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Face Gluing Phenolic Plywood

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Forum topic by sIKE posted 10-13-2008 04:24 AM 4072 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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sIKE

1271 posts in 2409 days


10-13-2008 04:24 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question phenolic

I am very interested in using this for the top on my router cabinet. However I am wondering about face gluing this material. To make the top as per plan, I need to glue one piece of 3/4” ply (the phenolic ply) to a 1/2” sheet. I am wondering how well this is going to work.

I have been thinking of a couple of different approaches:

1) Scuff the glue side and using TB III

2) Contact Cement (aka like a laminate on to MDF)

Will either of these approaches work, or are there any other suggestions?

Thanks!

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"


7 replies so far

View Karson's profile

Karson

34876 posts in 3056 days


#1 posted 10-13-2008 04:31 AM

Sand completly through the phenolic ply on the side to get the 1/2” sheet.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View daltxguy's profile

daltxguy

1373 posts in 2569 days


#2 posted 10-13-2008 04:51 AM

If I understand Karson correctly, you have to sand off the phenolic ply in order to glue it..but then I wonder, why use phenolic ply in the first place? I made my top using 3/4” ply + 1/4” hardboard, edge laminated with oak and then laminated plastic ( formica) top and bottom using contact cement. This was from the Woodsmith plan and I’ve had no regrets

-- If you can't joint it, bead it!

View sIKE's profile

sIKE

1271 posts in 2409 days


#3 posted 10-13-2008 05:10 AM

The Phenolic coating is on both sides. So, the side I wish to glue I would remove the phenolic coating.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View sIKE's profile

sIKE

1271 posts in 2409 days


#4 posted 10-13-2008 07:23 PM

My only concern is taking the Phenolic off of the board will reduce thickness, does anyone see this being an issue?

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View Lee A. Jesberger's profile

Lee A. Jesberger

6648 posts in 2635 days


#5 posted 10-14-2008 06:59 PM

Hi sIKE;

Contact cement will stick the parts well, but always remains flexible. That might be a problem.

Tite Bond makes a glue for Melamine. That might work on Phenolic surfaces as well.

http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=ProductCategoryTB.asp?prodcat=1

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5364 posts in 2241 days


#6 posted 10-14-2008 10:09 PM

When I made my router top ,I wanted a thick one quite big,so I glued some mdf together screwing them in all directions through the top til the glue dried then removed the scrwews this is better than any clamps then went over the top and bottom with melamine which I cur slightly oversize then routed the edges worked greaqt.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Tim Pursell's profile

Tim Pursell

494 posts in 2438 days


#7 posted 10-14-2008 11:15 PM

I use a lot of phenolic to make molds for poured stone. We use Gorilla glue any time we have to face glue to it. I rough it up with 60 grit & screw thru both pieces from the back side. Nothing else will bond phenolic ply together. Epoxy & every other glue we’ve tried will right peel off. Thats why I use a chunk of phenolic under all my glue ups. Slide an old chisel along the surface & any glue slides right off. I’ve used the same piece of phenolic 50-60 times for glue ups & still used it to make a new mold. If you can’t screw from the backside, sand off the phenolic coating & use any glue you would on “normal” plywood.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/tpursell?ref=si_shop

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