill saw and a speed square. Multiple cuts 1/4” apart, then chisel/ plane it out.

There’s a better way…..Check this out - I cheated on my 10 long MITRE stand 4×4 legs. (see workshop)

I ripped 6 – 36” – 4×4 legs, made of fir, in half. I cut 3 1/2” off the back half for the top rail and 4 1/4” for the middle 3/4” shelf rail. I glued the same halves back together and you can’t even tell – no time consuming 2×4 dadoes that are too loose or too tight. Prebuild your frames and assemble upside down… takes half the time!

With 6 legs, that’s 12 dadoes I didn’t have to do. Huge time saver and the joints are perfectly tight because they were cut to length on a MITRE box while assembling. Much stronger too.

I also rounded over all the edges with a 1/4” router bit. Add a 2×2 inside for a screw rail to attach top.

Good luck!

-- Mark - I prefer the tumult of liberty to the quiet of servitude. - Malo periculosam

View ToddJB's profile

ToddJB

1989 posts in 763 days


#13 posted 475 days ago

Thanks for the ideas, Mark!

-- I came - I sawed - I over-built

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1483 days


#14 posted 475 days ago

Please permit me two irrelevancies:

1. I’m in on the Chesterton fan club.

2. Thank you Todd for the fascinating optical illusion (or “delusion” as I friend of mine likes to say). Stare at it for a few minutes and you’ll likely see it morph into something even Todd can’t build!

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Loren's profile

Loren

7427 posts in 2280 days


#15 posted 475 days ago

I usually saw and chisel such notches out by hand. It’s good practice with
hand tools and won’t take too long in soft woods.

Any standard straight router bit with a 1/2” shack will serve okay
for hogging this material. You might want to make a template
out of 1/4” material and use a guide bushing.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

showing 1 through 15 of 18 replies

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