Replacing Magnetic Dust Collector Switch with Non-Magnetic Switch?

you don’t need a dust collector just belch one of those out like inthe picture it will flash off any saw dust in the air. Randolph

-- another tip from cooperedpatterns

Hi Barry;

I would want to do it as well, but have to wonder why the mfg chose to use one.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

My guess is that the magnetic switch is a legal thing.

As long as the ratings for current/voltage are the same and the same configuration (SPST or DPDT) I would think it should work fine.

magnetic switches are safer, but if your remote system resets to off after a power outage, you should have no trouble.

-- making sawdust....

I’d do it also. It seems strange the the MFG put one in. I don’t see a safety issue with a dust collector like a jointer, saw or planer would represent.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

This isn’t 3 phase by any chance is it? or a really big motor??

-- Fred, Springfield, Ma

More details – the DC, a JDS 3100-CK, has a 3HP 240v single phase motor. Max draw is ~ 18a, it came with a 240v/20A plug installed.

Here’s my plan:

My DJ-20 does not have a mag switch. Even though the DJ-20 is only a 1 1/2 HP motor, the same switch is used on the 3HP Unisaw, so I know the switch should be properly rated. I plan on swapping the mag switch to the DJ-20 and using the non-mag switch on the DC.

The only rub, one that occurred to me last night, is that this DC has a second motor that “stir cleans” the air filter. I need to learn how this interfaces in the switch before I can move it. There may be some sort of timing device inside the mag switch. I may also be able to wire the output of the Long Ranger into the mag switch to properly operate the internals.

Plan “B” is to possibly relocate the mag switch away from the DC, in an easily accessible area, but I’ve really gotten used to the remote.

On a side note… the 120v Long Ranger works GREAT with HVLP turbines, too!

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I’d be interested in how you solve this. It might just be a good idea to call the people that made your dust collecter and see what they have to say.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

I’m electrically savvy, so I buzzed out the leads today.

There is a 240v timer, set to 1 minute that runs the filter beater. The timer is a socketed device, which made buzzing the leads much easier with an open circuit.

I identified the pull-up (ON button) and knock-down (OFF button) relay leads. Both only deal with 120v, so I don’t think inserting a relay would be that difficult. I could insert a relay, operated by the Long Ranger, with an early-make contact on the knock-down lead, and a make contact on the pull-up lead, and leave the input 240v hot. Both relay contacts would break if the LR was turned off. This should act like someone pushed the on and off buttons and still provide power to the stir motor. The 240v timer is powered from the hot side of the switch.

“EE”, you here? <g> If so, does it make sense to you?

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Barry,
Found your post looking for an answer to the same question concerning the exact same problem with the same model dust collector you have. I spoke with John @ JDS and he says they had to use the magnetic switch so there was power to the unit after it was shut off for the filter stir motor. If they had put a manual switch on, the stir motor circuit would be without power when the gates were closed. This creates real issues for guys like you and I who use the Long Ranger system. I have become very spoiled by my L/R system and refuse to manually go turn on my D/C. When and if you get this all figured out it would be greatly appreciated if you could fill in those of us who are lacking the electronic dept. Until I get this figured out I will be continueing on with my currently marginal collector. Thanks, Les C.

-- Loving what I do, while I do it for Christ !

Les,

I’d rather stir the motor myself instead of giving up the remote. To what John told you, when you push the off button, the 1 minute timer is activated. The timer is powered from the 240v “hot” side of the switch.

My latest, simple, idea, is this: Swap the switch with my DJ-20, and use a 240v Long Ranger on the DC. Remove the timer and socket from the mag switch housing and wire it into a separate box that contains 240v all the time, and add an appropriate switch (probably momentary, but I’ll have to explore this) to activate the timer manually.

I’ll then reuse the mag switch, minus the timer, on my DJ-20. You could even ditch the timer and simply manually turn the stir motor on and off with another 240v switch.

I think this is better than trying to rig a relay to do it all automatically.

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Barry,
I’ts been some time now since we last discussed your JDS electrical issue. I’m wondering what you ended up doing and how it’s working out for you? I’ts becoming more and more apparent to me that I am in serious need of a larger dust collector!
Hope all is well for you and yours during this wonderful Christmas season.

Les C.

-- Loving what I do, while I do it for Christ !

Thanks for the reminder!

I ended up with one of these:
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I orginally purchased a standard 220V Long Ranger, replaced the mag switch with a non-mag switch and added a push button interruptor to trigger the filter beater motor. The start-up current on the PSI DC was way too high for the LR220. It momentarily hit 70 amps, tapering to 18 within 6 seconds. This was too much for the LR220, and it contiunally tripped the breaker on the remote unit.

Penn State was very helpful. First, we replaced the push-button breaker. After no success, PSI creditied me for the LR220, towards the LR2244.

I installed the original timer unit for the filter motor into the PSI remote mag switch, and all is wonderful! The PSI mag switch is nearly identical to the JDS provided switch, so it installed and accepted the timer easily.

The original PSI mag switch is now on my DJ-20, which was not equipped with a mag switch from the factory.

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Sorry, the url got whacked…

Look HERE to see the solution.

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