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Rough cast iron table saw top

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Forum topic by boroughdan posted 495 days ago 1583 views 0 times favorited 33 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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boroughdan

22 posts in 544 days


495 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

I am looking into upgrading my table saw from my black friday $89 special to something a bit more substantial. I was thinking I would be in the $1000 range as an intermediary before I moved on to a ~$3000 cabinet saw in a few years. I came across the Ridgid r4512 and have seen lots of good reviews on it saying it beats out saws costing a few hundred more. I went today to take a look at the one at my Home Depot and because of their terrible desplay (up on a shelf at eye level) I couldn’t really play around with it.

That aside one thing I could tell was that the cast iron top wasn’t what I was expecting. I was expecting a smooth top and this was gritty. It seems like the wood wouldnt slide very easily on a top like that. Can anyone clear this up for me.

Also if anyone has another suggestion for a saw in that $500-$1000 range I would love to hear it.


33 replies so far

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

1805 posts in 1833 days


#1 posted 495 days ago

Check the “Reviews” section under table saws for some feedback from owners who have them. Hope this helps.
Mike

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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Dakkar

297 posts in 530 days


#2 posted 495 days ago

Unless you need something ASAP, I definitely suggest starting a Craigslist watch (as well as other local classifieds). You could get a lot more saw for your money if you educate yourself on your needs and how to check out a used unit. When I’m watching for something I check it 2-3 times a day and try to contact as quick as possible. The great deals don’t last for long.

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darthford

532 posts in 526 days


#3 posted 495 days ago

Grizzly 1023. I had a Rigid with cast iron wings, a bit under powered but for a $600 saw it was a good value. I just finished assembling a new Powermatic PM2000 and was underwhelmed by a number of things frankly. No more mirror finishes on the PM saw tables, the ground finish was nothing special imo. Table and wings are absolutely flat however which is more important. Not one damn thing on the saw was aligned, blade to miter slot way out, 90 degree stop way off, fence off, errors in the assembly instructions, wrong size bolts for the rear rail I had to go buy a bunch myself, couple of shipping rub damage spots. Assuming the Grizzly is flat and true I don’t see how this Powermatic is worth $1,500-$2,000 more than the Grizzly.

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kdc68

1942 posts in 879 days


#4 posted 495 days ago

boroughdan -Knottscott has a ton of great info on this site pertaining to the table saw. You can find posts with his info in most all forums regarding table saws

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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crank49

3338 posts in 1573 days


#5 posted 495 days ago

I have a Craftsman 21833 which is identical to the Ridgid 4512. If you go this way that’s fine as long as you understand you will have to replace it in a few years. And, you may have to replace it as soon as you get it home and put it together.
You must assemble this saw and check for a defect several of them have. When you raise the blade it will shift from one side to the other. What this is doing is throwing the blade to miter slot alignment out. If you have one of these saws with this defect it must be returned to the store for a refund or exchange. The problem is not fixable. I know because my saw has this problem and I didn’t think it was anything more than needing a little adjustment. WRONG. You can adjust it perfect, but the first time you change blade height your alignment just flew out the window.
Really too bad, because these are nice saws for the money. BUT, If I had it to do over I would go used from Craig’s list. I’ve seen some $3000 cabinet saws, unused and on the original shipping pallet, sell for less than $1000 on Craig’s list. Just have to be patient.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Loren's profile

Loren

7264 posts in 2250 days


#6 posted 495 days ago

Actually wood slides better on Blanchard ground surfaces. If
a table is ground exceptionally fine and flat the there can
be a suction effect. Some guys who’ve had wide jointers
reground with a Blanchard grind can say that the wood
slides better. Air can get in between the wood and
the iron and this is a good thing.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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shampeon

1299 posts in 786 days


#7 posted 495 days ago

Do a search on Craigslist for “unisaw” and my guess is you’ll find a good cabinet saw for less than a grand. I’m partial to the art deco models, but I see good condition Unisaws routinely for $300-700.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View Bruce Taylor's profile

Bruce Taylor

20 posts in 540 days


#8 posted 495 days ago

You don’t say how much the R4512 is going to cost you but I found one at my local HD sale of rental equipment for $225 including a new 60T blade that I wanted. When I called my local tool repair guy and gave him the serial number, he said ‘buy it’. Apparently, it is in the last Ridgid table saw series with a lifetime warranty. So, I bought it and after a bit of tweeking, it is working like a champ. It even came with a fold-down dolly that is plenty strong.

-- Captain Bruce, Washington State

View jonwright's profile

jonwright

68 posts in 539 days


#9 posted 494 days ago

I have a Craftsman 21833 which is identical to the Ridgid 4512. If you go this way that’s fine as long as you You must assemble this saw and check for a defect several of them have. When you raise the blade it will shift from one side to the other. What this is doing is throwing the blade to miter slot alignment out. If you have one of these saws with this defect it must be returned to the store for a refund or exchange. The problem is not fixable. I know because my saw has this problem and I didn’t think it was anything more than needing a little adjustment. WRONG. You can adjust it perfect, but the first time you change blade height your alignment just flew out the window.

