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Your thoughts on my crosscut sled design?

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Forum topic by Prometheus451 posted 05-06-2013 03:29 PM 1323 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Prometheus451

3 posts in 506 days


05-06-2013 03:29 PM

While designing my crosscut sled, I was worried about the ability to use various blades and bevels and keeping the zero clearance along the blade’s kerf. It would obviously become quite wallowed out over plenty of uses. I’d heard of taping a 1/4” piece of MDF to the bed and the fence to regain that zero clearance but it seems kind of slapdash on something you’ve worked hard to make look nice. I’m trying to come up with a design that has replaceable sacrificial pieces and I wanted to get opinions on what I’ve devised. Here is my first design. Can anyone come up with a fatal error I’ve made or a way to improve upon this? Has anyone come across a sled with this concept?


7 replies so far

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HorizontalMike

6939 posts in 1572 days


#1 posted 05-06-2013 03:50 PM

Please understand these are only observations:

  • The far fence is way too long. This limits the angle of any non-90degree cut.
  • The wood on the far fence, right at the blade area, is too thin. Bring it UP higher in order to strengthen this joiner. The entire sled depends on this small area to hold the sled together in the back once the blade has cut its channel.
  • I think you will find that the plastic cover running between fences will just get in the way and limit the useability of the sled.

Here is the one I built:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/57667

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View waho6o9's profile (online now)

waho6o9

4945 posts in 1235 days


#2 posted 05-06-2013 03:55 PM

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/83842

Fellow LJer Jake made a nice one as well, see link above.

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TheDane

3794 posts in 2321 days


#3 posted 05-06-2013 04:00 PM

Marc Adams has a video series running on FineWoodworking.com that addresses the use of different blades, bevels, etc. In a nutshell, he uses 1/4” MDF to form a sacrificial zero-clearance faces on the sled and fence. That way you use the same sled and just swap out the 1/4” MDF. Haven’t tried it, but it sounds like a good idea.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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Prometheus451

3 posts in 506 days


#4 posted 05-06-2013 04:20 PM

HorizontalMike, yours was one I’d seen previously browsing LJ’s and gotten the inspiration to add adjustable fences for miter cuts. I’ll definitely heed your advice since it seems to have been born out by experience building the exact thing I’m looking for. Thanks!

Waho6o9, I hadn’t seen that one but it looks great! I think I’ll take some ideas from his adjustable fences since it seems he can add a lot to them to make his sled really versatile, and in a tiny garage shop, versatility is a must in most jigs I build. Thanks!

TheDane, I saw that same video but I was just trying to come up with a more clever (read: prettier) solution. It may end up that that is the most practical solution though. Thanks for the tip!

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kdc68

1980 posts in 935 days


#5 posted 05-06-2013 09:34 PM

I have one similar to this. It is adjustable for different kerf blades. And can accommodate a dado blade and box joint jig

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/403/precisioncrosscutsled.pdf

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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Prometheus451

3 posts in 506 days


#6 posted 05-06-2013 11:39 PM

KDC68, whoah, I like the adjustable throat. Cool idea.

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kdc68

1980 posts in 935 days


#7 posted 05-06-2013 11:48 PM

Prometheus...I built mine using the less expensive Rockler’s flip stops and t-tracks versus the more expensive Kreg flip stop and t-tracks

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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