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Bought a used Jet Planer... might have been a little too eager?

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Forum topic by bwoods posted 04-29-2013 07:41 PM 1548 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bwoods

41 posts in 1403 days


04-29-2013 07:41 PM

So I bought a used Jet planer, model #JPM-13cs, off of CL.

(http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17118&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CLuxnYPM8LYCFSSCQgodxgQAgQ)

This is my first planer and I the basics of the tool and have never actually used one. I did some research after I saw the and it looked like it was a pretty nice planer… nicer than what I was looking for since my budget was a firm $200 for my beginners WW shop. I told the guy that and he eventually said “what the hell, you can have it for $200 if you can pick it up today.” It was a few hours away and I couldn’t pick it up so I had a friend go check it out… who really knew nothing about tools at all. But he said it looked like it was in decent shape and it ran smoothly…

Well I got the tool in yesterday and… I am not sure if I just wasted the $200. It has some pretty significant rust but no significant damage, it is missing the dust hood that goes on the top, one of the roller feed screw holes that is on the end of the table is busted… All those I can get around I think…

The problem I am not sure how to fix concerns the table. The crank that is on top of the machine that lowers the table is missing. I solved that temporarily by just on a pair of vise grips… but it lead me to a bigger problem. I can’t get the table to lower. The crank turns a big lead screw, and that seems to move fine and I can see the table slightly adjusting on the side with the crank… however it is immobile on the side opposite from the crank. I can’t tell if it is a rust problem or if it is an alignment problem (though nothing seems bent) or what…

So my question… how do I determine what the cause is of the immobilization? If it is rust how should I go about solving this problem… If I start disassembling this thing am I going to get in over my head? Below are some pictures for reference…


12 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

2022 posts in 2090 days


#1 posted 04-29-2013 08:53 PM

check the OM for a cutter head lock:

http://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/708524_man_EN.pdf

if it functions properly after you review the OM, $200 was a good deal for a planer like that.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View MBD's profile

MBD

72 posts in 1347 days


#2 posted 04-29-2013 08:54 PM

It is probably frozen to the guide rods with rust. Spray some good penetrating oil on all four of them and let it sit overnight. That should free it up. Then take some soft brite pads and clean the rods up. Mine was the same way. I spent about a full day just cleaning it up and servicing it, like it should be done.

-- Matt, Mississippi

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bwoods

41 posts in 1403 days


#3 posted 04-29-2013 08:59 PM

I am totally new to planer’s and woodworking in general… but I can’t find anything like a “cutter head lock” on the OM. I’ve got it sprayed down now… hoping for the best.

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1625 posts in 2094 days


#4 posted 04-29-2013 09:02 PM

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/jet-jpm13cs-708524-planer-molder-parts-c-32652_33079_33084.html

I just looked at a parts breakdown on e-replacements. It appears that the lead screw you mentioned is connected to a sprocket. That sprocket moves a (bicycle) chain that is connected to the screw on the other side. These screws work in-tendem to raise/lower the table. Its very possible that rust/woodchips/debris has worked its way into one/more of these parts and has jamed them up.
You’re going to have to take the covers off of both sides to investigate. Looks like 4 screws holding each cover on. SHouldn’t bee too hard. Fire some compressed air onto the gears and chain. Then follow-up with some lube oil.

That dust hood supposedly cost $100 to replace. Ouch. I’d buy some HVAC parts from lowes and rig-up a shop-made replacement. Not only does the hood direct the chips away from the machine, it also prevents foreign object such as a nail or a FINGER from hitting the cutterhead. I can’t stress how important it is to replace the hood.
A replacement crank is $12. Ebay might yield replacement parts for less.

If you get this thing into good working order (and I think you can), you’ll have a $1,000 planer for a $200 investment. That said, I’d have bought it for $200 in a second. I imagine that you can have this machine in service with minimal effort.

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bwoods

41 posts in 1403 days


#5 posted 04-29-2013 09:07 PM

Ahhhh… I saw the chain and had noticed the other lead screw wasn’t rotating at all… which seemed weird to me… gonna go see about that right now…

View Loren's profile

Loren

8301 posts in 3109 days


#6 posted 04-29-2013 09:09 PM

For the crank you can usually modify a long socket
(a spark plug socket might be a good one to use, if
you don’t need it).

Many dust hoods will fit with some fiddling. Even
one built for HVAC will work. If the hood is too
small, screw a piece of plywood over the hole in
planer, cut a rectangular hole for the hood you
have, and you have a custom hood mount.

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1625 posts in 2094 days


#7 posted 04-29-2013 09:11 PM

Unless I’m mistaken, this planer has a stationary cutterhead. Thus a cutterhead lock would not be applicable. Cutter locks are typically found on smaller “lunchbox” machines.

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bwoods

41 posts in 1403 days


#8 posted 04-29-2013 09:37 PM

Found the culprit… the chain which connects the 2 lead screws together is… gone. A pain but easily fixable… once I figure out how to install a chain :)

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bwoods

41 posts in 1403 days


#9 posted 04-29-2013 09:39 PM

Next couple of questions… what is the best way to clean the rust off the table and how do I know if I need to replace the knives? Should I buy Jet the knives or are there better/more cost effective third party options?

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Tedstor

1625 posts in 2094 days


#10 posted 04-29-2013 09:52 PM

I wouldn’t guess the chain would be hard to install. Just loosen one/both collars that hold the lead screws in position. That should give you enough wiggle room to get the chain over both sprockets.

Light rust can usually be cleaned-up with steel wool or a scotchbrite pad. Some mineral spirits and a scraper can clean-up the heavier stuff. Just remember to re-lube any moving part that might have been in contact with mineral spirits (or other solvent). Oh, and treat the table with Johnson’s Paste Wax. It’ll prevent rust from returning and make the table slippery/smooth.

Knives should be replaced (or sharpened) if they are visibly worn OR if they produce crappy results. I’ve never used aftremarket blades in my plane since I scored several OEM sets for peanuts. But I wouldn’t hesitate to use an aftermarket set if the price was right and they offered a reasonable return policy.

It looks like Jet brand knives cost about $100. Amazon had an aftermart option for $65. If the current knives look ok, but are perhaps a bit dull, you might consider having them resharpened. Send them off to a reputable service if a local option is not available. Probably cost about $10 per knife (plus to/from shipping).

View toolie's profile

toolie

2022 posts in 2090 days


#11 posted 04-30-2013 01:16 AM

the guys over at the bt3central and woodnet forums have many favorable comments for this knife supplier ( i have no first hand knowledge of his products):

http://www.holbren.com/

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17960 posts in 2029 days


#12 posted 04-30-2013 01:20 AM

I use aftermarket blades from here http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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