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Forum topic by MarkSr posted 477 days ago 1041 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MarkSr

214 posts in 645 days


477 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: joining question

GREETING ALL LJ’S.

I have received from a very good friend of mine, 4 pcs. of 4’ X 6’ X 3/4” partical board (flake board or chip board) all the same, with light oak plastic laminate on both sides, ends are not laminated. Also I received 2 pcs. 4’ X 6’ X 3/4 partical board with pure white plastic laminate on both sides, ends are not laminated.

I would like to use these pieces for drawers that will go under my first project, “My Woodworking Bench”.

I am not sure if partical baord will take to regular drawer jointering, I am not going to use dove tail, I know that
will not work, but I think there must be some joints that would work with partical board.

My work bench is completely made from reclaimed lumber, wooden pallets, there is mostly white pine, but there is also some yellow pine and oak. There is not enough hard wood for much of anything. These panels I received are also from a retail display setups, my friend remodels commercial retail stores.

Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-- Mark, ”...NEWBEE: On the road to learning a lot; but; a lot more to learn…” ("My Granddad used to tell me, if you didn't learn something new today, it just wasn't worth getting out of bed")


12 replies so far

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 633 days


#1 posted 477 days ago

The only furniture I know of with drawers made from termite barf uses KD joinery. (Knock-Down). If you really want to go that way you can get it at ACE hardware or the specialty bins of your local big-box store.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

View AlbertaJim's profile

AlbertaJim

47 posts in 1024 days


#2 posted 477 days ago

I am one that always appreciates having free stuff, even if it is particle board. A possible joint that I think will work in your case is tongue and dado (or groove). Also run a 1/4” dado (groove) to put some 1/4” ply for the drawer bottoms. With all this squared & glued together you should have a strong enough drawer for your bench. One starts with what one has. Will hold together if a tractor/trailer hits it with freeway speed, no, but for most applications it should work.

-- My Boss was a carpenter

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1564 days


#3 posted 477 days ago

Screws/contact adhesive and ball bearing metal slides ill work, or the minifix system.

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

1236 posts in 1004 days


#4 posted 477 days ago

JustJoe +1 termitebarf??? (laughing)

Like renners said, screws, and some adhesive, be sure to make a groove for the bottoms. They work, not the best, kinda heavy but one works with what one has or the budget will afford. I have them, from a first time build bench and it is still standing after 20 years. Would I do it again, NO.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View MarkSr's profile

MarkSr

214 posts in 645 days


#5 posted 477 days ago

Had to leave last night.

Thanks to everyone. I think I will use my pallets. I have already made my drawer bottoms, jointed, & planed to 1/4”, so I’ll make my sides 1/2” and I have some 5/4 pieces I can glue up two for my 3/4” drawer fronts.

I will use the termitegarf for a router table, drill press table and grinder stand and I will be making a sanding cabinet which that would be good for. As well as great shelves.

Plus they were FREE

Thanks all
Mark

-- Mark, ”...NEWBEE: On the road to learning a lot; but; a lot more to learn…” ("My Granddad used to tell me, if you didn't learn something new today, it just wasn't worth getting out of bed")

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

1236 posts in 1004 days


#6 posted 477 days ago

MarkSr, I have used this stuff from a shop that closed and made drawer fronts for a cabinet I had. The laminate they use cannot be taken off without breaking it but you can usually match white and finish it off. I took an old service writers station and using a heat gun peeled the formica off, saved it and used it to make matching tabletops, and drawer fronts for the shop. (it was black, yes it shows sawdust and is always a mess) Termite barf has some use but for a drawer it does make it rather heavy.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

2854 posts in 1082 days


#7 posted 477 days ago

Termite Barf use to be about the best stuff you could find for building speaker enclosures, and I’m sure you need to upgrade the sound system in the shop!

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View Loren's profile

Loren

7222 posts in 2243 days


#8 posted 477 days ago

Rabbet joints work well in PB. Since there are a lot of
long-grain fibers in any cut you make in it, glue joints
tend to be stronger than the material. 3/4” PB
drawers are on the heavy side. It works well for
large drawers like flat files because it is so stable.

