Quick and economical drawer boxes

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Forum topic by 1thumb posted 04-28-2013 02:05 PM 983 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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89 posts in 2355 days

04-28-2013 02:05 PM

Tite budget, got to produce these boxes fast but still sturdy and lasting. I’m planning on ripping fronts and backs 1/2 inch less wide than sides, assemble boxes and drop in 1/2”bottom which will be flush w/sides and fit below front and backs. All using 1/2” veneer plywood. If I glue bottom, will ply bottom move enuff to cause problems later? Thanks

3 replies so far

View woodbutcherbynight's profile


5682 posts in 2608 days

#1 posted 04-28-2013 02:10 PM

I would not glue the bottom. I did this once and wished to make a change, once glued that is no longer possible. You could on assembly use some hot glue if you were worried about the sides bowing out.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

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Lee Barker

2170 posts in 3049 days

#2 posted 04-28-2013 03:11 PM

Ply doesn’t move, so that’s not a concern.

The vulnerable joinit on a drawer is the attachment of the front to the sides. Hence dovetails, hence drawer-lock router and shaper bits, etc.

My approach, given your constraints, would be to glue (and staple) the whole thing together and when it’s set up, run a couple of 1/4” dowels into those critical joints. Bore the holes amply deep and pound the dowels flush. Done.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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89 posts in 2355 days

#3 posted 04-28-2013 03:45 PM

Thank you Lee, Woodbutcher. Working off blueprints so not expecting changes. If there are, they can pay me for changes. Like the dowel idea but this material the GC is providing is total crap “sandply” from Lowe’s. I have my doubts if it will accept a 1/4 hole w/o delaminating and crumbling. Glue, staples should suffice. For at least a year when my comitement ends.

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