Rust removal from miter slots?

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Forum topic by Sirgreggins posted 05-05-2013 02:17 AM 1543 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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298 posts in 1658 days

05-05-2013 02:17 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

So my uncle had a Craftsman 62855 flex drive saw that he gave to me for free. I have started to remove the rust first with the ROS and some WD-40 with an SOS pad. A large portion of the rust is gone and I can see bare metal ago. But… I’m not sure how to remove the rust from the miter slot.

17 replies so far

View kdc68's profile


2526 posts in 1699 days

#1 posted 05-05-2013 02:24 AM

sanding block on edge (3/4” thickness) and some elbow grease

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Tenfingers58's profile


96 posts in 2100 days

#2 posted 05-05-2013 08:30 PM

Does the miter gauge slide easily in the slot? Would wax help? The way I see it is if you can avoid making the slot wider, that would be the best way.

Electrolosis may be a good way to remove the rust, but it would be a real pain to set up a tray deep enough to put the top in with sacrifical bars suspended above the slots.

Maybe a big enough drum could be used so the top and bars could be vertical.

Another way would be to wrap steel wool around a block somewhat narrower than the slot and apply elbow grease.

The idea is to remove the rust wothout making the slot wider. That way your miter gauge will fit without excessive slop.

If a sanding block is used, make it narrower than the 3/4 inch width of the slot and as long as possible.
My reasoning for this is you sand only on one side of the slot at a time and with the long block your sandpaper will remove the top of the rust until you get the side smooth without removing any extra material thus keeping your slot as narrow as possible. At least make the 3/4 inch block narrower by the thickness of the sandpaper on both sides of the block if you go that way.

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Bill White

4408 posts in 3383 days

#3 posted 05-05-2013 08:44 PM

Get a soda blaster from Harbor Freight. Cheap, easy, no environmental issues, and won’t change any dimensions.
Just my thought.


View Loren's profile (online now)


8165 posts in 3070 days

#4 posted 05-05-2013 08:44 PM

wire brush.

View Tenfingers58's profile


96 posts in 2100 days

#5 posted 05-05-2013 08:53 PM

Bill White,

Will soda take off rust?

Will Sirgreggins need to mask the top?

I have no experience with soda blasting and would like to learn.

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Bill White

4408 posts in 3383 days

#6 posted 05-05-2013 10:22 PM

Soda will remove the rust without damaging the surface other than makin’ it a little “frosted”. A quick polishing will remove the frosted appearance. Cast iron is pretty soft, and will respond to polishing well.
I have a stupid soda blaster from Harbor Freight. Use it on files, drill bits, etc. It is not an agressive medium, but will clean up stuff well without creating dimensional probs.
You do have a compressor?


View MrUnix's profile (online now)


4037 posts in 1621 days

#7 posted 05-05-2013 10:51 PM

Tape each end of the slot closed and fill with evapo-rust.


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Craftsman70's profile


243 posts in 1547 days

#8 posted 05-06-2013 02:42 AM

Wire wheel attachment on a drill. Just did that on mine last week. Although if you have some evap-o-rust handy I like that idea of taping the ends and filling the miter slots.

View Tenfingers58's profile


96 posts in 2100 days

#9 posted 05-06-2013 03:46 AM

Bill White,
Yes, I have a compressor.
So I don’t hijack this thread I’m starting a new one called “I want to learn about soda blasting”

View 1yeldud1's profile


301 posts in 2464 days

#10 posted 05-06-2013 09:31 AM

You can use a red scotch brite pad to do this job just cut and fold this sheet to get into the corners and it should remove the rust – spray a small amount of LPS or equ. in the slot and be shure to clean up afterwords

View Sirgreggins's profile


298 posts in 1658 days

#11 posted 05-06-2013 12:33 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I’m going to try a combination of all these suggestions.

View Cosmicsniper's profile


2202 posts in 2581 days

#12 posted 05-06-2013 01:01 PM

I wrap sandpaper around some nearly 3/4” stock.

-- jay,

View Sirgreggins's profile


298 posts in 1658 days

#13 posted 05-06-2013 05:25 PM

what about the black stuff left over once i remove the red rust? i’ve heard a lot of good things about evaporust but since it’s a liquid i dont know i would use that on the top w/o it just running over the sides. I’ve also heard about naval jelly, but the problem ive heard is that it has to be rinse of with water and i dont know how to address that w/o getting the motor wet

View teejk's profile


1215 posts in 2107 days

#14 posted 05-06-2013 05:39 PM

Years ago farmers used CocaCola in the barns for rust removal on the milking equipment. My neighbor uses it clean her toilets in our high iron water area.

View EPJartisan's profile


1116 posts in 2547 days

#15 posted 05-06-2013 05:48 PM

+1 Naval Jelly..when I first moved into my current space, the ceiling leaked in the first week, before I even had my equipment set up… did I write leaked… it rained… water off the ceiling, water down the walls.. 3 inches on the floor… and i am on the third and top floor…. everything I had that was iron was rusted…. my saws… my brand new, not even used yet Bench Dog router table + extension…. EVERYTHING was rust brown.

Naval jelly saved me… it cleaned off all the rust off of everything… right back down to the metal.. which most had damage, but after a month or so my life was back to normal. I actually got pretty good at cleaning rust. Since, the roof has leaked a few more times and I have received many old hand planes and chisels.. all had to be cleaned and fixed. Naval Jelly is now a standard in my studio.

-- " 'Truth' is like a beautiful flower, unique to each plant and to the season it blossoms ... 'Fact' is the root and leaf, allowing the plant grow and bloom again."

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