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Ridgid R4512 table saw question

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Forum topic by JeanValjean posted 491 days ago 850 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JeanValjean

45 posts in 1240 days


491 days ago

So I scored a huge discount on a great saw yesterday….
Somebody bought it…took it home put it together flipped it over on its feet and it had a scratch on the top and very minor surface rust on it so they returned it…
So I happened to be walking around Home Depot…cash in my pocket…..offered $300 for it and GOT IT!!!

Anyways I got it home and the first thing I checked was the blade alignment to the slot…..perfect!! Literally…with a Forrest WWII blade on it I got consistent readings of .000 difference between the front and back of the blade…

Once I went to the measure the fence to slot though it was a different story…
Best I can seem to get is .012 from the slot to the back of the fence so at least the fence won’t crowd the stock into the blade as I make a cut…..

When I run the blade up as high as it will go…run the fence all the way to the blade though….I can’t get a feeler gauge between any of the teeth and the fence…..which tells me thy are perfectly parallel….

I know that this saw has been discussed a lot here so I am curious to hear your thoughts…

-- Semper Fi


12 replies so far

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

13313 posts in 940 days


#1 posted 491 days ago

I would have bought it as well. It’s a very decent saw.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it. - It's not ability that we often lack, but the patience to use our ability

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JeanValjean

45 posts in 1240 days


#2 posted 491 days ago

It’s funny Monte I had been researching the saw a lot online and was ready to go in to HD and try the 20% off Harbor Freight coupon or if they didnt allow that I would have whipped out my old Military ID and seen if this old Jarhead could have gotten at least 10% off….

When I saw that saw…I knew I could buff that rust off in seconds and the scratch too….of course I didn’t let them know that!!!

So..I offered half price and the manager came over and said $299…..
Didnt take too much more thinking on my part!!!

BTW…...I spent half an hour on that top and it looks like a mirror now!!!

The local Rockler manager today even gave me 20% off on a new Forrest WWII 40t thin kerf so that thing really cuts now!!!

-- Semper Fi

View Richard's profile

Richard

400 posts in 1293 days


#3 posted 491 days ago

Nice score! Enjoy the hell out of it, I know I would.

-- "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." - Mark Twain

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 888 days


#4 posted 491 days ago

Check the manual on adjusting the fence. Mine works perfectly I can fling it and clamp it where it stops and it’s perfect every time. If you still have trouble check the rails, they have a lousy way of putting those on. It’s just a matter of adjustment though. And you might think that .12 was the good ole days before you get finished. lol.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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JeanValjean

45 posts in 1240 days


#5 posted 490 days ago

Well I need to make a few more measurements tonight…
What am I missing??
Blade is perfectly parallel to the slot….
Fence is parallel to the blade…..
Fence does not measure parallel to the slot…

Should I be worried about .012”???

-- Semper Fi

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 888 days


#6 posted 490 days ago

First, check to see if that .012 is the same all along the table to about a foot or 18” either side of the blade. That should tell you if it’s the rails or the fence itself. If the 012 floats significantly across the table, it’s the rails that need adjusting. If it stays pretty consistent, it’s the fence.

If you have ever or do ever drop this fence on the ground. Just guy a new one. If it’s ever taken a good hit it’s trash and time to get one of those high $$ fences. The good news is, this fence is pretty decent. I can scoot the saw by the fence it’s so tight.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 888 days


#7 posted 490 days ago

ONce you take a closer look, it’s easy to see how to adjust the Ridgid 4512 fence. Sounds to me like it just needs a minor adjustment. Be sure to check those rails though, adjusting the fence won’t fix that and if this saw was put together and hauled around you can bet someone lifted the saw by those rails. I would recommend getting a Stanley 72” level or straight edge for the back rail adjustment. Just get the rails even and straight, the fence can be adjusted to the rails if they are straight and parallel to each other. When you think it’s good, check the fence in different places on the table. It’s not uncommon at all to have .012 at the extreme ends of the table. I always measure anyway to make sure anything over 12” isn’t cocked by the fence. There is a small digital angle meter that I have found very useful with this saw for miter and straight cuts.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View whitebeast88's profile

whitebeast88

3407 posts in 792 days


#8 posted 490 days ago

congrats on the new saw,enjoy.

-- Marty.Athens,AL

View jeff's profile

jeff

634 posts in 2067 days


#9 posted 490 days ago

i have the ridgid 4512 and had to align the fence to the blade,correct me if I’m wrong…the blade and miter slot were perfect…there are four allen screws near the handle,loosen those and line up your fence to the blade…if i remember right i clamped the rear fence down and then tightened each scew separately but only snug and then more tightly for each one,i also made some test cuts to help me with the process…it took me a few attempts to get the fence aligned…also make sure your fence rails are installed correctly…and isn’t the rear fence suppose to have a hair of run out so it doesn’t bind the work piece at the end of the cut?...congrates on a great deal!...

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View JeanValjean's profile

JeanValjean

45 posts in 1240 days


#10 posted 490 days ago

Thanks everyone….
I futzed with it some more tonight and got it down to about .009”...
At this rate only a few more nights and I will have it perfect!!!
There is really no consistency to the problem….
I’m happy with the rails….straight edge indicates they are straigh and flat. I even made a set of makeshift calipers with my straightedge and the rails are parallel too!!
The error is consistent either side of the blade and regardless of the distance from the slot.
I can get it really close….like .009…. Than release the fence run it to the right than back and I’ve got .020 error again!!
I tried loosening everything… Clamping the base of the of the clamp to the rails…..set the fence to .000 on both sides of the blade than slowly tightening things up….still anywhere from .012 to .025 out…
With that blade the thing is cutting smooth so I’m really happy with the saw…

The Home Depot I got it from has a floor model I think I will swap them fences tomorrow and see how that goes

-- Semper Fi

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2938 posts in 888 days


#11 posted 490 days ago

That’s not too bad. I push more errors in a cut than that.
When you get a chance, try the freud thin kerf blades in that saw. I’ve had mine in for 6 months and it cuts like the day I put it in. I use a stabilizer on the outside of the blade. It’s a lot better blade for kickbacks, you can feel it coming long before you’re stuck. Also get yourself a good zero clearance insert. I like to buy them from Grizzly or woodcraft, some guys make them too. Getting things out of that saw that fall in isn’t fun.

Do you have the DC bottom on? if so, you need DC hooked up and I wouldnt use the saw without it. I just use a shop vac. I still have to clean it out with an air hose but at least the shop vac gets the dust in the air so it wont combust when you flip the saw on. some of the guys here can help you with the elbow you need for the DC, some say a dryer elbow will work, but the wheel mechanism is really close to it.

Great buy, I paid twice as much for mine but I’d have paid more because it’s a great saw.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View jonwright's profile

jonwright

68 posts in 539 days


#12 posted 490 days ago

congrats on the saw – looks like you have a nice deal. I had one and returned it, a few things I found might be helpful:

1. when checking measurments for the blade check to see that it doesn’t move when you take from full up to a different position. Mine would measure fine, then when I changed the depth it would be off (you could see the blade moving side to side while cranking the height wheel). so check it all the way up, then drop the blade, say, 1/8 turn and check again. Hopefully you’ll still be spot-on.

2. You can inded set fence parallelism with those 4 screws someone mentioned above – at the back of the fence there is a screw that adjusts how tighly the back holds on to the back side rail. Tightening that may help keep the fence in adjustment or drifting on you.

However, keep in mind that’s rather a (in MY opinion) a rather flimsy fence to begin with. For what you’d paid I’d certainly examine an upgraded fence assuming the blade checks out OK and swapping fences doesn’t make you happy.

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