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Forum topic by john111 posted 04-21-2013 03:23 PM 1150 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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john111

68 posts in 652 days


04-21-2013 03:23 PM

Hey i picked up this old powerkraft and I can not for the life of me get it to stop snapping or bending the blades. I will post a few pics and I know someone will help on this site! I put the blade in and push down on the top a little to get some tension. This way I have stopped the bending but eventually it just breaks. I know the tension rod has a factor in this but I tried adjusting it and that seems to do nothing. So either something is missing or I am just an idiot. I am leaning towards the later! Thanks all!

-- john111


12 replies so far

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 705 days


#1 posted 04-21-2013 03:39 PM

Powr-Kraft was sold by Monkey Wards and maybe made by Delta or Rockwell. Do you have a pic of the upper arm assembly? Is it the type where you pull down and tighten an internal spring? If so I can try and describe the method I used to install blades on my old Delta.

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john111

68 posts in 652 days


#2 posted 04-21-2013 05:40 PM

Thanks JustJoe for your help! Heres a link to a vid that might help. https://www.dropbox.com/lightbox/home/Public
You can just see the whole machine. Just disregard the crappy video job please!

-- john111

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 705 days


#3 posted 04-21-2013 05:44 PM

I get “Dropbox – Sign In or Create Account. No video

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john111

68 posts in 652 days


#4 posted 04-21-2013 06:23 PM

Sorry I must have done something wrong. i thought you just had to give the link for the public folder and all was good. Try this link maybe that will work, if not I will takes some more pics later and post them. https://www.dropbox.com/s/xuj14uogz9drmyp/2013-03-27%2014.30.51.mp4
Thanks again!

-- john111

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 705 days


#5 posted 04-21-2013 06:47 PM

Well first of all – please invest in a tripod before you send someone into an epileptic seizure…. :)

That is similar but not exact to the delta I had. The top part should have a knob you can loosen and then you pull the spring-loaded sleeve down. It is a PIA to adjust just right. The good news is you don’t have to use scrollsaw blades. You can take coping saw blades and cut the pins off. You can also take narrow bandsaw blades with a high tpi and grind the ends to fit in the slots. Length is adjustable too.

Here’s how I got it so it only broke the occasional blade:
With no blade, rotate the pulley by hand (on mine there was a knob on the side opposite the motor) until the bottom jaw is at its highest position.
Loosen the top jaw and let it spring fully open. Slide the blade into the top as far as it will go and then lower the blade (dont’ touch the jaws yet) down into the bottom jaw. Tighten the screw on the bottom jaw to hold the blade in.
Now pull that entire upper tube down with one hand. The excess blade should slide up inside it. When you’ve pulled it down tight, use your other hand to tighten the screw that holds the blade in the upper jaw. When you let go the upper tube should spring back up and it should be tight.
If it’s done right, you can rotate the pulley by hand and watch the bottom jaw drop, which should pull the blade downward and the spring-loaded tube up top should come with it. And when the bottom jaw starts to come back up, the top tube and jaw should come up at the same pace. The bend comes when the bottom jaw comes up faster than the top part and pushes the blade. If you can see it bend a little when you do it by hand, you haven’t adjusted it right.
If you go to the OWWM site and look up pow-r-kraft or delta rockwell scrollsaws you might find some pics, or instructions or diagrams.

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IrreverentJack

724 posts in 1509 days


#6 posted 04-21-2013 06:58 PM

John, Check out VintageMachinery.Org. I couldn’t find any Powr-Kraft (Montgomery Ward) scroll saw manuals there but you might find out who made them for MW. I think your saw has the upper blade mount attached to a spring that keeps the blade taught. The manual for an old Delta SS might give blade installation instructions that are close enough to help. -Jack

Edit: Joe’s got it. You probably aren’t putting enough tension on the upper spring when you install the blade. That is, if the 50-80 year old spring still has enough strength.

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john111

68 posts in 652 days


#7 posted 04-22-2013 12:36 PM

Hey everybody here is a few more images. Couple ?s are that when I turn the wingnut on the back it doesn’t seem to affect anything. The other is that at the very top of the stroke I have noticed a little twist. Slight and just at the very top. I took it apart and all looks good. Thanks again all! I appreciate your interest.

-- john111

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johnstoneb

698 posts in 839 days


#8 posted 04-22-2013 12:58 PM

1. It’s running to fast. I had a power kraft similar to this after I started putting the blaces in like Joe described it still would break the blades. I put a 2 in pulley on the motor and a 4 in on the gear box it would run for a few second before breaking the blade. I ended up with a 2 in pulley on the motor and a 6 in pulley on the gear box this slowed things down enough that it worked. What’s happeining is the spring cannot return the upper chuck fast enough at those higher speed.
You have a 1725 rpm motor with a 2 in pully on the motor and a 6 in pulley on the gear box you will have about 570 spm. With a 4 in pulley ( which is what it looks like you have you are running a little over 850 spm) The return spring is probably weak from age and can’t keep up.
I used mine for a little while after I got it slowed down, it was never very good, a lot of vibration, wouldn’t blow sawdust away from the cut, pain to change blades. I finally replaced it with a new Skil while the Skil is not the best scrollsaw out there. It is light years ahead of that powerkraft. I would not waste any time with it if you are going to do any scroll sawing replace it..

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 705 days


#9 posted 04-22-2013 01:03 PM

Is that last image a view of the saw from the right but rotated 90 degrees? And what’s that piece you’re holding in your hand?
Fromt these three pics – the wingnut just holds the long tube that goes down to hold the blade guide. You adjust that up or down depending on the height of the wood you are cutting so it sits just above the thickness of the wood. It looks like your spring adjusting lever is that piece in the last pic that on the side of the green part about 1/4” above where your finger touches the green. It’s a piece of metal with a long thin bar coming off of it to the right in the picture (which would be down in real life?)
When you loosen that piece of metal with the bar, are you able to pull the tube that holds the jaw up/down?

I have no idea what part of the tool the second pic is from or the piece you’re holding in your hand. Sorry.

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john111

68 posts in 652 days


#10 posted 04-22-2013 02:01 PM

Thanks for the advice guys! Joe that is the front top plate removed. Bruce I think you are right I have been leaning that way. I’ll just use the motor and scrap the rest. I do not plan on doing alot of scrolling. Everyonce in awhile you know. Thanks again!

-- john111

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john111

68 posts in 652 days


#11 posted 04-26-2013 01:41 PM

Bruce I just finished taking the parts I want off. I’m taking your advice and making a 9” disc sander with the parts. Thanks!

-- john111

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john111

68 posts in 652 days


#12 posted 04-30-2013 12:49 PM

Finished my disc sander. I am happy with the results somewhat. I just have to attach the tilt mechanism that i robbed from the old scroll saw. It is a 9” disc sander with dust control. The only thing I would do different is make it easier to change the the paper. The way I have it now is you have four twist knobs to undo to get the disc out. I think I’

ll change that today! Thanks for the advice guys! This cost 30 bucks total with the paper!

-- john111

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