How to cut tapered feet

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Forum topic by Craftsman70 posted 04-05-2013 04:49 PM 1584 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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243 posts in 1962 days

04-05-2013 04:49 PM

I’m trying to figured out what kind of jig I could use to make feet like this:

9 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile


116576 posts in 3414 days

#1 posted 04-05-2013 04:58 PM

How about a table saw sled just wide enough to hold your legs length 4” with the sled turned at the angel you cut each side and rotate the stock to taper each side, it might be necessary to tape one of the off cuts back on for the last cut.

-- Custom furniture

View JoeRPhilly's profile


168 posts in 1989 days

#2 posted 04-05-2013 04:59 PM

I think you could do it on the bandsaw and use masking tape to tape the cutoffs back to the workpiece. That way you will continue to have a flat surface to work with. Or a taper jig on the table saw, but with a piece that small, I think the bandsaw would be best

View Grandpa's profile


3258 posts in 2513 days

#3 posted 04-05-2013 05:02 PM

I might be working on a way to make this shape on the end of a larger piece of stock then cutting this off the large peice. I working with large stock if possible then I can keem my hands and fingers further away from moving parts.

View ADHDan's profile


800 posts in 1946 days

#4 posted 04-05-2013 05:20 PM

I built a short hold-down miter slot jig (similar to a table saw jointing jig) that I used to cut tapers on two opposing sides of some bench legs. I just marked the taper line on each side, lined it up with the edge of the jig (which is exactly where the cut occurs), and ran each side through the saw.

Perhaps you could use something like that to cut tapers on two opposing faces, and then shim the piece with the offcuts and some carpet tape to cut the other two tapers? (You’d need to shim to keep the piece square to the table, since it would be resting on the newly-tapered faces.)

I wish I had a picture of the jig I made, because it’s really useful for edge jointing and tapering shorter pieces. It’s very much like a typical jointer jig made with toggle clamps, but instead of using toggle clamps it uses a long piece of MDF to hold down the entire length of the workpiece.

Picture something like this – – but half as long, and with a long piece of MDF attached to the toggle clamps so that the entire workpiece is held down. But I didn’t use toggle clamps, I rigged up a sturdier lockdown mechanism by threading bolts through an overhang on the jig, into a t-slot in the MDF.

My description probably doesn’t make much sense, but I can post pictures of the jig later if this sounds useful.

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View Marcus's profile


1161 posts in 1857 days

#5 posted 04-05-2013 05:28 PM

Im with Grandpa and would cut this out of a larger/longer stock and just use a taper jig on the table saw.

View a1Jim's profile


116576 posts in 3414 days

#6 posted 04-05-2013 05:40 PM

Another way to do this is to use a tenoning jig and tilt the blade at the correct angle. this too would require that you use longer material.

-- Custom furniture

View madts's profile


1816 posts in 2177 days

#7 posted 04-05-2013 06:33 PM

I am all for the band saw approach. Less waste, safer and no setup jigs etc.

-- Thor and Odin are still the greatest of Gods.

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

27075 posts in 2175 days

#8 posted 04-05-2013 07:54 PM

Taper jig on the table saw.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View Craftsman70's profile


243 posts in 1962 days

#9 posted 04-05-2013 08:04 PM

Thanks for all the input. I’ll be using a little of all of the ideas. I’m going to go with the taper jig idea and work with longer stock. Keep the foot at the end of the board and then slice it off once its all tapered. Thanks everyeone!

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