band saw help

i’m not sure but i borrowed someones bandsaw once and i had the same problem. not really sure what it is but i am interested to find out.

Cant they just be flipped and turned around?

-- Sometimes when I am building something and it is out of square, I just bend my square.

it’s a circle, so then the blades would be facing the back of the saw and not the front.

They are inside out…
hold both sides of the blade out in front of you off the saw and in the air and with both hands, one hand on one side of the blade and one hand on the other, might should use gloves/safety glasses and twist outward with wrists and thumbs on both sides simultaneously until the whole blade flips all the way around, like turning it inside out, except in this case it is “right side in” :) now the teeth on the right hand side should be facing down.

-- Frank, Little River/Academy, Texas , http://www.allthingsrustix.com

that’s funny! thanks splinteers.

I was going to say the same as Splinters!

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

no problem, anytime….

-- Frank, Little River/Academy, Texas , http://www.allthingsrustix.com

Once you get the blade flipped “outside in”, you will need to determine the blade’s “leade” in order to successfully resaw. Every bandsaw blade has it’s own leade, cutting more aggressively on one side than the other.

Take a board thats about 3/4” x 4” x 36” and scribe a line approximately down the middle the full length, parallel to the edges. Then, carefully by hand, run the blade down this line half way down the board. You will probably notice that the board is situated at an angle to the table top. You have now defined the blade’s leade. Without moving the board, clamp it in place, and position the bandsaw’s fence along the edge of the board. Set the fence to this angle, and you are ready to accurately resaw. If you don’t do this proceedure, the blade will probably wander all over the place and likely bind.

You will also find that a featherboard placed just before the blade will greatly improve the results.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

hey iowa, i kind of get what you are sayinhg. why would a featherboard improve the results? isn’t the fence about all I can do to accurately resaw strips of wood?

i don’t get what you mean when saying “carefully, by hand, run the blade down the line”, you mean on the saw or off the saw? how will that tell me if the board is situated at an angle on the tabletop? the tabletop is square to the blade because the fence is and it’s also set at zero degrees. so what are you talkin about?

thanks,
bt

poser:

Take the fence off the bandsaw table and set it aside. Then, take the board, as described above, and set it flat on the table and carefully, by hand, saw down the line until you are about 1/2 way down the board. Due to the blade’s unique “leade”, you will probably notice that the board is situated at somewhat of an angle on the table. Thus you have defined the leade for that particular blade.

Without disturbing the board, and the angle to which it is laying, carefully clamp it in place. Then, get the fence, loosen it’s adjustment screws, and place it against the clamped board and tighten the screws. Now you have a fence that is perfectly adjusted to compensate for the leade of the blade. Note: If you change blades, you will have to go through this procedure all over again.

If your bandsaw table can accomodate a feather board, you can adjust it so that it presses the stock that you are resawing against the fence. Position the feather board just before the blade so as not to “squeeze” the wood against the blade.

I hope this helps.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"