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hvlp spar varnish

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Forum topic by tacoma07 posted 04-22-2013 07:20 AM 1621 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tacoma07

16 posts in 550 days


04-22-2013 07:20 AM

Topic tags/keywords: varnish hvlp spray gun

I was wondering if anyone had any experience spraying varnish with a hvlp gun.
I am about to varnish a cedar strip canoe with system three spar. I have a woodcraft wood river hvlp gun 1.4mm tip along with a 30 gallon compressor.
There really isnt much info out there on this. everyone uses a brush but I like the idea of spraying it. Any advice on thinning amount or nozzle size would be greatly appreciated.


15 replies so far

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john111

68 posts in 672 days


#1 posted 04-22-2013 01:05 PM

I have the same ?s. So no help here:-( I just had to say that is one gorgeous canoe!

-- john111

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tacoma07

16 posts in 550 days


#2 posted 04-22-2013 02:05 PM

Thanks. As soon as o figure out how to post a project I will put a few more pics up.

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Earlextech

994 posts in 1377 days


#3 posted 04-22-2013 04:50 PM

Nozzle you have should be fine, thin varnish about 10%.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"!

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pintodeluxe

3445 posts in 1500 days


#4 posted 04-22-2013 04:52 PM

1+ what Earlextech commented

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View MigWoodwork's profile

MigWoodwork

13 posts in 547 days


#5 posted 04-23-2013 01:40 AM

I have sprayed a thick marine spar varnish before. I have to tell you that it’s not the best way to go. A true marine spar varnish is best applied by brush. I used to work on luxury yachts for years and we varnished everything by brush.
I am now refinishing a lot of doors and occasionally spray spar varnish with a 2.2 and 10% thinnner or a 1.5 with a lot of thinner which i would not recommend for your project because the film thickness gets very thin and you do not want to do that with a wooden hull. Remember that you have to sand in between each coat and there wont be a lot of actual varnish left to sand after the first couple of coats. I would put the first
2 coats on by brush so you got enough varnish to sand and maybe later spray a couple of coats on.

-- http://www.migwoodwork.com

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tacoma07

16 posts in 550 days


#6 posted 04-23-2013 02:18 AM

migwoodwork I have been looking at everything i can find on the net and i think your right. The brush is probably going to be the safest way. If the first two coats lay down nicely then i will stick with the brush.
I originally wanted to spray it after what a coworker told me. He just varnished his canoe and he said the varnish these days drys to quickly due some environmental change in the contents. And it made brushing a panic attack on a 12 foot boat. And this was with thinned material.
I am not sure the brand he used so that may have been a factor.hopefully system three spar varnish will work out.
Putting a finish on my projects has always troubled me.

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 1610 days


#7 posted 04-23-2013 11:09 AM

Show a pic when you are finished. That is one fine looking project.

-- Life is good.

View MigWoodwork's profile

MigWoodwork

13 posts in 547 days


#8 posted 04-23-2013 03:10 PM

Tacoma07,
that very much depends on the varnish itself. System 3 is ok but i would go for something nicer. The varnish i use is a true spar marine varnish and really expensive. Its the same we used to use on yachts but i think it is well worth it. IF you have a west marine store in your city, go there and have a look for epifanes. Expect to pay somewhere around 45$ for a quart. Make sure that you properly seal the wood first. Put on 2 coats thinned down 50% with mineral spirits. This will soak into the wood fibers and properly seal it. After you have 2 coats of that on, put on 2 full strength coats of varnish as mentioned earlier. Get a wide brush to cover a big area. Epifanes needs to dry 24h between coats and if it’s not to hot you shouldnt have any trouble that the varnish dries on you

-- http://www.migwoodwork.com

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Loren

7731 posts in 2334 days


#9 posted 04-23-2013 04:26 PM

You may want to try a “weenie roller” – a small diameter
disposable foam paint roller. The foam doesn’t leave fibers in the finish.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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MigWoodwork

13 posts in 547 days


#10 posted 04-23-2013 08:53 PM

good idea but i would try to “tip it off” with a brush afterwards if you want a nice flat surface.

-- http://www.migwoodwork.com

View sgv's profile

sgv

266 posts in 579 days


#11 posted 04-23-2013 10:43 PM

Go to your nearest Sherwin Williams, they have the knowledge (I work for them) there are better products for what you are doing and they can give you the exact cut ratios, retarder, thinner,ect.

hope it helps

-- Tite Lines, May the wind be at your back

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sgv

266 posts in 579 days


#12 posted 04-23-2013 10:51 PM

Canoe looks great!!!

-- Tite Lines, May the wind be at your back

View Handtooler's profile

Handtooler

1096 posts in 819 days


#13 posted 04-23-2013 11:11 PM

That is a magnificent piece of work, ABSOLUTELY beautiful.

Many thanks all for all this great finishing knowledge. I’ll certainly file this away in my feeble brain; then maybe I can recover it when the time arises

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

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tacoma07

16 posts in 550 days


#14 posted 04-24-2013 12:42 AM

I was going to use epifanes but it was another 10 miles our of the way. I figured that system three which cost 40 must be as good as epifanes. Now i am going to bring it back. I would be a head case knowing that i could have had a better looking boat for a few extra miles.

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tacoma07

16 posts in 550 days


#15 posted 04-24-2013 01:20 AM

I took a lot of pics as i was making this. To many to add them all on here so i will paste a link in case anyone wants to see some of the steps done. as of now i have both inwales on along with the scuppers. Working on the seat now and then i get to the varnish. Once i am done i will add a few pics in the projects area,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/83883282@N07/sets/72157630847412616/

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