|Forum topic by JSB||posted 03-31-2013 09:59 PM||2521 views||3 times favorited||6 replies|
03-31-2013 09:59 PM
It’s a pocket hole skeleton with 1/4” ply glued to the insides and a 3/4” plywood base secured with pocket holes. To cover the exposed plywood end grain on top there is a lid base (thats what I call it anyway) which is where the hinges are actually secured to.
My goal is to make a complete halflap and dado blanket chest with the only metal being the lid hinge. Here’s what I have so far. The skeleton is complete 1-1/2”x2-1/2” stock joined with halflap joints and the side assemblies join to the front and back by a 3/4” deep by 1-1/2” dado. During assembly I will insert a 3/4” floating panel into a dado on all pieces to form the floor.
I am a bit undecided on how to form the panels. I could do the same 1/4” ply glued to the inside but then I would have to add the lid base as before to hide the plywood edges. I want to try something a bit different though.
I thought about making a dado with a slot cutter on all the pieces to hold floating panels but that sounded like a nightmare for assembly combined with the halflap joints. Or would it be easy?
Another thought is to simply use a rabbeting bit and glue in panels from the inside like a picture into a frame. I understand your not supposed to glue panels in because of wood expansion and contraction but before I learned this I glued a few projects this way and they are 100% fine a few years later. This option would keep The halflap joinery completely exposed visually, which I like.
I know the simple route would just do a tongue and groove construction with floating panels and call it a day but I want to experiment a bit. I like the exposed look of halflap joints and I like the idea of shifting away from mechanical fasteners and more to wood joints. I also believe a complete halflap chest with everything glued into place will be stronger than a T&G floating panel construction. Have any thoughts or opinions?
-- Jay - http://www.jayscustomcreations.com