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Forum topic by Belg1960 posted 460 days ago 662 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Belg1960

786 posts in 1670 days


460 days ago

Guys, I’m working on a project which has 60 degree roofs which are about 7” long and 4+/-” wide, they have been pre-finished and I would like to glue them together but my clamps keep sliding off. Its across the 4” peak I want a tight joint.

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!


15 replies so far

View TheeWoodShed's profile

TheeWoodShed

162 posts in 515 days


#1 posted 460 days ago

Could you put a couple pin nails in it until the glue dried? I’ve never had a lot of luck with pre-finished pieces holding together with just glue. But could be the glue I use.

-- "Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life."

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4760 posts in 1182 days


#2 posted 460 days ago

Make a jig and glue them upside down?

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14621 posts in 2281 days


#3 posted 460 days ago

I would do it with wedges in a square box.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

758 posts in 921 days


#4 posted 460 days ago

If I understand the problem correctly, this is how I’d resolve it.

The green part represents a piece of plywood with an angled block glued to the top. Two of these get clamped to the birdhouse top then clamps are placed across the angled blocks to close the joint.

Sandpaper is normally what I’d use as the non-slip substance on the piece of plywood that contacts the birdhouse top. On a finished surface you may choose to glue non-slip rubber drawer liner there instead.

Basically the way clamping works, if you can provide surfaces parallel to the joint being glued on either side, you’ll be able to clamp across the joint perfectly.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

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JAAune

758 posts in 921 days


#5 posted 460 days ago

- deleted accidental double post -

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View Belg1960's profile

Belg1960

786 posts in 1670 days


#6 posted 460 days ago

Mark, the pieces were only finished on the “good side” I don’t think the birds will care if there roof is finished on the inside. LOL I used the pin nail method to do the ones in the pics but they are not as tight as I would have liked.

Jaaune, I like this method and I think ill just make it a little longer and glue a block on the bottom as well to stop it from lifting. Thanks for the suggestions, this place rocks.

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112002 posts in 2182 days


#7 posted 460 days ago

I agree with JAAune’s aproach.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View TheeWoodShed's profile

TheeWoodShed

162 posts in 515 days


#8 posted 460 days ago

Pat, JAAune’s model is perfect! Dang I wish I knew how to use those newfangled software programs!!!! That was sweet and showed you exactly how to do it!!!

Good Luck!!!!

-- "Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life."

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1455 days


#9 posted 460 days ago

There are some creative and practical solutions offered here. And then mine, way less drama and cleverness:

I’d lay these good side up, pointy edges just touching, and tape them together with masking tape.

Turn it upside down, spread the glue (an acid brush is very helpful in this situation) and fold it together. Results are amazing.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

569 posts in 914 days


#10 posted 460 days ago

I agree with Lee and James 101.

Miter folding is easy and effective. Use some good packing tape, not masking or painters tape.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Tony_S's profile (online now)

Tony_S

416 posts in 1688 days


#11 posted 459 days ago

Yep, masking tape. Simple and effective.

-- "The trouble with people idiot-proofing things, is the resulting evolution of the idiot."

View Belg1960's profile

Belg1960

786 posts in 1670 days


#12 posted 459 days ago

Thanks again for the suggestion, when I do a more precise project I think this will come in very handy. These pieces were rough sawn and aren’t consistent enough to get great joints.

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1455 days


#13 posted 459 days ago

A little flagrant hijackage here, regarding tape types.

I have used masking tape because it is actually stretchy. If I put a little tension on it as I’m applying it, there’s pull involved.

I’m interested in packaging tape too—would it have other advantages?

Now back to the OP: If the cut’s aren’t so good, two other adhesive choices would be epoxy and polyurethane.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Wdwerker's profile

Wdwerker

331 posts in 838 days


#14 posted 459 days ago

They sell a clamping aid called “Blockz”. I think Lee Valley/Veritas sells them now. Comes with rubber liners for not marking finished pieces.
I would use a domino , biscuit or dowel to strengthen the joint.

-- Fine Custom Woodwork since 1978

View jap's profile

jap

1225 posts in 659 days


#15 posted 459 days ago

I would use masking tape or packing tape.

-- Joel

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