veneer glue

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Forum topic by mtx77 posted 03-28-2013 05:50 PM 1503 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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24 posts in 2194 days

03-28-2013 05:50 PM

Im going to try my hand at veneering. If this goes well i’ll start thinking about building a vacuum press, but for this project its just clamps & cauls. Its on a guitar body which is relatively small and flat. I was thinking of doing curly or quilted maple veneer. Im going to dye with transtint, sand slightly (i know they’re thin!) then apply a lighter transtint dye over it.

Not sure on the glue though. I dont want to use regular yellow because I dont want it to soak through and mess with my finishing process. I see titebond makes a veneer glue, and alot of people talk about how great of a veneer glue unibond 800 is, but its a 2 part glue and im wondering if its a little overkill for my project. And some people swear by hide glue. I have the titebond hide glue you dont need to heat up, but im assuming thats not ideal here.

Anyone have veneer glue preference? Or can recommend one for a small project like mine?

11 replies so far

View shipwright's profile


8132 posts in 2973 days

#1 posted 03-28-2013 06:06 PM

Hide glue would be my choice and if you have flat surfaces I’d recommend hot hide glue as you can hammer it and you never will need a press, vacuum or otherwise. I do lots of veneer work and wouldn’t use anything else. I have a Hide Glue for Beginners blog that might interest you. Look especially at the videos in the first segment featuring Patrick Edwards.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese!

View CharlieM1958's profile


16278 posts in 4393 days

#2 posted 03-28-2013 06:09 PM

I can’t speak to a comparison of the different types, but I can tell you I’ve used the Titebond on a number of small veneering projects with good results.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View DS's profile


3024 posts in 2595 days

#3 posted 03-28-2013 06:28 PM

There is a pretty good overview of glues used for veneer at
This was a very helpful site for me when I was making my bag press.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3823 days

#4 posted 03-28-2013 06:35 PM

I’ve just started working with hot hide glue and I am
liking it… it’s not easy to work with for all situations
though because it sets so fast.

I made a glue pot out of a little crock pot. I cut a round
hole in the plastic lid for my glue jar. Then, using a
kitchen thermometer I measured the temperature
water both inside the jar and in the crock got to. Then
I drilled 3/8” holes one at a time in the lid and observed
the temperatures. The holes allow steam and heat to
leave the crock pot and thus it can be tuned to operate
at an appropriate temp for hide glue.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3823 days

#5 posted 03-28-2013 06:43 PM

Contact cement won’t affect finishing but I think it might
act weird around the edges on a guitar… if you are going to
put binding around the veneered area maybe it wouldn’t

If you can get it or have the tools to cut it, making
thicker veneer is a nice choice for a guitar. It will
allow you to shape the surface a little, be tougher
around the cutout holes, and allow you to use
regular wood glue. There’s a method using Titebond
where you put glue on both surfaces, let it dry,
then activate it to stick with a household iron.

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2423 days

#6 posted 03-28-2013 06:44 PM

I’ve followed all of Paul’s tips for hammer veneering with hot hide glue with excellent results. I can’t claim it is an easy process, but it was not as difficult as I imagined it would be.

Come to think of it, I should post the box I made out of plywood and bubinga veneer


View Eugene's profile


16 posts in 2061 days

#7 posted 03-28-2013 06:55 PM

If you can’t go down the the hide glue route then the glue to use would be a Urea-Formaldehyde resin, veneer has to be just right or it will fail in a more dramatic fashion, yellow glue is fine for joints as most timber joints have some mechanical strength as well as glue, but veneering is all about the glue line.
Here is some reading, the last one is an Australian veneering manual, Page 44 to 46 is most relevant ... ... manual.pdf


View mtx77's profile


24 posts in 2194 days

#8 posted 03-28-2013 07:15 PM

Hide glue seems to be the popular suggestion, esp since I dont have a vacuum setup. I used the non-heating up titebond hide glue when as a sizer before and had good results. I guess this is a good excuse to pick up some of the real stuff.

If anyone else wants to read the veneer manuals Eugene posted (the link seems messed up) you can find it at

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2423 days

#9 posted 03-28-2013 07:30 PM

For Hot hide glue, grab one of these before you buy an expensive glue pot. Put your hydrated granules and water in a glass jar. It works great for me.


View AlaskaGuy's profile


4636 posts in 2484 days

#10 posted 03-28-2013 07:45 PM

I don’t know what glue their using but can it really be this easy.

At 1.06 in the video.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View EPJartisan's profile


1122 posts in 3300 days

#11 posted 03-28-2013 08:20 PM

Fun video.. and it really is that easy.. and reminds again me why I chose to not work in a production shop.
Personally, I use West System 2 part epoxy. know it is more difficult to repair than yellow or hide.. but if you get bleed through from open grained wood… it matches poly varnish really well. And you can control it’s setting time. For me it is glue up and while in the vacuum press I hammer out any bubbles. For laminating thicker veneer or smaller pieces I just use Titebond 2 But I know hide glue is traditional and good for repairs later, but I just don’t like it as much.

-- " 'Truth' is like a beautiful flower, unique to each plant and to the season it blossoms ... 'Fact' is the root and leaf, allowing the plant grow and bloom again."

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