veneer glue

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Forum topic by geauxtiger posted 04-24-2013 05:33 PM 1352 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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17 posts in 2794 days

04-24-2013 05:33 PM

The info I’v read about wood to wood veneer mentions contact cement. Is wood glue(Titebond) OK.

8 replies so far

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3846 days

#1 posted 04-24-2013 06:14 PM

If you have a press, you can use it. Some Titebond glues can
be applied to both surfaces, allowed to dry and then reactivated
by ironing the veneer down. This is probably best as a
repair technique.

Depending on veneer thickness and porosity, PVA glues can
come through the veneer enough to mess up finishing.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5173 posts in 2692 days

#2 posted 04-24-2013 06:46 PM

Contact cement is biest used on apaper backed veneers. For unbacked regular veneers, a wood glue is better. TB will work, I prefer the urea formaldehyde types, usually the powdered glues you mix. I’ve been wanting to try Unibond 8000 and haven’t had the chance yet.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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17 posts in 2794 days

#3 posted 04-24-2013 08:43 PM

Thanks. Will experiment.

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John Ormsby

1288 posts in 3935 days

#4 posted 04-24-2013 08:58 PM

Contact cement moves a lot. I do not recommend using it for veneers. You will most likely have gaps appear later on at the seams or edges. PVA can be used sometimes. Again, it moves and gaps can appear. Unibond 800 Urea formaldehyde glue or similar and epoxy works the best and are very stable.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View AlanBienlein's profile


159 posts in 2873 days

#5 posted 04-24-2013 09:11 PM

I’ve been using tite bond cold press veneer glue since early 2008 without a problem. 45 minutes in the vacuum press and your ready to go.

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1520 posts in 4323 days

#6 posted 04-24-2013 10:21 PM

I tried contact cement once. It was a very expensive mistake. All my nice veneer tore itself apart and ruined the pieces.

I’ve had best luck with iron on Titebond II: spread on both surfaces (foam brush works well, hacksaw blade works okay), let dry, but not too long, then within 12 hours of spreading it on (important!), use an iron on the veneer. The only problem with this I’ve had is that the moisture in the glue expands the veneer, and it shrinks when you iron it on, so I had to do a little cyanoacrylate and sandpaper gap filling.

But that veneer is on there rock solid and will take all sorts of abuse.

And no matter what I’ll never use contact cement on veneer again.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California,

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Dan Lyke

1520 posts in 4323 days

#7 posted 04-24-2013 10:24 PM

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8165 posts in 2996 days

#8 posted 04-25-2013 12:57 AM

Hide glue… no press, no clamps…. easy.
Do a search on hammer veneering.
............Or check out this video.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese!

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