+1 on this one. I had read where they thought the problem was long ago and the stock is now “fixed”. bought mine in January. Took it back. Also the fence is rather flimsy so when you adjust it you need to make sure it’s still square to the blade. Besides the aforementioned alignment woes my fence drifted.

And then I really got mad when I attempted to put a 3/4” sheet MDF on the saw and it tipped over (yeah, after I’d already sized it down with a circular saw and a straight edge). Newbie mistake, OK – but that’s when I realized what I wanted out of my saw this one wasn’t going to deliver – ever.

But…if you get an R4512 that’s STRAIGHT and you are patient and meticulous by double checking your alignment it can work. Many folks do fine projects with contractor saws. Some of them may need to clean up their lines with hand planes or more sanding.

There are a few other choices, however, in your price range that should, by my research, give you a decent saw.

Griz has a special going on now on the G0690, so that’s close. I mean, for another $400 you’d be DONE and not have any excuses or compromises and won’t need to upgrade to a $3k saw unless you just wanted to. Also the Craftsman hybrid saw gets nice reviews, and I THINK Steel city has some decent hybrid saws that fit your budget as well. For that cash you’re also playing in Saw Stop’s contractor model, too.

After being so effed off and disappointed with my experience I decided I was either going to play deep or go home. I really started to understand why folks kept mentioning cabinet saw for consistent cuts and stretched my budget and bought one.

Patience, a willingness to travel, and lots of research can yield a CL find. But when it comes along you better have the cash and jump quickly. Bring your straight edge and square to make sure it’s aligned and OK. I’m sure there’s a bunch of tips on checking out used equipment.

View toolie's profile (online now)

toolie

1722 posts in 1231 days


#10 posted 494 days ago

it is in the last Ridgid table saw series with a lifetime warranty.

unfortunately, i believe this is absolutely untrue. to the best of my knowledge, no ridgid 4512 possessed a lifetime guaranty. the last ridgid stationary power tools that carried lifetime guaranties against manufacturing defects were gray in color, built by emerson electric for ridgid and predated the shift in manufacturing of the 3650/60 series TSs to one world technologies. what documentation was provided with the saw that supports that 4512 having a lifetime guaranty?

it may, if you are considered the original owner, qualify for registration with ridgid’s lifetime service agreement (LSA). here is ridgid’s current info on warranties and the LSA:

http://www.ridgid.com/tools/power-tool-warranty

boroughdan…........should you wish to pursue a 4512, try to find a HD that will honor harbor freight’s “25% off any single item” coupon. that $500 saw might be had for $375, which, iMHO, would be an extremely good deal for a 1.5 hp, dual voltage, left tilt, 30” rip capacity, CI TS with a built in mobile base, a 90 satisfaction guaranty, a 3 year new tool guaranty and eligibility for the original owner to register it with the LSA.

BTW,the gritty finish on the 4512 you saw is not indicative of the finish of the saw. whenever i’ve seen them in HDs, they are as smooth as any other CI top. and those saws are not treated terribly well by customers or the store staff. with a 90 day satisfaction guaranty, you can always bring it back if you’re not happy with it. not many other brands offer that.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Bruce Taylor's profile

Bruce Taylor

20 posts in 540 days


#11 posted 494 days ago

Hi Toolie,

Have to say that I took the word of my tool repair guy on the lifetime warranty issue but, having said that and having spent a couple of hours setting the saw up, I have absolutely no complaints.

-- Captain Bruce, Washington State

View RogerInColorado's profile

RogerInColorado

286 posts in 557 days


#12 posted 494 days ago

I’m in the camp of those who suggest patiently waiting for the right deal on craigslist and then pursuing it aggressively. I often see good Powermatic and Delta and Grizzly saws at bargain prices. Yes, there is also crap offered at diamond prices, but bargains exist and you can easily end up with a better used cabinet saw for what you would have paid for a new contractor saw.

View DKV's profile

DKV

3059 posts in 1107 days


#13 posted 494 days ago

The best saw to get if FITB is not an option is the FITB which took top honors at the recent FITB? However is FITB is an option then listen to what the LJs say and flip a coin. If it’s FITB then go for it. Otherwise you may want to consider the top of the line FITB which in all tests of FITB came out far ahead of the others. Holy shitoly man, don’t listen to anybody but your heart.

-- 2014 will be a different year...at least for me it will.

View toolie's profile (online now)

toolie

1722 posts in 1231 days


#14 posted 494 days ago

anyone know what “FITB” refers to?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

1156 posts in 899 days


#15 posted 494 days ago

I would buy the $3000 saw now used for $1000. When you try to sell the $1000 saw you are sure you’ll grow out of it will only bring you $500.

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