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Problems with my Ryobi 6 1/8" jointer

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Forum topic by sbuckle posted 383 days ago 1252 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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sbuckle

41 posts in 543 days


383 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: jointer planer setup advice question help

Hi all!
I am looking for a little advice with a problem with my Ryobi 6 1/8” jointer. I believe I have set up the jointer properly but when I joint the edge of a piece of wood that is equal in width when I start but after a couple of passes one end, I believe the trailing end becomes smaller in width than the leading edge. I have tried jointing one direction and then flipping the piece and jointing the other direction to try to even out the cuts but I end up going against the grain and making a mess of the edge….further jointing! I have increased and decreased the depth of cut with the same results. Might be my setup, might be my technique, very frustrating.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Steve B.


10 replies so far

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Tomj

204 posts in 887 days


#1 posted 383 days ago

Do you mean that the stock you are jointing is getting thinner on the trailing end when measured from the face/edge you are jointing to the opposite side facing up towards the ceiling?

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Tomj

204 posts in 887 days


#2 posted 383 days ago

If so this is normal, because your jointer is designed to plane one edge perpendicular to another edge. It will taper a board in relation to the side facing up from the knives because there is no reference point for the knives to plane parallel with the opposite side.

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sbuckle

41 posts in 543 days


#3 posted 383 days ago

Tomj: In reference to your fist post…yes!

In reference to your second post….whaaaat??lol. I am not sure what you mean. I would think if I run a flat edge through the jointer that it would take off the depth of cut for the entire length of the piece. I.E. 1/32 off at both ends for the entire length. Do I make sense??

Thanks for your reply!

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Tomj

204 posts in 887 days


#4 posted 383 days ago

It will only be square to the side facing the fence. It will not be in perfect plane with the side facing up away from the knives. A planer will do that. This is why you can also taper stock on a jointer. I’m sure someone else could explain this better.

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 543 days


#5 posted 383 days ago

Somewhere in the middle of this page (link below) is a section on tapering. It may be the outfeed table set too high. But you should read the whole article first and look at your boards closer and make sure you’re actually getting taper, not snipe, and/or not just the result of the jointer doing its job on a bowed piece of wood.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/jntrprobfxs.html

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pintodeluxe

3036 posts in 1318 days


#6 posted 382 days ago

Just use the jointer to create a flat edge. Then go to the tablesaw to rip the board to a consistent width.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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Tomj

204 posts in 887 days


#7 posted 382 days ago

The link JustJoe put up (thank you) Explains it well.

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ssteadin

8 posts in 702 days


#8 posted 382 days ago

How long is the board that you are trying to plane? The bed on this jointer is relatively short and planing long boards can be difficult.

The technique is simple in concept but not necessarily easy…and definitely gets better with practice. As the board edge passes over the cutting head it must be held flat to the outfeed table and the face must be held firmly against the fence. Forcing the edge to be flat on the infeed table can be counterproductive depending on how straight your edge is. I only use the jointer to get one straight edge. Then I use the table saw to get two parallel edges.

If you have a straight edge that is perpendicular to the face that was against the fence then the tool has done its job.

View sbuckle's profile

sbuckle

41 posts in 543 days


#9 posted 382 days ago

Thanks for the link and suggestions! I am jointing 12” to 16” – 3/4” Cherry and Walnut 1 1/2 to 3” wide. For clock legs. Presently I joint one edge flat and then I rip them on the table saw to 1/16” over final width. Then I go back to the jointer/planer to clean up the edge. This is where the problem starts. If the width is 1 9/16 to start over the length of the piece, after jointing one end is wider than the other. I have resorted to eliminating the final jointing and set up my thickness planer to get all the pieces to the same thickness/width. This system works fine but….....the jointing would be so much easier and faster. I am reading over the article again and then i am going out to “play” with the jointer and see what I can figure out!

Thanks again!

Steve B.

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Grandpa

2985 posts in 1181 days


#10 posted 382 days ago

I had the same problem when I got my jointer. I had worked the tables and fence over so everything was flat, coplanar and square. It made my wood turn into a football. I had never adjusted the knives in the cutterhead. I found that the problem was the knives were set deeper on on end than on the other end. On the next knife it might be the opposite etc. Set the knives to the outfeed table then try it. Your technique is about all that is left.

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