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Help identifying Craftsman Table Saw model number

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Forum topic by Craftsman70 posted 03-20-2013 01:01 PM 3304 views 0 times favorited 37 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Craftsman70

241 posts in 815 days


03-20-2013 01:01 PM

This saw is on Craigslist near me being offered for $150. However they said the model # / serial # plate is missing. My concern if I bought it would be finding parts since I wouldn’t have the model number. Anyone recognize this? Assuming it works well, does anyone have an opinion on its value?


37 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

1769 posts in 1318 days


#1 posted 03-20-2013 02:21 PM

it’s a 113 series contractor saw built by emerson electric for sears. probably has a 1 or 1 1/2 hp motor. judging from the fence and what look like stamped steel wings, it appears to be identical to this ridgid TS 2412:

http://www.ridgid.com/ASSETS/C67D3E55F4C64E808D10D17D7026F721/TS2412_Table_Saw_Man.pdf

there were a ton of those saws built. they all had model number that were configured like this:

113.XXXXXX

the 6 numbers that would replace the”Xs” usually indicated what it’s basic model contained and then any optional features, like a leg stand. judging from the condition of the pictured saw, which looks good and clean, are they sure the id plate, which is on the rear of the left side of the saw cabinet when viewed form the operator’s position, is missing?

it’s a very popular starter saw and i have two of them. i like them so much , i sold a unisaw i refurbished and retained the two contractor saws. parts are readily available for them from several sources. that saw seems to be fairly complete, with a much better fence than most of them had (looks exactly like the OEM fence on my ridgid ts2412, which i’ve tuned to be every bit as accurate as the delta t2 i have on a cousin c-man TS) as well as having a miter gauge and it’s splitter/blade guard. for $150, it’s a good deal. anything less than that, assuming it’s operationally sound, makes it, IMHO, a really good deal on a first rate starter, and possibly long term, saw.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Craftsman70

241 posts in 815 days


#2 posted 03-20-2013 03:11 PM

Thanks toolie

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IrreverentJack

724 posts in 1533 days


#3 posted 03-20-2013 03:28 PM

I made the mistake of buying a Craftsman contractor saw with the model plate missing. I think the saw was a defective return that had ended up in the sellers hands. The table casting was warped into a U or valley shape. When I put a straight edge across the table the sides were 3/16 to 1/4” high. I was excited that the saw looked almost unused and didn’t even notice the scratches the miter gauge was making on the table. That saw might not be a de-branded saw but look out for it. Take my advise and bring a straight edge. -Jack

View Jimbo4's profile

Jimbo4

1145 posts in 1453 days


#4 posted 03-20-2013 04:21 PM

I agree with Jack. I worked at a Sears Hardware and shipped numerous “broken” returned items to a Sears outlet for refurbishment to be sold. The missing tag is / might be one of these items. No touch !

-- *Arachnoleptic Fit*: The frantic dance performed just after you've accidently walked through a spider web.

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Craftsman70

241 posts in 815 days


#5 posted 03-20-2013 04:53 PM

Thanks for the heads up. I’m going to take a look at it and will look it over well. Will definitely take a straight edge w/ me. I’ll post results in a few days.

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toolie

1769 posts in 1318 days


#6 posted 03-20-2013 05:10 PM

also, make sure t’s a belt drive and not either a direct or flex drive.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View History's profile

History

399 posts in 671 days


#7 posted 03-20-2013 05:53 PM

I’d be more worried that the saw was stolen. Why else would someone remove the ID plate ?

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Craftsman70

241 posts in 815 days


#8 posted 03-20-2013 06:18 PM

I’m hoping they just aren’t looking in the right place. Its a daughter who is posting it for her father-in-law who doesn’t know how to use craigslist. I’m hoping when I meet the father-in-law he’ll be able to answer more questions.

But regarding a previous post, was that standard procedure for Sears to remove the tag/plate when selling it as used/refurbished?

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Jimbo4

1145 posts in 1453 days


#9 posted 03-21-2013 01:28 AM

By Sears removing tags, or not, is unknown to me, just words I heard through the Sears “grapevine” that it was a possibility when they sent the items to be refurbished.

-- *Arachnoleptic Fit*: The frantic dance performed just after you've accidently walked through a spider web.

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Craftsman70

241 posts in 815 days


#10 posted 03-21-2013 02:05 PM

Well, I went and bought the saw last night. Turns out the tag wasn’t removed just was scrapped up pretty bad and very hard to read. However, I did a bone head move when I got it home.

It was dark and I was in a rush. I tried cranking the bevel and it was hard to move. Before buying it I’d looked underneath and saw it was just all gummed up with sawdust and grease. Not realizing how thin the sheet metal was, I cranked harder and that bent in the side of the case. I’m really surprised how thin the metal is. It made me wonder how long it would stay straight after hammering it back into shape. I think I’ll have to add some more metal inside that section to strengthen it. Anyway, I feel pretty dumb now.

I do have one more question, on the top of the cast iron before the blade, there are two screws set down about a 1/4 inch into the iron. Where those for some sort of add on?

View History's profile

History

399 posts in 671 days


#11 posted 03-21-2013 02:12 PM

They are probably 45 and 90 degrees stops.

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3190 posts in 1365 days


#12 posted 03-21-2013 02:21 PM

Thos screws in the top should be to adjust the trunions. They attach to the table but they are used to align the blade to the miter grooves. Get an owner’s manual and check this out.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1769 posts in 1318 days


#13 posted 03-21-2013 03:01 PM

unfortunately, grandpa is dead wrong. the two screws in the table top are to adjust the 90 and 45 degree bevel stops. i have two of these emerson built TSs and i backed them out so they are useless on the ridgid. my older c-man had stop collars on the bevel adjusting rod. i removed those entirely as i had no intention of employing the saw’s stops. i find they can too easily get clogged with sawdust which can throw off the settings.

the trunions are attached to the underside of the table with 6 bolts; 3 up front by the operator and 3 at the rear. read the owners manual regarding adjusting the trunions. it’s not difficult, provided the directions are followed. i’d suggest familiarizing yourself with that portion of the ridgid ts2412 OM i linked in the first reply to this thread. those instructions will work for the referenced saw.

FWIW, the bevel hand wheel has to really be cranked to bend the side of the saw cabinet. there is a bevel locking nut on the front of the saw cabinet above the elevation hand wheel. my guess is that it might not have been sufficiently loosened. when i first got my ridgid 2412, i bent that bolt when i tried to bevel the blade and neglected to loosen the bolt. ridgid sent me a replacement bolt and i’ve never forgotten since.

good luck with your new saw. it’s a good starter saw and is cared for properly, will provide many years of service. as i noted earlier, i like those saws so much i did the unimaginable and kept them over a unisaw.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View SamuraiSaw's profile

SamuraiSaw

466 posts in 654 days


#14 posted 03-21-2013 03:26 PM

toolie is correct…..........

I backed mine out some, but perhaps not as far as he did. I didn’t want to allow the mechanism to go too far. But I didn’t trust the stops, too much chance for error. Get a digital gauge to set the blade angle.

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas.... www.awwtx.com

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Grandpa

3190 posts in 1365 days


#15 posted 03-21-2013 06:17 PM

I stand corrected.

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