LumberJocks

WoodRiver V3 #5 Hand Plane Help

  • Advertise with us

« back to Hand Tools forum

Forum topic by Peteyb posted 05-07-2013 02:54 PM 1493 views 0 times favorited 40 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Peteyb's profile

Peteyb

106 posts in 1301 days


05-07-2013 02:54 PM

Topic tags/keywords: woodriver hand plane v3 5

I just bought this thing last night.

This is the first hand plane that I have ever bought. I am buying it to flatten a table top for a changing table/dresser that I am working on right now.

I took it out last night and wiped all the oil off of it and then sharpened the blade. Put it all back together but was not getting the results that I wanted. As it was going along and then would catch and dig into the wood. I am using a test piece before I do it on the top.

So my question is what am I doing wrong? Is it my technique, blade not sharp, or do I not have something set up right? Also I should say that the wood I am working with is Maple.

Pete


40 replies so far

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

4451 posts in 1074 days


#1 posted 05-07-2013 03:00 PM

I am far from the worlds leading expert on hand plane use…. but reading the wood grain and planning in the “uphill” direction may help you.

The tricky part comes when the grain changes in the middle of the board.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Don W's profile

Don W

15521 posts in 1313 days


#2 posted 05-07-2013 03:03 PM

read this and see if it helps

it sounds like your mouth opening may be set to wide, or your iron is cutting to deep, or you’re not really sharp, or some combination of the 3.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View JayT's profile

JayT

2611 posts in 957 days


#3 posted 05-07-2013 03:13 PM

Wood River planes tend to have a good reputation, but it will still need fettled before becoming a good user. How much will depend on the individual plane, even ones that come off the line back to back will be slightly different and need different adjustments.

  • Flatten the back of the iron.
  • Make sure the blade is sharp.
  • Double check the fit of the frog to the sole and iron to the frog. Everything tight & square with absolutely no wobble or play.
  • Make sure the blade is really sharp, like able to shave the hair off your arm sharp.
  • Set the chipbreaker about 1/16 back from the cutting edge of the iron.
  • Take thinner passes
  • Is the blade sharp?
  • As ssnvet mentions, are you planing with the grain or against it? Try going the other way, the sound and feel will be totally different.
  • Practice, practice, practice—technique is important. It is just like any other skill, practicing the right technique will get you far. You shouldn’t expect to pick up your first plane and get professional results immediately.
  • Did I mention make sure the iron is sharp? Sharp solves a lot of issues and no matter how sharp you think it is, it can be better.

Edit: Don’s article is good and he definitely knows a lot more than me. +1 on checking the mouth opening.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View Don W's profile

Don W

15521 posts in 1313 days


#4 posted 05-07-2013 03:27 PM

I've got a tuning blog as well and JayT is right, most planes (except for mine of course) will need some tuning to get them just right. I do think you should be able to get some reasonable results first.

A few pictures of what the shaving looks like may give some clues as well.

And as to JayT point, sharp fixes everything. (getting the back of the iron flat and polished is part of “sharp”)

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View Peteyb's profile

Peteyb

106 posts in 1301 days


#5 posted 05-07-2013 03:46 PM

Looks like I need to go home and make sure to take it apart again and work on the blade some more to make sure it is sharp. I am working with the grain on the wood. I think that I also have to look at the frog and make sure that it is adjust right.

View JayT's profile

JayT

2611 posts in 957 days


#6 posted 05-07-2013 04:03 PM

I am working with the grain on the wood

To be clear, when we are talking about going with the grain, it is not a matter of along the grain or across, it is which direction along the grain. Most people who have not worked with hand planes or scrapers before do not realize that this will make a difference. I sure didn’t before learning to use them.

Once you have it resharpened, tuned and ready to go, try this. Plane two or three strokes down the long grain side of a board one direction, then switch and plane the same surface in the opposite direction (180 degrees). You will hear and feel a difference and know immediately which is with the grain or “uphill” as ssnvet termed it.

If you already knew this, sorry for the redundancy, but maybe someone else reading the thread did not. Good luck with your tune-up and let us know how it goes.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View rljatl's profile

rljatl

1 post in 631 days


#7 posted 05-07-2013 04:30 PM

Try putting a slight camber on the blade to prevent the corners from digging in.

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 1044 days


#8 posted 05-07-2013 05:33 PM

you can feel the grain sometimes take your hand and stroke the wood in opposite directions smoothest stroke is uphill but not always its takes alot of R & D to use a handplane, don’t give up just keep on planing they make quick work of small jobs, you will enjoy the results of handplaning how quick and simple it is to make a pc of wood glass smooth with a couple strokes, and they are great for the final fit of a project I love to use them along with my powertools

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View Tugboater78's profile

Tugboater78

1230 posts in 937 days


#9 posted 05-07-2013 07:58 PM

Ive been debating on getting their #7 sometime decent reviews, though i dont like supporting china. Would love a LN but ill have to pay off the house or car so i can throw a payment at it.

-- Justin - the tugboat woodworker - " nothing changed me like the first shnick from a well sharpened, decent hand plane"

View Peteyb's profile

Peteyb

106 posts in 1301 days


#10 posted 05-07-2013 08:23 PM

One other quick question? When I bought it I also had asked what I should get for stones. They said right now I could use a 1000/4000 stone to sharpen the blade. My question is should I be using even a finer grit to finish the blade off with?

View Don W's profile

Don W

15521 posts in 1313 days


#11 posted 05-07-2013 08:36 PM

I’d say yes. 4000 grit is not fine enough. You should be something in the range of 8000 grit or 2-3 micron sand paper.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View crank49's profile

crank49

3508 posts in 1717 days


#12 posted 05-07-2013 08:38 PM

If you have no experience sharpening, a guide would be most helpful.
I never got a trully sharp plane iron until I got a guide.

Your work piece must be completely stationary. If the support, table bench or whatever, is racking or moving at all you will not get good results.

Google “scary sharp” and read some of the resulting documentation.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View JayT's profile

JayT

2611 posts in 957 days


#13 posted 05-07-2013 09:03 PM

Yep, 4000 grit might be enough for a jack or scrub, but something finer is needed for a really good finish. I finish with a 6000 waterstone, then a strop. IIRC, a 6000 stone and 1500 wet/dry sandpaper are generally both about 2 microns and an 8000 stone and 2000 wet/dry are about 1.5.

Take that with a grain of salt, as the numbering is not necessarily consistent among manufacturers or rating scales, but it should get you close.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View Peteyb's profile

Peteyb

106 posts in 1301 days


#14 posted 05-08-2013 02:50 PM

Ok so I went and bought Veritas MK II Honing Guide and a 8000 water stone. So know I have a 1000, 4000, and 8,000 grit stones and the honing guide. So I went back to sharpening the blade last night and got it all back together. This time I really think that I did get the blade sharp.

Straightbowed: I tried what you were talking about with the grain and I did see a difference with the wood.

But it is still being a little difficult and and do still get some snip in the board. Here are pictures for the shavings and the throat of the plane.

So what am I doing wrong?

View Mark's profile

Mark

488 posts in 720 days


#15 posted 05-08-2013 03:02 PM

I’m no planning guru, but I’m thinkin’ your blade is set just a bit to deep. Your shavings should be quite a bit thinner. Am I right gents?

-- Mark

showing 1 through 15 of 40 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase