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Powermatic-Houdaille Jointer Problem

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Forum topic by Bothus posted 04-03-2013 12:42 AM 2868 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bothus

439 posts in 2640 days


04-03-2013 12:42 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Our mill guy dodged a bullet.

We have an older Powermatic 17-1/2” Jointer and as he was adjusting the infeed table height he said it suddenly collapsed on him and the front edge of the table went into cutters.

At first I thought he must have done something wrong but after I took it apart I discovered that the two bolts supporting the front of the of the table had sheared off.

This caused the table to collapse an the cutter distroyed the the aluminum trim on the front edge of the table (OH, so THAT’S why that’s there).

Silvers of aluminum shot across the room in all directions but none of them hit our guy. Incredible.

This brings me to my purpose for this post. I need to replace those bolts (studs really but don’t try searching for studs on the internet).

The model of this jointer FS.430 and the part number of the stud is FS00181 but Powermatic does not support this product. They referred me to SAC America (since this was built by SAC for Houdaille) but I can find no trace of that company. I emailed SAC in Italy but have not heard back.

One of Powermatic’s Service Centers told me to contact Scott Redmond in Atlanta (Redmond Machinery) because he bought up all the old Powermatic spare parts in the world.

I did contact Scott (very nice guy) but unfortunately he only bought up all the Powermatic spare parts for machines made in Tennessee not Italy.

The studs are M12 and are 110mm long. The thread on one end is 1.75mm and is 37mm long. The thread on the other end is 1.25mm and is 47mm long.

I’ve tried Grainer, McMaster-Carr, ARP-Bolts etc. to no avail. These thing just look like heavy-duty head bolts which make me think they have to exist out there somewhere.

Any help anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.

I’ll post photos if I can get Photobucket to work.

Thanks in advance.

-- Jerry Boshear, Professional Kitchen Designer, amature woodworker.


11 replies so far

View AlbertaJim's profile

AlbertaJim

47 posts in 1893 days


#1 posted 04-03-2013 12:48 AM

A good millwright with a lathe should be able to cut the studs you need. Just a guess on my part.

-- My Boss was a carpenter

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

9438 posts in 3516 days


#2 posted 04-03-2013 12:50 AM

Was it turned ON when this happened?

Sounds very scary to me…

Hope you find the parts…

You can’t find the bolt stock then thread the ends?

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 1502 days


#3 posted 04-03-2013 01:14 AM

Can you show us where these studs are supposed to go? I’m picturing one end screwing into the body of the jointer and the other doing ???? Normally double-ended studs like that are used in autos like on exhaust manifolds – one end screws into the big heavy thing and the other holds a nut. If that’s the case here, then you should be able to use a regular M12-1.75×110mm double end stud – and just use a different nut on the one end. (If the M12-1.75 is the end that screws into the body of the jointer.)

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View Loren's profile

Loren

8303 posts in 3112 days


#4 posted 04-03-2013 01:26 AM

That’s a SAC (Italian) jointer.

Looks like this guy may be the N. American dealer for
SAC. http://www.solidwoodmachinery.com/SAC%20MAIN%20PAGE.htm

I kind of thought those notched aluminum things were there
to reduce noise, but it’s plausible they are just there to
break away easily and become lightweight projectiles
rather than heavy-weight projectiles.

View Bothus's profile

Bothus

439 posts in 2640 days


#5 posted 04-04-2013 04:23 PM

Jim, thanks. I may have to do that.

Joe L, another good option. Thanks.

JJoe, That is not a bad idea except it would not allow us fine adjustment of the table height. I will try to post an exploded diagram of the machine showing the parts.

Loren, thank you so much. I have an email into them. I’ll update when I find a solution.

-- Jerry Boshear, Professional Kitchen Designer, amature woodworker.

View Bothus's profile

Bothus

439 posts in 2640 days


#6 posted 04-11-2013 11:02 PM

Okay, I promised to update you guys so here it is:

“Dear French Tradition, your jointer was brought into the emergency room with several traumatic injuries. We performed extraordinary measures and worked several days exhausting all efforts but we are sorry to inform you that the patient was lost.”

In a nutshell, I was not able to find anyone anywhere who has replacement parts for this machine, so taking the next logical step I bought some studs that were close to the original. They worked. I took the bearing housing and had the crack welded. I reworked the trim piece on the end of the infeed table so that it would suffice. I cleaned and lubed everything, put it back together and aligned it…

then I turned it on. Apparently, the spindle is bend. Can’t Jerry-rig that.

So we are in the market for a new jointer. This one was 17-1/2 but in reality we could get by with a 12-14” model. We would prefer to buy an older quality model locally.

Again, any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

-- Jerry Boshear, Professional Kitchen Designer, amature woodworker.

View unbob's profile

unbob

718 posts in 1367 days


#7 posted 04-12-2013 01:45 AM

That is a scary thing that happened!
What about a Shelix head, as spendy as they are, it would seem to be less then a whole new machine.

View JM3's profile

JM3

9 posts in 1337 days


#8 posted 04-12-2013 04:11 AM

I second unbob’s post , Maybe an excuse to get a shelix cutter, and keep the quality of your machine.

View Bothus's profile

Bothus

439 posts in 2640 days


#9 posted 04-20-2013 03:34 PM

Another update. We finally got a response from SAC in Italy. They have the parts. Looks like we are going to be okay on this one.

Unbob and JM3, a Shelix cutter is not a bad idea but it won’t matter until we get the bearing housing replaced or repaired properly. Thank you for the suggestion, I’ll look into it.

-- Jerry Boshear, Professional Kitchen Designer, amature woodworker.

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 1502 days


#10 posted 04-20-2013 03:36 PM

Glad to hear it’s repairable – was it cost effective to order replacement parts from Italy vs buying a new (or refurbished) jointer?

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View Temujin's profile

Temujin

1 post in 1021 days


#11 posted 02-20-2014 01:50 AM

I am looking into buying one of these. What is your opinion after using yours for awhile?

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