Explain what 4/4 means to a newbie?

I just learned about this myself.
The “X/4” number refers to the thickness of the board, expressed in quarter-inches.
Therefore, a “4/4” board is 1” thick, a “6/4” board is 1 1/2” thick, and so on.

Hope this answers your question for you.

-- Jeff Kochosky, Professional Novice Woodworker...

I had a hunch that’s what it was, but I though I had better ask.

Thanks Jeff!

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

s4s stands for surfaced on 2 sides and jointed on 2 sides I believe. I may be wrong on the last part

-- Rick Kruse, Rick's Rustics Handcrafted wood products Grand Rapids, MI

Well it gets a bit more complicated.

In simplest terms, 4/4 does refer to to the thickness of the wood in quarters of an inch, as Jeff said.

However, the actual thickness of the board is going to depend on how it is surfaced. A piece of 4/4 lumber would start of 1” thick right out of the sawmill, but would typically be surfaced down to 3/4” by the time it gets to your big box store. Sometimes lumber will be more lightly surfaced, down to 13/16 or more.

For unfinished flooring, you can buy 5/4 lumber, which will actually be 1” thick when surfaced.

Confused yet? :-)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

So, 4/4 S4S is 1” thick, but pre-surfaced. Correct?

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

No… 4/4 lumber that is s4s or s2s is usually 3/4”, but definitely less than 1” because to x/4 designation refers to the pre-surfacing thickness. (At least in regular lumber parlance. Some lumberyard might be selling surfaced lumber that is a full 1” thick and calling it 4/4, but this is not the traditional way of referring to it.)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Yeah, my piece was labelled 4/4 and was a solid inch thick post-surfacing. This is the local lumber place’s “Hobby and Exotic Wood” section though, so it’s possible that they use a non-traditional nomenclature…

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

I used to work for a lumber and building supply company, so I know how tricky it can get with people using different terminology.

Don’t even get me started on left-hand doors vs. right-hand doors.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

lol, I won’t.

Thanks!

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

Whew…

I thought 4/4 was that extra lever down by the gear shift for when you is stuck in the mud….

Q

-- I don't make sawdust...I produce vast quantities of "Micro Mulch."

Don’t confuse s4s with 4/4 or vice versa…..in reality they’re not related. Kinda like apples and applesauce.

4/4 is 4 quarters…..s4s is “surfaced 4 sides”.

quarters are typically used on rough lumber….once you start surfacing lumber you go by the dimension…..i.e. I want 4/4 lumber…you’ll get rough wood 1+” thick…..I want 3/4” s4s…you’ll get lumber 3/4” thick surfaced all four sides.

There are always going to be variances but, quarters is rough…s’s are surfaced

-- arborial reconfiguration specialist

I understand that now.

Odd though, this piece of Tigerwood was only labelled 4/4 but it was clearly all squared up and surfaced on 4 sides as well as being 1” thick. Must have just been an odd labelling or just a really good piece of rough lumber.

Regardless, bandsaw, planer and jointer are all on my list for next year :D

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

I thought it meant 4 quarter notes to a measure…

-- - Real men read directions

lol, confuse me more why don’t you.

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

Some timber yards down under would interpret that as 4 lengths of 4”X11”X74”.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

The way I sort it out is to take my tape measure to the lumber yard. 4/4 means sometimes means something different no matter what you think. The Lumber yard I buy from has a lot of S2S lumber but it is all 13/16 leaving not much room for surface planing. Even the rough sawn stuff is usually shy of 4/4. I’m usually buying 5/4 to get 4/4 finished stock.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

In my opinion, if you’ve got the means (i.e., a bandsaw), it can actually be cheaper in the long run to buy thicker pieces of wood (like 8/4 or 10/4) and ripping it down to get multiple boards of the rough thickness you need.

-- Jeff Kochosky, Professional Novice Woodworker...

Yeah, I need 1/2” so I ripped that 4/4 down on my TS. It was an adventure, but it went very wel (check my blog for pics).

-- I'm just learning how to cut the stuff with some other stuff...

Resawing lumber is also invaluable for appearances sake, too – book match or slip match panels.

Most times my 4/4 lumber has been 1”+. But, never 1” after surfacing.

You just kind of count on losing a quarter to surfacing, and if resawing a quarter for each kerf. (I resaw on the tale saw so huge for me. So, less if on bandsaw with skinny blade. Maybe 2 kerfs per quarter.)

-- Current Favorite Tool - Good old chisels

Here’s a chart showing lumber sizes.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1