LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

Uunifence, anyone figure a way to use both sides of the fence?

3K views 37 replies 7 participants last post by  wormil 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have a right tilt Unisaw with a Unifence and occasionally want to use the other side of the fence, I'm thinking of buying another fence face and attaching it on the right side of the fence. I have figure out a way to attach it but was wondering if any of you have done something like this?
 
#3 ·
It takes a little longer than that, on mine at least, I would have to move the shims that keep it square with the table. Both sides take different shims, I would rather set it up once and leave it.
 
#4 ·
You lost me mine has allen head screws that adjust against to fence rail to square the fence with the blade I use no shims and it cuts the same on either side of the blade I have not had to adjust the fence since I bought the saw over 20 years ago . 30 seconds tops to swap sides as long as I don't drop a wing nut in the sawdust.
 
#5 ·
Mine has that too but the fence itself has no adjustment to adjust the angle of the face to the table, I had to shim mine in order to keep what ever I'm cutting perpendicular to the blade, before I shimed it I would have to angle the blade to match the angle of the fence face, its not horrible but if i ripped a piece to tall for the blade and flipped it over the two cuts wouldnt line up, once i shimmed the fence it works perfect. Put a square against the fence face and the table top, if yours is square you're lucky, I haven't seen to many that didn't need shimming.
 
#7 ·
Fortunately I do not have that problem as long as the blade is 90 degrees to the table the fence parallel to the blade. I to have used my saw to resaw thick stock it often shows a slight line where the 2 cuts meet but we are talking thousandths of an inch and I chalk most of that up to the way I held the board against the fence. You are missing half of the usefulness of your fence if you must mess around with shims, I am constantly moving my fence ahead and back, as well as changing to the low profile side and using it on the other side of the blade. I would contact Delta even if the fence is old it should not work that way. If they won't help you I would get a good double cut milling file and rework the surface of the cast iron part of the fence it could be just a burr or some thick paint causing the problem.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the info, I have considered having a friend mill the cast aluminum but his mill is about 12 miles away and I can see myself running back and fourth having him take just a little more off. I may try to work it by hand but I can tell some of it is in the actual extruded fence face, I think it has a slight twist but my eyes aren't that great! Can get a perfect cut with it shimmed as long as I hold it tight to the fence, I recently cut 198 3/16Ă—1.5Ă—48" strips for a rocker I built and they all looked great. I have no complaints for the Unifence other than I can't use both sides easily, well at least easier than the way I have to do it now. I would really like to switch sides without stopping. I got the fence used years ago so I doubt Delta will help, mine is actually the older version, it has the two small Allen screws for adjusting the fence, I believe the newer models have ones that looks to be about 1" diameter. The model I have is the only type I've seen in person. Thanks again!
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Airspeed. ALL Unifences have adjusting screws in the main fence casting above the rail, one on each side. I have had both the old and new. You should never have to shim a Unifence unless you mounted the rail to the front of the saw crooked. I agree with checking for burrs also. I've had a Unisaw fence on my saw for almost 20 years. then I bought and sold another saw that had a Unifence, now I'm sitting on a used fence and rail deciding what to do with it. In my opinion they are a great fence.
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
My rail is perfect (as perfect as it can get) so that's not the problem in this case. Like I said mine is the older version, I can see area in the casting where I could drill and tap for such an adjustment but they're not there now. I need to look at a newer one and see what they used for pads, I may just do that! I would still like to be able to switch sides without removing the face. I put wheels where the foot was mounted so the extra weight wouldn't bug me.
 
#13 ·
Sawsuker, hey I'm glad you mentioned it, I never paid enough attention to the newer ones, I would have never noticed how they added those later. It looks like a simple upgrade that I'm going to work on tonight. Could you show me what they used for pads underneath? I am pretty sure the front rail is the same on all of them, I bought a 60" new when I got the fence, it had a really short one when I got it.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the pic, I may be in luck! I just happen to have some nylon Allen head set screws somewhere, I believe they're 3/8" which might work out great. If I can find them! Thanks again for the pic!
 
#17 ·
All very interesting. I didn't know there ever was a Unifence with Rockwell labeling. Mine is about 15 years old and newer than the pics here. Sometimes it'd be nice to have a 2 sided fence but the ability to flip it and have a fence for thin ripping more than makes up for it. One of the cool features is that you can easily make speciality fences but I've never felt the need.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
When I got my Unifence, some nitwit had replaced the top nylon adjusting set screws with regular STEEL set screws. That didn't sound good at all sliding across the rail. When I figured out the problem, I got some plastic setscrews for the 1/2"x13 USS (coarse) threaded holes. They worked much better until I got some OEM Delta nylon screws, which slide pretty smoothly, especially after waxing the rail.

Airspeed - Out of curiosity, what does the near end of your fence ride on the rail with?

Incidentally, PeachTree sells a nice replacement fence for the Unifence system that will take a lot of different attachments. I plan to get one some day - http://ptreeusa.com/uni_t_fence.htm

Bill
 
#22 ·
Thanks! I was going to use the 3/8" nylon screws I have but I think I'll go for 1/2, I can imagine smaller ones would wear out faster. I found some nylon 1/2 13 set screws on amazon, $5 for 100, if my local hardware store doesn't have any ill order from them. I guess I'll keep a few and I'll pass out the rest. Thanks!
 
#23 ·
Airspeed - When you get the setscrews, file the ends to a slight crown and sand them smooth. that will be pretty much like the OEM parts.

You can see the screws on this diagram (go to the pdf version and zoom) http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/delta/36-905 but they are about $6 each and are backordered, like all kinds of other Delta parts. Here's assembly instructions for a newer Unisaw that includes the Unifence assembly and adjustments if you scroll down a bit: http://www.leestyron.com/pdf/delman.pdf

Bill
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
Here's a couple pictures of one of the leveling screws from my Unifence. Sorry about the fuzzy images - my phone didn't like to focus that close. The screw length is 9/16", which makes the top of it level with the fence body. The first picture shows the slight crown on the end of the screw that I was talking about.

Tire Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Automotive wheel system Rim


Door Wood Grey Gas Circle


Bill
 

Attachments

#26 ·
I have the nylon set screws on the way but me being impatient decided to experiment! I dug up a pair of steel 1/2Ă—13 set screws and some nylon spacers from another project, I ground the steel screws shorter and have them glued up to the nylon spacers, when the epoxy hardens ill sand them like your photo. I couldn't wait! I couldn't find anything handy to mix the epoxy so I used a sucker stick, I'll reward myself by eating the sucker! I'll replace these when I get the nylon screws but wanted to see how well my fence sits without the shims. Thanks again for the photos!
Tableware Dishware Wood Serveware Ingredient


Motor vehicle Gas Auto part Machine Nut


Wood Gas Circle Metal Plumbing
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top