Tenons on a router table

It works well in fact. Gary Rogowski covers this a lot in his
book Router Joinery.

Normally if I were doing tenons on the router table I would
cut the shoulder with a tablesaw or hand saw, waste off
most of the cheeks on the bandsaw, and then use the
router table with a fence to get the thickness of the
tenons uniform and correct the shoulders if necessary.

A combination of paper shims and hand pressure allows
you to control the cut depth precisely.

-- http://amherstcabinets.com - also a marketing consultant with expertise in direct response marketing for woodworking and online businesses - http://COPYMATCH.COM

Loren, Do you set the bit high and use shims under the work?????

(Practically neighbors if you are still in Amherst, your profile wasn’t clear)

-- Fred, Springfield, Ma

Any method that works for you is correct.

Just because you don’t hear about it doesn’t mean it won’t work. I use a dado set, because I have good dado set. Since you have a bandsaw and router table and bits, you’re good to go! <g>

You may find that creating the shoulders on the table saw, with a regular blade and stop blocks, might make the routing even faster.

-- - Real men read directions

You can purchase a tenoning jig from Grizzly for 60 bucks that works great. I should know because I have 2 of them. One I keep set for 1/4” tenons on 3/4” stock for rails and the other for 1/2” tenons on 1” stock for stretchers. That’s just me, though. I could get by with one if I had the patience to take the 2 minutes to make the adjustment. I should do a review on this product. Excuse me while I fire up my saw….

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville

Do you own a jointer? http://lumberjocks.com/topics/3988

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

bbqking…

How do you tenon a 5, 6 or even 8 foot rail?

Every time I almost buy one of those, the next project is a side board, dining table, etc… While the jig would work fine on the doors, and side parts, I’d still need a second setup for the front and rear parts. So, I end up using the Dado King and my shop-made dado sled on all of the tenons and spending the jig money on beer and the lady. <g>

I can’t remember the last project I built that at least some of the parts would not clear my ceiling in a tenon jig.

-- - Real men read directions

When I have cut tenon shoulders on a router table I have usually
done it by putting a 1/2” bit in the router and setting it to “plane”
off the shoulders.

By flipping the work this produces a perfectly centered tenon. Mark
out the tenon on your stock and set the router bit at the line
or a little less. Then put a piece of paper folded in half under the
piece and rout the cheeks and see what you have. If it’s too thick
(it should be) try it with one thickness of paper… and so on. After
you take the paper away then you can get a little more removal
by pushing down harder on the piece.

Your stock will vary in thickness so that is why the paper comes
in handy. When you do it this way you stand a good chance of
getting your tenons of uniform thickness, even if the stock
varies by 1/64th or more.

-- http://amherstcabinets.com - also a marketing consultant with expertise in direct response marketing for woodworking and online businesses - http://COPYMATCH.COM

And yeah, I am in Amherst – just moved here. Look me up sometime.

-- http://amherstcabinets.com - also a marketing consultant with expertise in direct response marketing for woodworking and online businesses - http://COPYMATCH.COM

BeechPilotBarry- Sorry I offended you by mentioning the tool which will remain unnamed. bbqKing.

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville