LumberJocks

Grizzly G0661 Table saw burning while cutting

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Splinter12 posted 478 days ago 1184 views 0 times favorited 45 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Splinter12's profile

Splinter12

51 posts in 740 days


478 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

Good day all, this would be my first forum post. I got a grizzly G0661 contractor table saw (2hsp 240volt) a couple weeks back. I have been cutting baltic birch plywood and oak with no burning but have now gone onto hard maple. While cutting the maple I get bad buring and bad saw marks on the fence side of the blade. The other side of the cut is better but not what I would call acceptable. I am aligned to .002” of the miter slot tilting in towards the fence at the far end and I have set my fence to tow out to .010” at the far end. I am using a Freud 50 tooh combo blade thin kerf. The maple is jointed on the side that faces the fence and the maple only looks to have a little tension in it while cutting.

My question would be is the minimal teniosn in the maple (i meen a shift 1/64” of 36”) be enough to cause the burning?
Should I actually bite the bullet and get a full kerf rip balde?
Would a magnetic feather board help?
Is there anyhting else going on here?

I upgraded from my Bosch 4100 and I can’t remember haveing this kind of burning. This is my first wack a full size saw.

Thanks


45 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5414 posts in 2000 days


#1 posted 478 days ago

How thick is the maple?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3872 posts in 953 days


#2 posted 478 days ago

and I have set my fence to tow out to .010” at the far end.

try parallel to the slot and see if you still have the problem.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Splinter12's profile

Splinter12

51 posts in 740 days


#3 posted 478 days ago

Knotscott, the maple is 3/4” thick. The typical 1×6 S4S stuff.

View Splinter12's profile

Splinter12

51 posts in 740 days


#4 posted 478 days ago

SSnvet, I though you were supposed to have the end of the fence go away from the blade slightly to prevenet binding.

View Brandon's profile

Brandon

4138 posts in 1576 days


#5 posted 478 days ago

Splinter, I’ve had similar issues with some maple boards that were just so badly tensioned. They were pinching the riving knife after the cut and you’d find rising saw marks on one side. A full kerf blade did help a bit. Also oversize your initial cuts, then make the final cut so that it only takes off a little bit and will be much cleaner.

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

View JayT's profile (online now)

JayT

2169 posts in 836 days


#6 posted 478 days ago

Fence toeing slightly out is fine, but .010” is a bit much, IMHO. See if you can get it down to .002” or so.

Another possible culprit could be that the blade needs cleaned.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1956 posts in 901 days


#7 posted 478 days ago

+1 Brandon W...
If you hadn’t had problems before….then it’s probably the maple….Good advice for ripping the piece wider and then making a final cleanup pass

+1JayT...
Less skew on the fence and try a different combo blade or rip blade

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Splinter12's profile

Splinter12

51 posts in 740 days


#8 posted 478 days ago

kdc68, how is your G0661 treating you? What do you have in terms of dust collection? My shopvac is just not cutting it.

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1956 posts in 901 days


#9 posted 478 days ago

Splinter12...No issues with cutting like what you are experiencing…. I use thin kerf blades….The dust collection port has plugged up on me once, but that was my fault…...Other than that, so far…so good

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View verdesardog's profile

verdesardog

78 posts in 1236 days


#10 posted 478 days ago

when ripping, I always cut a bit wider then send the boards through my surface planer on edge for final clean up and dimensioning…

-- .. heyoka ..

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1956 posts in 901 days


#11 posted 478 days ago

Splinter12...Let us know if you resolved your issue…Other new G0661 owners (like me) may want a heads up…

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Splinter12's profile

Splinter12

51 posts in 740 days


#12 posted 478 days ago

Kdc68 I get a ton of dust on the floor, do you have that issue? I have a ridgid shop vac. Also with the thin kerf blades being .098 at the kerf and the riving knife been .090, have you found a quick way to get them lined up without a lot of trial and error/ losen, adjust set screw and repeat? The .004 on either side of the knife it hard to get right.

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

1956 posts in 901 days


#13 posted 478 days ago

Splinter12....Yeah I get saw dust on the floor…but most goes into the dust port. I will assume that is to be expected with the bottom of the saw open…No big deal to me though….I have the Diablo thin kerf blades and they are .098 as well. I have not had to adjust the riving knive….lucky I guess. When I first got the saw I put on the blade, I checked the gap between the blade and the riving knive by placing a straight edge along the blade (against the teeth and not the body of the blade) and was able to slip a .004 feeler gage in there. I have checked a couple times since and no change. Do you think your riving knive is out of alignment?

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1008 posts in 911 days


#14 posted 478 days ago

#1 check riving knife alignment. If it is out of alignment such that it is too far toward the left of the blade, it can tend to pull the piece toward the side of the blade (the side facing the fence). The tension in the cut off tries to close the kerf (yes I know it can go the other way too) and the cut off hits the riving knife and basically then tries to pull your GOOD piece toward the side of the blade. I say this because you mentioned it seems to be burning more on the good side of the cut and less on the cut off.

The “toe-out” on the fence is a bit much. My blade-to-miter-slot alignment is within a half a thousandth as best I can measure (I just got lucky) and my fence toe-out is about .003.

I cut a lot of hard maple for face frames last summer and the maple was definitely more finicky about getting things aligned. Cut a piece of poplar… perfect, with no burn at all. Cut a piece of maple the same thickness right afterward… hmmmmm… some burning. I was told by someone (can’t remember who) that the sugars in the maple make it more prone to burning.

Whatever…. once I tweaked the saw to get clean cuts on maple, it seemed to cut everything else better as well.

shrug

it’s wood. :)

View Splinter12's profile

Splinter12

51 posts in 740 days


#15 posted 478 days ago

I’ll “play” a bit more tonight with the suggestions.

Thanks All

showing 1 through 15 of 45 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase