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New to Me Jet CTAS-10-1 3HP needs some Restoration all advice welcome

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Forum topic by Goodski posted 479 days ago 1567 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Goodski

9 posts in 1288 days


479 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw refurbishing question

So after suffering with a ryobi portable table saw for a long time and checking craigslist everyday for I have found this cabinet saw. It is old has some surface rust, a broken power cord but the Iron top is flat and it seems like most of the parts are there( fence is there not pictured, miter) it doesn’t have a blade guard or a splitter. Looks like it is missing a lock bolt for the height adjustment. Both adjustment wheels run smooth and after just a little wd-40 work even better. I didn’t get a chance to test the motor but was assured that it worked the last time it was run and that something would be worked out if it didn’t, and for 100 bucks it was worth the risk.
So I have found anything I could on the internet along with buying the owners manual from ozark woodworking.com. I watched the series on youtube where the guy refurbishes the 1940’s Unisaw which gave me some good starting points.

So For anyone that has experience with this saw or restoring older saws any advice is welcome

where or how to get parts I may need,
any aftermarket parts that may make the saw safer
Hopefully my 100 dollars isn’t wasted but at least I have a new project.


11 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

1721 posts in 1231 days


#1 posted 479 days ago

where or how to get parts I may need,

http://owwm.org/ especially the BOYD section

any aftermarket parts that may make the saw safer

http://www.theborkstore.com/

not the cheapest alternative, but from what i’ve read, well received by the marketplace, if it’s applicable to that specific saw. i think the fabricator offers a 10% discount to menbers of this forum or woodnet.net.

then there’s a plain splitter from the sawcenter in MA. for some reason, their site won’t respond this morning. they sell a splitter for unisaws that’s ~$60 shipped and looks like this:

http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/woodworking/deltasplitter/

and then there’s the shark guard:

http://leestyron.com/

again, not cheap, but also well received by it’s users. i think he offers a discount to members of the bt2central.com forum.

and if needed, those round rail fences, again similar to those found on earlier unisaws, are not well thought of. a delta t2 fence, for < $200, would add significantly to the ease of use of the saw and potentially it’s accuracy.

http://www.toolmarts.com/del_36-t30.html?gclid=CNzRk9DztbYCFQvnnAodU1IAxw

probably most importantly, is to take the time and ensure that both the blade and fence are parallel to the same miter slot. this will help prevent a work piece form becoming pinched between the fence and the blade, which could initiate a kick back event, with potentially dire consequences.

add a good 40T combination blade and start making sawdust. and post some pics of the saw as its refurbished.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1978 days


#2 posted 479 days ago

Great buy @ $100 IMO. The cast iron wings and handwheels are worth at least that much!

I’ll pretty much echo Toolie’s advice. Clean up the rust, lube the gears, check the bearings, align the blade, replace the cord, blow the dust out of the motor and switches, get a good blade or two, look into a splitter, and fire it up. If it runs great, it’s worthy of a fence upgrade IMO.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2724 posts in 1846 days


#3 posted 479 days ago

I have that same saw. It is a great saw and for $100, a steel. It will take some TLC to get it back to good condition. You will need a new fence. I have the Beiesemeyer fence on mine. I’ve had it for over 25 years and it is still as good as when it was new. It gets a lot of use and the only thing I had to do was to replace the belts two years ago. In my opinion, it is just as good as a Delta Unisaw.

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1243 posts in 551 days


#4 posted 478 days ago

I say that’s gloat worthy. at that price there is lots of wiggle room for mods. to start I would clean the top, fix the cord, and make some dust as is. after making sure everything checks out, motor bearings, ect ect a new paint job if you are going that far into it. Then reset it for accuracy, and I would go for a new fence. A T-square style will do wonders. I have the shop fox fence, it works great. maybe I am off base, but I won’t use a guard on a TS. I have just had to many experiences where the guard is just in the way. As for a riving knife I don’t know what it does, maybe I am missing out. I wouldn’t start order any goodies till everything checks out. There maybe trouble and you could be stuck with goodies and no saw to put them on.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1978 days


#5 posted 478 days ago

”As for a riving knife, I don’t know what it does…”

A riving knife prevents the kerf from closing up at the back of the blade, which in turn reduces the chance of kickback, which is the leading cause of TS accidents. It also keeps small off cuts from contacting the back of the blade and becoming projectiles. It’s one of the more effective safety devices. A good splitter essentially does the same job, but it’s not quite as effective, and is more likely to get removed.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1243 posts in 551 days


#6 posted 478 days ago

that’s good to know. I have never had that problem, but I may see what I can find for my PM66.

View Kwit's profile

Kwit

80 posts in 561 days


#7 posted 478 days ago

It’s been about a year since I refurbed my Unisaw – I had most of the parts – but the condition was similar to your JET

There are lots of resources on the web to help with your refurb – but here’s what I did

Take off the cast iron tabletop – blow out with compressor. and use an old toothbrush for the inside – treat with rust remover/conditioner if needed. Dry lube on trunion gears and corkscrews

LOTS OF SANDPAPER – depending on the rust amount – I used a random orbital sander, changing disc very often- I started with 60 to get the first layer off – then 80, 100 , 150, 180, 220, 300

After using a 1hp Craftsman for 2 years – my UNISAW is an absolute dream

GOOD LUCK AND ENJOY!

-- don't talk about it - be about it

View Goodski's profile

Goodski

9 posts in 1288 days


#8 posted 478 days ago

Thanks everyone for your replies I was able to get a start on Friday removing the rust from the top and got the cord fixed which I will instal today.

Still a little work to be done but it’s slowly coming off. Ill try and remember to post more pictures as I progress and hopefully get it running here soon

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3839 posts in 931 days


#9 posted 478 days ago

we are working on the same saw… Your’s appears to have the original fence.

I’ve blogged about my rehab here

Jet no longer supports the CTAS line with parts, but most of the JTAS parts are identical.

I’ve got the manual as a .pdf file and the e-mail address of a guy at JET who is very knowledgeable. Send me a PM with your e-mail address if you want me to forward that info. to you.

Good luck with the saw.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Goodski's profile

Goodski

9 posts in 1288 days


#10 posted 478 days ago

So I just got the cord replaced plugged it in and it works.

View Goodski's profile

Goodski

9 posts in 1288 days


#11 posted 478 days ago

The bearings sound good and the motor is quiet. Now I am super excited about this find.

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