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Forum topic by geauxtiger posted 455 days ago 751 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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geauxtiger

11 posts in 1192 days


455 days ago

The info I’v read about wood to wood veneer mentions contact cement. Is wood glue(Titebond) OK.


8 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

7226 posts in 2245 days


#1 posted 455 days ago

If you have a press, you can use it. Some Titebond glues can
be applied to both surfaces, allowed to dry and then reactivated
by ironing the veneer down. This is probably best as a
repair technique.

Depending on veneer thickness and porosity, PVA glues can
come through the veneer enough to mess up finishing.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1642 posts in 1090 days


#2 posted 455 days ago

Contact cement is biest used on apaper backed veneers. For unbacked regular veneers, a wood glue is better. TB will work, I prefer the urea formaldehyde types, usually the powdered glues you mix. I’ve been wanting to try Unibond 8000 and haven’t had the chance yet.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

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geauxtiger

11 posts in 1192 days


#3 posted 455 days ago

Thanks. Will experiment.

View John Ormsby's profile

John Ormsby

1276 posts in 2334 days


#4 posted 455 days ago

Contact cement moves a lot. I do not recommend using it for veneers. You will most likely have gaps appear later on at the seams or edges. PVA can be used sometimes. Again, it moves and gaps can appear. Unibond 800 Urea formaldehyde glue or similar and epoxy works the best and are very stable.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View AlanBienlein's profile

AlanBienlein

140 posts in 1271 days


#5 posted 455 days ago

I’ve been using tite bond cold press veneer glue since early 2008 without a problem. 45 minutes in the vacuum press and your ready to go.

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1468 posts in 2722 days


#6 posted 455 days ago

I tried contact cement once. It was a very expensive mistake. All my nice veneer tore itself apart and ruined the pieces.

I’ve had best luck with iron on Titebond II: spread on both surfaces (foam brush works well, hacksaw blade works okay), let dry, but not too long, then within 12 hours of spreading it on (important!), use an iron on the veneer. The only problem with this I’ve had is that the moisture in the glue expands the veneer, and it shrinks when you iron it on, so I had to do a little cyanoacrylate and sandpaper gap filling.

But that veneer is on there rock solid and will take all sorts of abuse.

And no matter what I’ll never use contact cement on veneer again.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

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Dan Lyke

1468 posts in 2722 days


#7 posted 455 days ago

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shipwright

4837 posts in 1395 days


#8 posted 455 days ago

Hide glue… no press, no clamps…. easy.
Do a search on hammer veneering.
............Or check out this video.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

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