Setting the wood stop for repeat cuts

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Forum topic by Debora Cadene posted 04-24-2013 12:17 PM 1957 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Debora Cadene

60 posts in 1858 days

04-24-2013 12:17 PM

Do you all have a good way to set the wood stopping block for repeat cuts. I probably did it the hard way, but I’m hoping you all can change that. I measured my first board, drew my line, then set the board stop to the line. I had to readjust a few times, as when I’d tighten it, it changed a little, I kept the blade touching the outside of my line while tightening, then would lift the blade up to see if there was any movement and then set it back down again. Sometimes it was good, other times for different measurements, it would change. I tried to just set the tape measure on the part the blade goes into and measure to the stop, but that thing is wiggly and I have a hard time making the top part square….i guess that would be another question.

11 replies so far

View Mark Davisson's profile

Mark Davisson

597 posts in 3314 days

#1 posted 04-24-2013 01:11 PM

Are we talking mitre saw here?

-- I'm selfless because it feels so good!

View bondogaposis's profile


4727 posts in 2348 days

#2 posted 04-24-2013 02:47 PM

Use a steel rule instead of a tape measure.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View PurpLev's profile


8535 posts in 3645 days

#3 posted 04-24-2013 02:50 PM

use a sacrificial board and sneak up on the measurement making small cuts and readjusting the stop block until you get to your desired cut length on the sacrificial(s) block. once that is setup properly, you can move on and make your actual cuts on your boards knowing that the saw+stop block are setup properly.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View sprucegum's profile


324 posts in 1994 days

#4 posted 04-24-2013 03:42 PM

Often when using a stop board be it on a miter saw, table saw or some other tool you will get sawdust or a chip between the end of your work and the stop and accuracy will be affected. I eliminate this problem by setting my stop about 1/2” long then I put a wood screw into the end of my stop positioned so that it will hit about midway of my work. I then adjust the screw in or out until I get the length I want and as PurpLev said use some scrap wood as a sacrificial board untill you get it rite. Using the screw all but eliminates the problem of debris affecting you accuracy.

-- A tube of calk and a gallon of paint will make a carpenter what he ain't

View AandCstyle's profile


3052 posts in 2254 days

#5 posted 04-25-2013 02:28 AM

I set the workpiece in place, then clamp my stop block at an angle so that the corner of the stop is touching the piece to be cut. Double check that the blade is still where it needs to be then cut all the pieces the same length.

-- Art

View Grandpa's profile


3259 posts in 2672 days

#6 posted 04-25-2013 02:40 AM

The wood screw is a good method but you can also snip the corner of the stop off so the sawdust can be pushed under the stop block. There are clamps made for this or most any clamp will work if you can keep the clamp itself out of your way. I have some of the clamps that Rockler sells for this exact purpose. I use them for a stop on my tablesaw fence. without more information I am afraid you won’t get much more than the above information.

View mbs's profile


1656 posts in 2937 days

#7 posted 04-25-2013 04:30 AM

Still not sure about the type of saw being used but I’ll assume it’s a miter saw. Here are some other items to check.

1) is the wood you’re cutting straight and flat? If it’s not then you won’t get a 90 degree cut.
2) Is saw dust or debris between the fence and workpiece that prevents the wood from sitting against the fence?
3) is your blade square to the fence?
4) Are you holding the work piece firmly against the fence during the cut?
5) Is your measurement square “square”? This sounds silly but I have some expensive squares that aren’t square.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View Woodknack's profile


11619 posts in 2377 days

#8 posted 04-25-2013 05:16 AM

Most of the time it doesn’t matter if the board is exactly the right length, just that they are all exactly the same length. My stop block has a 45d angle on the end so I don’t have to worry about sawdust building up and throwing off the cut.

-- Rick M,

View Debora Cadene's profile

Debora Cadene

60 posts in 1858 days

#9 posted 04-25-2013 12:00 PM

Thank you for all the hints and ideas everyone. Yes, I am talking about a miter saw…sorry about not identifying that right away. I have been making sure the sawdust doesn’t build up at the end, and am holding the wood as flat against the back stop as I can as I make the cut. I probably just have to get my eyeballs looking in the right spot all the time.
mbs… do you make sure you square is square? since the wood was all 2×4’s so far, I used one of those small level measuring squares to mark off my lines, but its possible I am only guessing on the correct way to hold that onto the wood as well. So much to learn.
I’d love to see a picture of the screw method, or how to use the metal ruler instead of the tape measure if it was possible. thanks again.
I happen to have lots of sacrificial wood to make the practice cut, so I know I can pull that one off.

View Woodknack's profile


11619 posts in 2377 days

#10 posted 04-25-2013 09:24 PM

John Heisz shows how to check a square for square in the beginning of this video.

-- Rick M,

View Debora Cadene's profile

Debora Cadene

60 posts in 1858 days

#11 posted 04-25-2013 09:53 PM

That was a great video..thank you. Now I gotta go and check the two squares I have.

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