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Over head Table Saw Dust Collection

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Forum topic by Twodeuce posted 04-25-2013 08:02 AM 2202 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Twodeuce

17 posts in 516 days


04-25-2013 08:02 AM

This is my first post, but I wanted to share my overhead table saw Dust collector. I love my grizzly saw, but hated that there was no real option for tabletop dust collection. I didn’t want to wait 12 weeks for a Sharkguard, so I went to Home Depot and got some bobs and bits along with some 1/8 Lexan poly-carbonate and went to work. I utilized the OEM riving knife and attachment bar to connect to it. The bar does run down the middle of the 4 inch opening (maybe an 1” wide), but it hasn’t had a real negative affect.
As you can see in the photos, all four sides are independently movable. Dust collection has been a ton better since I put it on. If I had to do it over again, I would rework the front flap and connect the moving bars on each side so they move parallel to each other instead of independently. Although, in 95% of my use, it hasn’t been a problem.
Hopefully this helps someone else.

http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/Twodeuce22/library/Table%20Saw%20Overhead%20Dust%20Collector?sort=3&page=1


14 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1794 posts in 1151 days


#1 posted 04-25-2013 11:15 AM

Looks good. I especially like the separate side pieces…I would think the independent movement would be good. It’s something I’ve wished for on mine from time to time.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, we sent 'em to Washington.

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toolie

1762 posts in 1286 days


#2 posted 04-25-2013 11:50 AM

any chance for larger pics or a tip on how to increase the size of what comes up when engaging the link? kind of small to really appreciate what is described.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Twodeuce

17 posts in 516 days


#3 posted 04-25-2013 12:35 PM

I will try to get better ones this weekend. Clear plastic + my cell phone doesn’t make a good combo for viewing. As for blowing up the pictures on photobucket, I just click on the picture and use my iPad to zoom in.

Probably doesnt help if you’re not a Mac person.

As for detail…I used right angle metal brackets on top and “mending brackets” to connect the sides. Drilled the holes larger to accept 1/4 nylon bolts. Then used nylon bolts, nylon washers and “spinning washer nuts” on the moving side. Outside of that, i used lock nuts and regular 1/4 nuts so i couldnt tighten it down and get just the right balance of free spin and little/no sideways play.

As for Lexan, it works very easily as long as you support it from behind while cutting or drilling.

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toolie

1762 posts in 1286 days


#4 posted 04-25-2013 02:04 PM

got the site to work for me. regarding the front of the guard, how does a work piece fed into the blade get past the front guard piece? does that front hinged piece have to be manually lifted or adjusted so that it’s at least as high off the table as the work piece is thick?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Twodeuce

17 posts in 516 days


#5 posted 04-25-2013 02:23 PM

It can be, but yes. It is as high as the crest of the blade…maybe a hair lower. None the less, I wanted it to be used as a reference. It’s main job is to deflect back any debris that might shoot forward. If I adjust the blade height properly, it hovers not too far over the surface.

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BTimmons

2127 posts in 1142 days


#6 posted 04-25-2013 05:41 PM

Twodeuce, I embedded the pictures here for you. They’re a bit large for LJs liking, though. I resize my images to 640 pixels wide because otherwise it starts chopping off parts. Anyway, there’s enough to be seen clearly.

Looks like a pretty solid setup.

-- Brian Timmons - http://www.BigTWoodworks.com

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BTimmons

2127 posts in 1142 days


#7 posted 04-25-2013 05:45 PM

It looks like the dust shroud is mounted directly to the top of the splitter, right? What do you do if you need to remove the splitter for a non-through cut? Is there a way to keep the dust shroud over the blade in that instance, or does it rely solely upon the splitter being in place?

-- Brian Timmons - http://www.BigTWoodworks.com

View Loren's profile

Loren

7570 posts in 2305 days


#8 posted 04-25-2013 05:46 PM

Looks good.

I added overhead dust collection awhile back and I’ve
been very pleased with it – catches a lot of fine airborne
nuisance dust and also controls projectile chips better
than a guard alone.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

4014 posts in 986 days


#9 posted 04-25-2013 07:04 PM

I like it a lot….

I ‘m re-furbishing an old Jet TS and agree that the Shark Guard wait time (not to mention the price) is pretty excessive. I have the older style splitter with slotted metal side guards and am thinking about converting it into a system similar to what you’ve done.

Great Job!

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Twodeuce

17 posts in 516 days


#10 posted 04-25-2013 08:59 PM

BTimmons, thanks for embedding them and the advice! Yes, at this point its only for through cuts. I’m limited as to what I can do as the wife made it very clear she is parking her car in the garage! If it was a fixed position saw, I might have gone with it fixed overhead. But for now I will use the riving knife with my dado set…and hold my breath. ;)

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BTimmons

2127 posts in 1142 days


#11 posted 04-25-2013 09:12 PM

No problem. You can actually embed pictures straight from the forum interface. Just below the text box is a Photobucket widget that you can use to log on and paste pictures. Or what I did in this case was copy the URL of each image and put an exclamation mark (!) on either end.

Well, if it won’t do dust collection with dado cuts, it’s still a better system that what I have in place. Just a shop vac hooked up to the lower dust port on an old Delta contractor table saw. No overhead guard, splitter, or dust collection.

Indeed, “They don’t make ‘em like they used to”. But sometimes it’s for a very good reason.

-- Brian Timmons - http://www.BigTWoodworks.com

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BTimmons

2127 posts in 1142 days


#12 posted 04-25-2013 09:26 PM

By the way, I’m wondering about another design aspect. The plastic flap that faces forward, wouldn’t it make sense to have that angled back, so the incoming workpiece lifts it up? Seems to me like the present arrangement is a bit awkward.

-- Brian Timmons - http://www.BigTWoodworks.com

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Twodeuce

17 posts in 516 days


#13 posted 04-26-2013 02:37 AM

Yes, I could have reversed it…still might in a future prototype. However, my thought was never to have it engage the wood in the first place. It is strictly for chip deflection and a quick height reference. If it flapped back under, I would have to make the top support piece extend pretty far forward to keep it from catching in the blade. I also wanted the option to flip it out of the way quickly for better visual alignment.
These reasons coupled with the fact its done a great job so far have me less motivated to retool it…for now. :)
I appreciate the feedback and sharing of ideas. Its how we all get better. Thank you.

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CessnaPilotBarry

891 posts in 768 days


#14 posted 04-26-2013 02:56 AM

How does it do with a sled?

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

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