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Problems with my Ryobi 6 1/8" jointer

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Forum topic by sbuckle posted 04-05-2013 04:11 AM 5653 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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sbuckle

66 posts in 1498 days


04-05-2013 04:11 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer planer setup advice question help

Hi all!
I am looking for a little advice with a problem with my Ryobi 6 1/8” jointer. I believe I have set up the jointer properly but when I joint the edge of a piece of wood that is equal in width when I start but after a couple of passes one end, I believe the trailing end becomes smaller in width than the leading edge. I have tried jointing one direction and then flipping the piece and jointing the other direction to try to even out the cuts but I end up going against the grain and making a mess of the edge….further jointing! I have increased and decreased the depth of cut with the same results. Might be my setup, might be my technique, very frustrating.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Steve B.

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.


15 replies so far

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Tomj

204 posts in 1841 days


#1 posted 04-05-2013 05:38 AM

Do you mean that the stock you are jointing is getting thinner on the trailing end when measured from the face/edge you are jointing to the opposite side facing up towards the ceiling?

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Tomj

204 posts in 1841 days


#2 posted 04-05-2013 05:44 AM

If so this is normal, because your jointer is designed to plane one edge perpendicular to another edge. It will taper a board in relation to the side facing up from the knives because there is no reference point for the knives to plane parallel with the opposite side.

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sbuckle

66 posts in 1498 days


#3 posted 04-05-2013 03:55 PM

Tomj: In reference to your fist post…yes!

In reference to your second post….whaaaat??lol. I am not sure what you mean. I would think if I run a flat edge through the jointer that it would take off the depth of cut for the entire length of the piece. I.E. 1/32 off at both ends for the entire length. Do I make sense??

Thanks for your reply!

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

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Tomj

204 posts in 1841 days


#4 posted 04-05-2013 07:10 PM

It will only be square to the side facing the fence. It will not be in perfect plane with the side facing up away from the knives. A planer will do that. This is why you can also taper stock on a jointer. I’m sure someone else could explain this better.

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JustJoe

1554 posts in 1498 days


#5 posted 04-05-2013 07:19 PM

Somewhere in the middle of this page (link below) is a section on tapering. It may be the outfeed table set too high. But you should read the whole article first and look at your boards closer and make sure you’re actually getting taper, not snipe, and/or not just the result of the jointer doing its job on a bowed piece of wood.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/jntrprobfxs.html

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

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pintodeluxe

4852 posts in 2273 days


#6 posted 04-05-2013 07:46 PM

Just use the jointer to create a flat edge. Then go to the tablesaw to rip the board to a consistent width.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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Tomj

204 posts in 1841 days


#7 posted 04-05-2013 07:51 PM

The link JustJoe put up (thank you) Explains it well.

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ssteadin

8 posts in 1656 days


#8 posted 04-05-2013 08:10 PM

How long is the board that you are trying to plane? The bed on this jointer is relatively short and planing long boards can be difficult.

The technique is simple in concept but not necessarily easy…and definitely gets better with practice. As the board edge passes over the cutting head it must be held flat to the outfeed table and the face must be held firmly against the fence. Forcing the edge to be flat on the infeed table can be counterproductive depending on how straight your edge is. I only use the jointer to get one straight edge. Then I use the table saw to get two parallel edges.

If you have a straight edge that is perpendicular to the face that was against the fence then the tool has done its job.

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sbuckle

66 posts in 1498 days


#9 posted 04-05-2013 08:37 PM

Thanks for the link and suggestions! I am jointing 12” to 16” – 3/4” Cherry and Walnut 1 1/2 to 3” wide. For clock legs. Presently I joint one edge flat and then I rip them on the table saw to 1/16” over final width. Then I go back to the jointer/planer to clean up the edge. This is where the problem starts. If the width is 1 9/16 to start over the length of the piece, after jointing one end is wider than the other. I have resorted to eliminating the final jointing and set up my thickness planer to get all the pieces to the same thickness/width. This system works fine but….....the jointing would be so much easier and faster. I am reading over the article again and then i am going out to “play” with the jointer and see what I can figure out!

Thanks again!

Steve B.

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

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Grandpa

3256 posts in 2135 days


#10 posted 04-05-2013 10:04 PM

I had the same problem when I got my jointer. I had worked the tables and fence over so everything was flat, coplanar and square. It made my wood turn into a football. I had never adjusted the knives in the cutterhead. I found that the problem was the knives were set deeper on on end than on the other end. On the next knife it might be the opposite etc. Set the knives to the outfeed table then try it. Your technique is about all that is left.

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sbuckle

66 posts in 1498 days


#11 posted 09-05-2015 01:32 AM

I came back to this post after finding the link while looking for new blades for the jointer. I took all the suggestions and I set up everything and I have refined my technique and the planing is much better. Thanks for all your help !!

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

2227 posts in 1906 days


#12 posted 09-05-2015 02:27 AM

I hope you learned that tomj was right ,you joint one narrow edge (on a jointer)and make it square to the side that’s against the fence, then take that jointed edge to your table saw (put it against the table saw fence)and cut the other edge parallel to it.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

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sbuckle

66 posts in 1498 days


#13 posted 09-05-2015 09:37 PM

I am not sure what you mean Ken? I never said tomj was wrong? What I learned was that I mill my boards using the same method now for many years. The problem I was having was after I ran the board through the saw to size it and then I jointed the edge the trailing edge was slightly smaller compared to the leading edge. Everything on the jointer was level and square which only left my my technique. I was putting more pressure on the trailing edge instead of keeping constant steady pressure on the leading edge!

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

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distrbd

2227 posts in 1906 days


#14 posted 09-06-2015 12:54 AM

your jointer is designed to plane one edge perpendicular to another edge. It will taper a board in relation to the side facing up from the knives because there is no reference point for the knives to plane parallel with the opposite side.

- Tomj


Steve, I meant Tomj was right IMO about the point he made above,but it looks like in your case it was more a matter of technique than problem with the jointer.

BTW, I do use the same method as you ,I also try to watch how I apply pressure on the stock but I find if keep taking off a thin layer from the same edge (more than 4-5 passes)I inevitably make the stock tapered.
So the point is,after making both narrow edges parallel on my table saw(with glue line rip blade) I don’t find it necessary to go back to the jointer to get rid of the saw marks,that solved my problem.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

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sbuckle

66 posts in 1498 days


#15 posted 09-06-2015 01:14 AM

Definitely correct! Most of the time it comes down to technique!

-- Thanks for looking! Steve B.

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