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sharpening chisels

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Forum topic by mariva57 posted 470 days ago 1013 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mariva57

421 posts in 599 days


470 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: sharpening

I bought the Sharp 3000. I would like to sharpen this set of
chisels short of the Crown, which have a width respectively of 6-12-19-25 mm.
I tried to measure the angle of cut with the digital goniometer, and I found that from 6 to 12mm measured at an angle of 31.2 ° while the 19-25mm and measured 28.5 °.
I would like to know from you what angle I have to set.

-- The common man thinks. The wise man is silent. The stupid man discusses.


11 replies so far

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5242 posts in 1193 days


#1 posted 470 days ago

The WS should have pre set angle stops at 25° and 30°. You could split the difference in the current bevel and sharpen on the 30° setting.

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1255 posts in 778 days


#2 posted 470 days ago

With the WorkSharp, you’re going to have to choose one of the preset angles and regrind the bevel. Fortunately, you only do this once. I bought an extra glass wheel to mount 80 and 100 grit paper for regrinding. Then I have a 200/400 wheel, and a 600/1000 wheel, with a leather hone wheel with green compound to do final polishing.

I have a set of Crown paring chisels I bought a few years ago. They’re good steel and pretty, but the factory grind wasn’t square, and the backs not particularly flat. The point is, regrinding the bevel is probably a good idea anyway. Be careful when you’re flattening the backs—always put it on the spinning disc from back to front to avoid touching the cutting edge.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View sikrap's profile

sikrap

986 posts in 1954 days


#3 posted 470 days ago

My suggestion would be to regrind them at 25 degrees on the worksharp up to 1000 grit until you get a complete bevel and then do a secondary bevel of 30 degrees with the higher grits. You’ll find that the secondary bevel of 30 degrees helps maintain a sharp edge longer.

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

View JUC's profile

JUC

80 posts in 485 days


#4 posted 470 days ago

I do not think that those digital bevel boxes are all that accurate. If you measure the same angel 3 times you will get 3 different answers. I agree with sikrap 25° then a secondary bevel of 30°. I think you will be happy with that.
Good Luck,
Jeffrey

-- If no one will ever see it, all the more reason to make it right

View mariva57's profile

mariva57

421 posts in 599 days


#5 posted 463 days ago

These days I made some tests with sharpening chisels
little value and the result was good, I also made ​​the discs mdf to to paste the abrasive paper (glue spry
removable) it worked but when replacing
the abrasive paper disk has arisen this problem. (see photo)
Where did I go wrong?

-- The common man thinks. The wise man is silent. The stupid man discusses.

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1255 posts in 778 days


#6 posted 463 days ago

Yeah, you can’t use paper with the MDF discs, I don’t think, because you’ll ruin the disc when you pull it off, as you found out.

What you want is powdered grit and polishing compound applied to the surface. See Stumpy’s article on his WorkSharp 3000 stand for details.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

10357 posts in 1601 days


#7 posted 463 days ago

Try a little heat to get the paper off. A heat gun or hair dryer has helped me.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View paratrooper34's profile

paratrooper34

760 posts in 1547 days


#8 posted 463 days ago

Mariva, the adhesive discs are better suited for the glass plates. The MDF ones use polishing compound as Shampeon pointed out.

You will find lots of useful information on this site, by a member of LJs.

http://www.stumpynubs.com/worksharp-3000.html

-- Mike

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1255 posts in 778 days


#9 posted 463 days ago

Thanks, Mike. I was too lazy to look up the actual URL.

If you really want to use paper with your MDF discs, I suppose you could laminate some melamine to the top and bottom. But the polishing compound is easier, and possibly cheaper anyway.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View mariva57's profile

mariva57

421 posts in 599 days


#10 posted 463 days ago

Thank you all for the help.

-- The common man thinks. The wise man is silent. The stupid man discusses.

View Ross's profile

Ross

110 posts in 567 days


#11 posted 462 days ago

Remember to flatten the backs of the chisels before honing the edges. It is a very time consuming task that only needs to be done once. With the exception of my mortise chisels all of my chisels are sharpened at 30 degrees with no micro-bevel. My mortise chisel bevels vary depending on the width of the chisel anywhere from 24 degrees to 32 degrees also with no micro-bevel.

-- "Man Plans and God Laughs"

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