Joining sections of maple counter top

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Forum topic by Preserved posted 05-05-2013 10:41 AM 2360 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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11 posts in 2013 days

05-05-2013 10:41 AM

Topic tags/keywords: counter miter bolt edge grain

Hi Everyone,

I’m building a new kitchen counter top and would love some advice on joining the sections.

The top will be constructed of edge grain glued maple strips. I’ve built a top for our kitchen island and it turned out great! I’ve decided to build this is three sections (see attached photo) and I’m wondering the best way to join the three sections. My first thought was to just glue the sections together with TB3. Then I started thinking the overall span may be too much for the glue joints so now I’m thinking of using what I’m calling “miter bolts”. Does this sound like a good idea? Anything better?

Anyone have a miter bolt setup they really like?

Thanks for your help.


7 replies so far

View Preserved's profile


11 posts in 2013 days

#1 posted 05-05-2013 10:45 AM

I should also add that the finished top is 40mm thick. I should have enough room to use the bolts.

Also, this is the island top I just finished:


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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 2992 days

#2 posted 05-05-2013 03:04 PM

You might run into trouble with different amounts of shrinkage doing it like that. That can be avoided by mitering the corners at 22.5°.

I have a worktop mitering jig with the template for sinking the worktop connector bolts. Nothing special, bought it off ebay. It’s a system that works very well, use biscuits between bolts to aid alignment.

You might find this interesting, I posed a similar question not so long ago.

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Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2873 days

#3 posted 05-05-2013 03:35 PM

The bolts are ideal because they will in fact allow differential contraction and expansion. There are the cheapie ones, just a 1/4” bolt with a threaded block and a dummy block.

the nicer ones use a millimetric hole, likely what you’re thinking of.

Using these, and dry biscuits for alignment, your grain direction differences will not be a concern. You can glue up the corner piece with aesthetics as the only driver.

Beautiful work on the island, BTW. You make us all proud!



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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117115 posts in 3600 days

#4 posted 05-05-2013 03:49 PM

I agree with Lee

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

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Bill White

4948 posts in 3983 days

#5 posted 05-05-2013 05:06 PM

Get the ones that fit in a 1 3/8” hole on either side of the joint. Lee Valley has ‘em for about $2.80/10 units.


View Preserved's profile


11 posts in 2013 days

#6 posted 05-06-2013 12:22 PM

Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice. I don’t think I’ll go with the 22.5 degree miters since I’ve got some parts of this built already and didn’t account for the extra length from a 90. Looks like that would have been a great option though. Looks like it worked great for the other project in the above link.

And thanks for the links to those connectors…what would we do without the internet. Remember catalogs?


View frosty50's profile


46 posts in 2370 days

#7 posted 05-06-2013 11:57 PM

If you have countertop shop locally, ask about their drawbolts that they use for joining preformed plastic laminate countertops together with. Sometimes the big box stores carry them if they sell the countertops. I have used them in the past for joining solid wood countertops together. All you need is a router with a straight bit and a 7/16 open end wrench. Usually 3 to 4 drawbolts per joint will do it.

-- frosty

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