Using Turquoise: Questions

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Forum topic by pete57 posted 03-22-2013 12:53 PM 1873 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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134 posts in 3612 days

03-22-2013 12:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hi everyone,

The above pictures are part of a keeping chest. I hope these url’s work so you can see the pictures. I am not good with putting my work on the site and until it gets easier this will work. The sizing pictures I do not understand either?

I want to put turquoise in the worm holes and in the knots. My questions are:

Why do people say to use Silicon Carbide sandpaper instead of Aluminum Oxide sandpaper to sand out the turquoise stone and dust?

What grit do I need to sand the stone?

What kind of glue do I need of these three, CA glue, West Systems Epoxy, InLace resin kits, to fill the worm holes and knots?

Can the stain go on after the turquoise or can it be applied after a couple coats of stain and oil?

I use a three step process, Water based aniline dye, Danish oil, wipe on poly and of course there is lots of sanding.

If Silicon Carbon sandpaper is used at 80 grit how does t not mess up the wood? I can’t find 100, 120, grit on amazon.

Sorry about all the questions guys, but I would really get this box out of my hair so all the tips, comments, and advice would greatly be appreciated. I can take some closer pics if that would help.


-- Humble Wood Servant

2 replies so far

View redSLED's profile


790 posts in 2094 days

#1 posted 03-23-2013 03:40 AM

Hey Pete57,

Your pictures turned out fine.

Trying to understand something first – you want to fill the worm holes and knots with turquoise, then fill the remaining worm holes and knots with glue before staining?

I think you will have trouble sanding down any of the “filler stone” to be flush with the wood because the extreme hardness/density differences. Ever tried to sand flush a hard maple dowel in pine? Your situation will be worse I think unless you’ve done something like this before successfully with some special technique.

The silicon carbide sandpaper is the toughest longest lasting grade among the three sandpapers which would make sense to use on stone. The cheapest most available source of this would be from belt sander belts at home depot or other supply stores – but check the product labelling fine print if any or at the manufacturer’s website.

And though turquoise is a stone, won’t it take some stain and possibly look worse after, or will all the stain just wipe off the stone? Curious here because I’ve never heard of a project like this.

-- Perfection is the difference between too much and not enough.

View pete57's profile


134 posts in 3612 days

#2 posted 03-23-2013 04:19 AM

Thanks for the reply. I usually get replies sooner than this, but to answer you question about the turquoise filler, I have the wood clear now and want to glue the dovetails and assemble the main box then dig out all the worm holes with various tools, but not make them bigger. That is where the questions come from. I use aniline dye in warm Walnut on the box and sand it all back out leaving the dark dye in the curls. I do this for all the parts and the outside of the box too. I have to stop there and see about the turquoise? I have dust coming and granules of turquoise to see what I can do with it on this project. Then I go to the Golden Amber Maple, both water based and it is lighter and darkens the curls just a tad more but makes the box look lighter in color, Then the danish oil, and then the finish. If there is something else out there to use that has that color I will look at it? This piece is for me, I could never sell it with all these defects. I am just baffled with the Turquoise? I make Windsors so I know the dowel in pine, I use Maple for the turnings and pine seats so I get that. The glue to use is also baffling. I use yellow and hide glue. locyite epoxy at times.

-- Humble Wood Servant

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