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kickback paws digging in

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Forum topic by Gittyup posted 473 days ago 475 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gittyup

52 posts in 554 days


473 days ago

I just bought a new Grizzly 1023RWL two days ago. I got it set up and checked out. Parallelism was dead on for both fence and blade right out of the box. Could not detect any run-out with my dial gauge. Everything was just about perfect except the vertical stop was 0.005 out. I adjusted it to 0.002 and call it good as I’m not sure the supplied blade is flatter than that. Will readjust when I get my Freud blade. I haven’t cut much yet. But seems like it’s going to be a heck of saw.

I am having one problem. When I lower the blade the kickback paws dig into the table and hold back/stress the blade guard. Is this normal? Do I have to raise the paws before lowering the blade?

Also, the vacuum shroud around the blade may turn out to be a PITA. While assembling, I dropped a screwdriver down in it. Had to take the hose out completely to get it out. Then I dropped the blade nut in it too. Luckily it rolled all the way out.

Has anyone made a zero clearance insert that let’s you use the blade guard?

-- tel


4 replies so far

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nwbusa

1016 posts in 883 days


#1 posted 473 days ago

I think that usually with those types of guards, you don’t lower the blade all the way down with the guard on. At least, that’s the way I’ve seen them work on other saws. With the guard on, there’s no problem with leaving some of the blade above the table. I personally don’t use my blade guard/pawls, so it’s entirely possible I’m incorrect on this one.

And to make a ZCI that accommodates the riving knife (and hence the guard), make your blade cut as usual (raise it up through the ZCI) to max height, then shut down the saw, lower the blade, remove the ZCI, install the standard throat plate, set your rip fence to match the ZCI kerf, raise the blade, power up the saw, and feed the ZCI in as far as needed to cut the riving knife kerf. This will likely (depending on your saw / RK setup) extend all the way to first kerf you made. Hope that makes sense.

-- John, BC, Canada

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runswithscissors

894 posts in 622 days


#2 posted 473 days ago

To clarify what nwbusa is saying, swap ends on the new ZCI. Lay it over the blade (the blade sticking up through the new slot), and move the fence over so it will cut exactly in that slot. I’d suggest using a featherboard to keep it snug against the fence (won’t be the most secure feeling move, pushing on that rounded end), and be careful not to cut too far.

Hope I didn’t just muddy the waters here. If I misunderstood you, nwbusa, my apologies.

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nwbusa

1016 posts in 883 days


#3 posted 473 days ago

Nope, we’re saying the same thing runswithscissors :)

-- John, BC, Canada

View Gittyup's profile

Gittyup

52 posts in 554 days


#4 posted 473 days ago

Thanks guys. I will try you suggestions on the ZCI. On my hold saw I never used the blade guard. But, I’m going to try to use it on this one. It is pretty nice. And the saw is powerful. I wouldn’t want to get hit by a flying object off of that beast.

Regarding the Pawls, They dig in even if I just lower the blade say 1/2”, not all the way down. I guess I’ll just have to play with it some more. Maybe I am trying to push it too low.

-- tel

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