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Forum topic by Vjeko posted 04-05-2013 06:42 PM 1146 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Vjeko

128 posts in 2069 days


04-05-2013 06:42 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I’m interested in making a “modern” built-in wardrobe such as those
on this web page:
http://www.ormario.com/fotografije-unutrasnjosti-ormara.html
using more wood/plywood materials and have a few basic questions
maybe someone can help out.

If you look at the gallery of pictures on the linked page , the sliding
door frames are made of alu profiles with various materials used in the frame
to form the doors. The doors and alu profiles on which they slide are attached
to the floor/ceiling and are separate to the internals/shelves etc. of the wardrobe.

What I’m interested in is a wardrobe from floor to ceiling without
a back where the floor is visible (you can flip through the photos on
the above linked web page to see a few examples).

My questions:

(a)What hardware is used to fix the verticals (floor to ceiling
and those from shelf to ceiling or floor) to the floor/ceiling ?

(b)Do any verticals or shelves need to be fixed to the wall
for stability ? (as far as I can see, the end verticals are fixed to
walls and attached fixed shelves give stability but not sure what other
fixing is needed)

(c)In case there is no wall on one end of the wardrobe, how
is the plywood/wood side which is in it’s place fixed to the
floor/ceiling/wall ?

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia


3 replies so far

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1624 days


#1 posted 04-05-2013 09:40 PM

Treat it as two separate entities, doors and interior. You don’t need to have any vertical parts of the interior going right up to the ceiling. If you make the height of the interior 300mm less than the ceiling, you can get one continuous shelf running the whole length of the wardrobe, without having to worry about fixing it to the ceiling. You can incorporate a rail at the back of the top shelf to stop the shelf sagging and use that for putting fixings into the wall.
If you are going full height on the interior, the tops can just be left without fixing to the ceiling, maybe just caulk around them, but it will be much more difficult to fit than a unit that is not full height especially if the ceiling is not great.

The interior does not need to be fixed to the floor. Attaching it to the wall is sufficient and then let gravity take over. The weight and a few fixings at the back into the wall will make sure it doesn’t move. If you don’t put rails in to support any of the long shelves, you will end up with sagging problems seeing as there won’t be a back on it. Put fixings through the rails and into the wall. If you don’t incorporate rails for support, just use metal worktop brackets to attach interior to wall in places where they won’t be seen.

If there is no wall behind part of the shelving, you should be able to leave that part unattached as long as it is connected to another piece of shelving that is attached to the wall.

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Vjeko

128 posts in 2069 days


#2 posted 04-06-2013 06:06 AM

renners, thanks for the reply/info. By “rails” – I guess you meant incorporating rail pieces above or below shelves between the verticals ?

I took a closer look at the photos in the link I gave and looked at the picture with the piano & wardrobe which has red color in the doors (15th photo from start) – there I see some type of brackets I guess (white “blobs” bit below ceiling – looks like fancy brackets with covers) which are fixing the verticals to the wall.

Few things which are still not clear:
(i)If you look at that 15th photo, I am having doubts that the verticals are not attached to the ceiling with
those clothes hangers there – the verticals would certainly bend under load ;) ?

(ii)For the case that the wardrobe doesn’t have a side wall on one side ( i.e. only the outside vertical is there) and there is no back nor “shelf” on the floor – would you need any additional fixing of this outside vertical other than brackets to the wall (fixing to floor/ceiling) ?

(iii)An additional thing I need to consider into the design is that I have hydronic floor heating (tiles on top, followed by a few cm. of mortar, hydronic pipes and insulation ) i.e. a floating floor.
The specs for the insulation quote a load of 80kN/m2

- if I need to fix something to the floor, I can’t drill too deep (maybe can glue)
-I guess if I intend to pile a lot of weight (eg books) in the wardrobe, I need to make the vertical
spacing a lot smaller to distribute the weight more so the wardrobe doesn’t sink ;)
- Maybe need slotted holes for fixing to the wall in case there is some sinking ;)
Maybe I’m over-thinking this – it can’t be the first floor heating system with a heavy wardobe
on top ;)

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

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evalyn

5 posts in 531 days


#3 posted 04-06-2013 08:37 AM

This was a really quality post. In theory I’d like to write like this too – taking time and real effort to make a good article…

-- http://www.houston-airconditioners.net/

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