Biscuits work well too. Staples and nails work too
but make sure to test nailing close to the edge of
a board to make sure you understand how flush
joints are going to come out. Nailing through laminate
is probably a bad idea… it is brittle.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View MarkSr's profile

MarkSr

214 posts in 645 days


#9 posted 477 days ago

Thanks WOODBUTCHERBYNIGHT, DALLAS & LOREN.

All great hints. Loren I am going to use the rabbet joints for my Grinder Stand, it going to be a pedastel style, not to big, but a little different and with the light oak color for the base and the pure white for the top I think it will look ok.

I even found edge banding for both which will finish them off nicely.

But I do agree WOODBUTCHERBYNIGHT it is pretty heavy stuff for a drawer, so out goes the PB for the drawers but still keep it for the outside boxes for around the shop.

OKAY, here is another question for the pros out there, my bench base is all 4 X 4 construction; legs, long streachers on the bottom and top, and the short streachers both bottom and top, I have jointed, planed and glued up two side panels and put them in routed groove off center towards the back side facing the interior, those to went well, but the back of the bench I had to do three seperate glue ups because I don’t have the right clamps to do them in one shot. That panel is also in a routed groove on all four sides just like the small side panels. In other words I routed 2 short streachers, and legs on one side and the same on the other side. The back got grooves in two long streachers, top and bottom and 2 legs. The glue ups took forever but they did come out nice. Pictures will be comming.

Anyway back to the question; my top is made out of 1-3/16” X 3-3/8_ yellow pine, oak and white pine, I have a total of 19 pieces 62” long, I haven’t glued them up yet because I have to purchase more pipe clamps. And I know this is not a very hard top for a work bench, so what if I put a piece of the TERMITE BARF on top of my boards “after I have made them completely flat, I have plans to trim the full edges with 3/4” oak. I would have a very flat surface but I think it may be too slippery, OR NOT. My original plans were to use 1/4” masonite, the brown stuff.

Would the TERMIITE BARF be okay for the top of my boards????

Really would like some input on that one too.

Thanks
MarkSr

-- Mark, ”...NEWBEE: On the road to learning a lot; but; a lot more to learn…” ("My Granddad used to tell me, if you didn't learn something new today, it just wasn't worth getting out of bed")

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

13196 posts in 933 days


#10 posted 477 days ago

The laminate may protect the MDF (termitebarf I guess). But plain MDF would not hold up well at all.

I love learning new woodworking terms.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it. - It's not ability that we often lack, but the patience to use our ability

View Marty5965's profile

Marty5965

158 posts in 540 days


#11 posted 477 days ago

I would put it under your boards to add thickness to your top, I don’t think it would hold up well as a top surface, particularly around dog holes. I’m in the process of building my bench from DF and SYP and would caution you to use a long open time glue. I used Titebond II and had some slippage during the glue up which made for a lot of trueing and leveling when dry. I made two laminations of 8 boards each. If (when) I do it again, I will use different glue and not try to glue up so many at a time.

-- Marty, Columbus, OH, learning every day....

View MarkSr's profile

MarkSr

214 posts in 645 days


#12 posted 474 days ago

Hey Marty, thanks for the info. I too have kicked my backside because I used Titebond II, it just doesn’t give you a lot of time to work with. But when it is done, it is strong. I also found out the hard way about glue-ups; using too much at one time on the edges of single boards to glue up for a table top, it took me longer to plane the top of glue and nicks from an inexperienced planer that it did to prep the boards for the table itself.

I’m going to try Titebond III, but I still have 3/4 of a gal. of type II left and the price difference here in Florida is a big difference, beside from what I hear, type III gives you only about an extra 10 mins. or so, and the price difference will make me work a little faster and smarter.

Mark

-- Mark, ”...NEWBEE: On the road to learning a lot; but; a lot more to learn…” ("My Granddad used to tell me, if you didn't learn something new today, it just wasn't worth getting out of bed")

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