suggestions for a finish on my completed maloof rocker

Mike,
I can’t wait to see the finished product, and would like to echo the praise you’ve given Mark DeCou and Todd Clippinger, two very talented gentlemen who have added immeasurably to this site. Todd has been specifically the soul of kindness to me personally, and I hope he will some day again grace Pam and I with another visit to our home. I know that he has reached out to Blake as well to provide design assistance and guidance. Peace, love and woodworking in action.

From what I recall, doesn’t Maloof use a varnish oil with a beeswax final coat. I know there is a line of finishes that bears Sam’s name, but I think they made some changes to his original formula.

”...we use my own finish that Rockler sells – one third glossy varnish, one third boiled linseed oil, one third tung oil. I use that on everything, tabletops and all,” he said.

from http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/finishing.htm

There is a homebrew recipe on that web page. I think a wet-sanded varnish oil blend would be the way to provide protection, give the “in the wood” look of a Maloof piece and allow for easier touch up and repair should it be required down the road on your heirloom piece. It also provide a very nice tactile experience when sanded in with P600 grit auto paper. As you noted, you don’t need to use a food grade finish even though this is intended for use with an infant. Once cured I’m sure that the chair could withstand a little gnawing on without causing the baby any harm. And the addition of a bee's wax polish will give it a little more protection in the end.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

I use Deft Danish Natural oil. Though it is getting harder and harder to find, at least on the East coast. I tell my customers to use an oil-based furniture polish, usually I just give them a quart of the Deft which will last them a life-time, and to do a light cover and wipe down every 6 months or so. That maintains the shine for as long as they re-apply the oil and still presents the natural feel of the wood.

The deft is what was recommended by Hal Taylor and some other chair people…

Good luck.

-- Rich, WNY, www.nyrockingchairs.com

Well thanks guys. In Response to “NYRC” i use deft danish oil all the time. i love that stuff. if the chair were for me i would probably use just that. however i have noticed that over the past few weeks the chair has gotten really banged up. just from being moved on and of the workbench. i cant imagine what it would look like after 5 to 10 years of being rocked and sat in, with belts, wallets and buttons scratching against the seat. wallnut is a verry soft hardwood when compared to others. especially in certain ares where the figure is shown. disease got to certain parts and left a beautifull patern but also left not so dense wood behind.

Wich is why i wanted to go with something thats almost like a catalyst finish. is that correct? i think catalized finish is something that reacts to the air and hardens on top. someone correct me if i am wrong. anyways. something like what Douglas said. that finish should leave it looking verry natural and at the same time i believe the polly and tung oil will catalyze and leave a thin amber shield of protection.

Thanks doug. so you think that the mixture is all equal parts? do i apply with a rag do you think? and where can i get beez wax.

-- i can do all things through christ who strengthens me

well times up>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.. im done sanding and i am going to put down a base coat of boiled linseed oil for now. i have been experimenting with equal parts linseed, tung, and polly on a scrap board. i laid down two coats of that mix a few hours ago. it dosnt seem to want to harden or build the way i thought it would. i read somewhere that said that mixture requires lots and lots of coats and long periods for dry times. any help would be great. thanx

-- i can do all things through christ who strengthens me