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Setting the wood stop for repeat cuts

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Forum topic by Debora Cadene posted 359 days ago 807 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Debora Cadene

25 posts in 362 days


359 days ago

Do you all have a good way to set the wood stopping block for repeat cuts. I probably did it the hard way, but I’m hoping you all can change that. I measured my first board, drew my line, then set the board stop to the line. I had to readjust a few times, as when I’d tighten it, it changed a little, I kept the blade touching the outside of my line while tightening, then would lift the blade up to see if there was any movement and then set it back down again. Sometimes it was good, other times for different measurements, it would change. I tried to just set the tape measure on the part the blade goes into and measure to the stop, but that thing is wiggly and I have a hard time making the top part square….i guess that would be another question.


11 replies so far

View Mark Davisson's profile

Mark Davisson

450 posts in 1818 days


#1 posted 359 days ago

Are we talking mitre saw here?

-- I'm selfless because it feels so good!

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2227 posts in 852 days


#2 posted 359 days ago

Use a steel rule instead of a tape measure.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8473 posts in 2149 days


#3 posted 359 days ago

use a sacrificial board and sneak up on the measurement making small cuts and readjusting the stop block until you get to your desired cut length on the sacrificial(s) block. once that is setup properly, you can move on and make your actual cuts on your boards knowing that the saw+stop block are setup properly.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View sprucegum's profile

sprucegum

323 posts in 498 days


#4 posted 359 days ago

Often when using a stop board be it on a miter saw, table saw or some other tool you will get sawdust or a chip between the end of your work and the stop and accuracy will be affected. I eliminate this problem by setting my stop about 1/2” long then I put a wood screw into the end of my stop positioned so that it will hit about midway of my work. I then adjust the screw in or out until I get the length I want and as PurpLev said use some scrap wood as a sacrificial board untill you get it rite. Using the screw all but eliminates the problem of debris affecting you accuracy.

-- A tube of calk and a gallon of paint will make a carpenter what he ain't

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1130 posts in 757 days


#5 posted 358 days ago

I set the workpiece in place, then clamp my stop block at an angle so that the corner of the stop is touching the piece to be cut. Double check that the blade is still where it needs to be then cut all the pieces the same length.

-- Art

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

2982 posts in 1176 days


#6 posted 358 days ago

The wood screw is a good method but you can also snip the corner of the stop off so the sawdust can be pushed under the stop block. There are clamps made for this or most any clamp will work if you can keep the clamp itself out of your way. I have some of the clamps that Rockler sells for this exact purpose. I use them for a stop on my tablesaw fence. without more information I am afraid you won’t get much more than the above information.

View mbs's profile

mbs

1383 posts in 1440 days


#7 posted 358 days ago

Still not sure about the type of saw being used but I’ll assume it’s a miter saw. Here are some other items to check.

1) is the wood you’re cutting straight and flat? If it’s not then you won’t get a 90 degree cut.
2) Is saw dust or debris between the fence and workpiece that prevents the wood from sitting against the fence?
3) is your blade square to the fence?
4) Are you holding the work piece firmly against the fence during the cut?
5) Is your measurement square “square”? This sounds silly but I have some expensive squares that aren’t square.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3384 posts in 880 days


#8 posted 358 days ago

Most of the time it doesn’t matter if the board is exactly the right length, just that they are all exactly the same length. My stop block has a 45d angle on the end so I don’t have to worry about sawdust building up and throwing off the cut.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View Debora Cadene's profile

Debora Cadene

25 posts in 362 days


#9 posted 358 days ago

Thank you for all the hints and ideas everyone. Yes, I am talking about a miter saw…sorry about not identifying that right away. I have been making sure the sawdust doesn’t build up at the end, and am holding the wood as flat against the back stop as I can as I make the cut. I probably just have to get my eyeballs looking in the right spot all the time.
mbs…..how do you make sure you square is square? since the wood was all 2×4’s so far, I used one of those small level measuring squares to mark off my lines, but its possible I am only guessing on the correct way to hold that onto the wood as well. So much to learn.
I’d love to see a picture of the screw method, or how to use the metal ruler instead of the tape measure if it was possible. thanks again.
I happen to have lots of sacrificial wood to make the practice cut, so I know I can pull that one off.

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3384 posts in 880 days


#10 posted 358 days ago

John Heisz shows how to check a square for square in the beginning of this video.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View Debora Cadene's profile

Debora Cadene

25 posts in 362 days


#11 posted 358 days ago

That was a great video..thank you. Now I gotta go and check the two squares I have.

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