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Cupped Walnut Slab

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Forum topic by bannerpond1 posted 05-01-2013 09:34 PM 1383 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bannerpond1

397 posts in 1358 days


05-01-2013 09:34 PM

I have a walnut slab, 5/4 thick, four feet long, and tapered from 20 to 26 inches in width. I want to make a small table top, but it’s cupped. Across the wide end, the cup is 1/2 inch deep. Across the narrow width, it’s 1/4 inch. With the best side up, the cup makes a “smile” rather than a “frown.”

My thought is to saw kerfs, parallel to the grain, on the underside of the slab. I plan to wet the slab and then weigh it down with concrete blocks while it dries. I will put angle iron cleats across the underside to hold the slab in level, and hide those cleats with wood.

Anyone have a better way to solve this problem? I’d appreciate all inputs.

-- --Dale Page


6 replies so far

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Loren

8294 posts in 3107 days


#1 posted 05-01-2013 09:46 PM

Snap a line, band saw it in half, joint and glue. You don’t
have to cut it dead center – cut it where the joint will
almost disappear in the grain.

Try this on another board first if you don’t believe me
it can look good.

In terms of using angle iron, if you want to do that the
kerfs and all should not be needed. Get 2×2 angle iron
and it’s way stiff than a piece of 5/4 walnut. A 1.25”
square steel tube is pretty darn stiff too.

Be sure to slot the screw holes in the steel so the
board can move.

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pintodeluxe

4852 posts in 2272 days


#2 posted 05-01-2013 10:35 PM

1+ Loren’s method.

This dining table timber is 4 pieces of oak laminated together, but you’d never know it.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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bannerpond1

397 posts in 1358 days


#3 posted 05-01-2013 11:25 PM

But, Loren, if I rip it and glue it back, I’ll have two cups, half as deep. That means I’ll have to plane and sand it down and have less than the 5/4 thickness.

The kerfs were to allow for bending the wood w/o splitting it, and the angle iron is for keeping the bow from coming back.

I have flattened a butcher block by making a router sled to level it, and will probably do that.

Thanks for the input. I may do that if I think I can end up with at least a 4/4 slab thickness.

-- --Dale Page

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Timberwerks

355 posts in 2620 days


#4 posted 05-02-2013 12:51 AM

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bannerpond1

397 posts in 1358 days


#5 posted 05-02-2013 12:36 PM

Thanks, Timberwerks. I believe you’re right. I will have to get it flat in order to drill the hole, but I would be hiding the supporting member. The bit will come in handy for making a lamp, too.

Did you buy or make the extension for the bit? We’re talking 20 inches across the narrow face.

-- --Dale Page

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Timberwerks

355 posts in 2620 days


#6 posted 05-02-2013 01:20 PM

I purchased the bit and modified it. You may be able to get by with 1/2” rod and 16” bit.

-- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Timberwerks-Studio/126415221682

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