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Re-wire a Grizzly G1012 18" Bandsaw from 220v to 110v

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Forum topic by held105mp posted 477 days ago 2189 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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held105mp

3 posts in 480 days


477 days ago

Help!!!
I need help re-wiring my G1012 18” bandsaw from 220v to 110v.

I do not have a 220v line in my shop. Purchased an awesome 18” saw that was set up for 220v.

After referring to the manual online, I disassembled the cover to the wires on the motor. There is also a wire diagram on the cover. I followed the diagram, changed the plug end to 110v (sacrificed an old extension cord), plugged it in and…...............NOTHING!!!

After messing with it a little bit, I that I can seem to accomplish is tripping my breaker.

The inline cord is probably 14ga. I used a regular outdoor heavy duty extension cord (14’-16’ or so) which is probably 16ga.

What am I doing wrong???


18 replies so far

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bannerpond1

220 posts in 495 days


#1 posted 477 days ago

I don’t think I’d do that and I know I wouldn’t do it myself.

-- --Dale Page

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MedicKen

1599 posts in 2059 days


#2 posted 477 days ago

How many wires are coming out of the motor? I am not seeing 6

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View pendledad's profile

pendledad

189 posts in 686 days


#3 posted 477 days ago

If you are tripping the breaker it could be a bad ground. It could also be trying to pull a massive current to start. My guess is you need at least a 20amp breaker, which should be wired with 12ga wire from the panel.

What is the outlet you are using? 15amp?

A lot of these tools will draw double current when converted from 220 to 110. So it could have been a 9amp on 220 and 18amp on 110.

I am mot an electrician thiugh, but those are things i would check.

#4 posted 477 days ago

I’m not seeing 6 leads from the motor, either, but the label plainly illustrates joining leads 2, 4 & 6 on one side of the 120vac lead and leads 1, 3 & 5 on the other.
Could this be the wrong label?
I might go further to remove the end caps from the motor and see if there is something else inside that will help.
You may also find it useful to take the motor to a motor service shop where they can help you see how to make the right connections.
If you have a breaker too small for the load it will almost always trip on startup.

Don

-- Will trade wife's yarn for tools.

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 635 days


#5 posted 477 days ago

What’s underneath the box by the motor itself?
EDIT: The manual for the G1012 is on their website and it says it’s a 220V motor, nothing about being reversible. That may be a generic junction box. Look at the plate attached to the motor itself. If it’s 110/220 it should give specs for both.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

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MedicKen

1599 posts in 2059 days


#6 posted 477 days ago

Remove the 2 screws securing the junction box to the motor. The remaining leads might be under the box.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

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kdc68

1939 posts in 873 days


#7 posted 477 days ago

I pasted the manual below.
Page 5 says it draws 10 amps at 220...so that would be 20 amps at 110. You are gonna need a 30 amp breaker to run this on 110 volts
Page 36 shows a wiring diagram.

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1012_m.pdf

Here’s the spec sheet

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/specsheets/g1012_ds.pdf

Edit:
Your 14ga or 16ga extension cords are not going to work and are asking for trouble. The post below from Elizabeth is good advice. She has a topic/forum on this bandsaw pertaining to 220v wiring

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/48557

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Elizabeth's profile

Elizabeth

792 posts in 1740 days


#8 posted 477 days ago

Might be easier to have an electrician put in a couple of 220v lines. I did that a few years ago when I was setting up my shop and it wasn’t too expensive at all, I think around $130 to have a couple existing outlets converted and another one put in.

ETA if you go this route, have more installed than you think you’ll need, as now I want another one!

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Grandpa

3044 posts in 1272 days


#9 posted 477 days ago

Elizabeth, do you have any numbers on any of your wires?
Question 2 is how large is the motor on this saw? HP rating.

Okay I read the manual in the post above your and it is worthless. Nothing about running on different voltages except it says you can do it. No schematic. That would be the easiest if it would work. that is a large motor for 110V. What kind of plug do you have on your saw. Is it like the one shown in the manual.

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woodbutcherbynight

1236 posts in 1005 days


#10 posted 477 days ago

It would be easier and long term much better to leave this saw wired 220vt. Depending on budget you could:
1. get a small 60 amp panel run from your existing breaker box in the house and use underground 6awg wire to supply it. Cost some but hey you get alot of bang for the buck in the long term as you have a 220vt shop.

2. Do what Elizabeth suggested and get a couple of outlets run into your shop by a electrican who will of course make sure you have the proper amp rated circuit breaker.

3. Depending on your shop location you could use the drier outlet and run a extension cord to it. Beware you would have to unplug the drier and plug it BACK or the wife impale you with one of your tools.

Myself I spent the extra money and wired a 60amp service box into the shop. I have A/C and heat, compressor and shop vac all 220vt. Note you cannot run all that at one time and expect to stay under 60amps, be reasonable be smart and above all be safe.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View REO's profile

REO

577 posts in 670 days


#11 posted 477 days ago

this does look to me like the motor was supplied for 220. However it can be run on 110 you may haqve to do a little motor dis-assembly to find the other leads. I just did a how to for a HF conversion. Take a look at it and if you feel confident to follow that I can get the info to walk you through this one too. PM if you wish.

a second observation the running current of the motor is 20 amps FULL LOAD not just to run the motor. Today most 110 outlets are on 20 amp reakers and they will serve you well.

Third observation although you wouldn’t want to the directions in the cover also state the reversal of the motor.LOL

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kdc68

1939 posts in 873 days


#12 posted 477 days ago

a second observation the running current of the motor is 20 amps FULL LOAD not just to run the motor. Today most 110 outlets are on 20 amp reakers and they will serve you well.

REO...I’m not an electrician but isn’t the max for 20 amp circuit 80% of the capacity or 16 FLA ?... If this bandsaw is 20 FLA then a 20 amp circuit isn’t big enough. The next size up would be a 30amp circuit where 24 FLA would be the max…I could be wrong, but in my defense that is what I was taught…

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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TopamaxSurvivor

14587 posts in 2272 days


#13 posted 476 days ago

I do not see enough wires to do the conversion shown on the cover.

If the full load current is 10 on 240, it will be 20 on 120 volts. That will require at least a 30 amp circuit. You are probably plugged into a 15 amp circuit if you are in a typical residential garage. Time to call a guy like me, an electrician ;-)

BTW, Welcome to LJ~!!

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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RonInOhio

720 posts in 1461 days


#14 posted 476 days ago

Can’t help with this but one obvious question needs to be asked. Did you hear this saw run on 220 ?
If so than carry on. If not , then well…..

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RonInOhio

720 posts in 1461 days


#15 posted 475 days ago

Just curious. Did you get this figured out yet ?

showing 1 through 15 of 18 replies

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