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Best 14’’ BS for doing Curvy Work/ Not Re-sawing

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Forum topic by rustynails posted 401 days ago 598 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rustynails

433 posts in 1035 days


401 days ago

I am wondering what ever ones thoughts are in regards to the best new band saw on the market for doing curvy work. Basicly working with 1/4’’ blades and lower, with a larger than 6’’ height capacity possibly? (Could go either way on the capacity) and possibly using one of the Carter blade Stabilizer for fine blades? (Not sure how good the Carter blade Stabilizers are either so help on those would be appreciated as well. Also I would like it to be 110.

Re-sawing is not something I am after as I have a Laguna LT18 with the Driftmaster fence and re-saw king blade.

Thanks


15 replies so far

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

862 posts in 640 days


#1 posted 401 days ago

Check with Carter to make sure their Blade stabilizer kit will fit the band saw you are thinking about buying. They have a video which spells out band saw requirements too.

If going to use ¼” or less blades think any 14” bandsaw with block guides not ball bearing blade guides will work. I like cool blocks better than metal blocks that come with most band saws. Cool blocks real inexpensive upgrade.

If looking for smaller saw 10 or 12 inch think same applies, other than watch horse power some of those saws underpowered.

-- Bill

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

6776 posts in 2153 days


#2 posted 401 days ago

General 490 would be a good choice.

View rustynails's profile

rustynails

433 posts in 1035 days


#3 posted 400 days ago

Loren, General 490…great saw hard to find!

View Jack Gaskins's profile

Jack Gaskins

42 posts in 1520 days


#4 posted 399 days ago

Rikon 10-325

-- USAF Ret. 2006

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

2902 posts in 679 days


#5 posted 399 days ago

The General 490 is too expensive for me. +1 for Rikon. Rikons are great saws.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5050 posts in 2091 days


#6 posted 399 days ago

the difference between curvy work and resawing is down to the blade choice a wider blade will cut curves less well than narrower blade and vice versa. Alistair buy as big a bandsaw as you can accomodate /afford.

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

6776 posts in 2153 days


#7 posted 399 days ago

Pick up a used INCA 340 if you can tolerate the search
and its 10” wheels. They are fine machines and some
have a direct drive motor setup making them portable.

They were made in Switzerland and later in France.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2895 posts in 792 days


#8 posted 399 days ago

Its not the saw, it’s the blade. Any saw will work with a 1/4 blade. I can even resaw with mine.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

2902 posts in 679 days


#9 posted 398 days ago

I agree with Russell. It’s the blade works and the hands do the magic! And variety of cutting techniques! Good luck.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

6776 posts in 2153 days


#10 posted 398 days ago

One thing to look for is a saw that puts the lower guides
right up tight under the throat plate.

View James Austin's profile

James Austin

26 posts in 1686 days


#11 posted 398 days ago

The 14 that I have came from Sears, was made by Rikon, has 8” cut capacity, and full ball bearing blade guides.
The blade rides against the edge of the ball bearing ( Like the Carter kits do ) instead of the side like most bandsaws.
I had one of the side bearings fail, so I replaced all of the originals( chinese) with bearings made in the US.
I use blades made by Timberwolf.
The downside of this saw is it uses a blade that is 99 inches, and has to be bought at Sears, or ordered from the aftermarket. So if you break one you can’t run to the hardware store and get one.
I’m well pleased with the saw..

-- Some people have a shop so they can build things, the rest of us build things so we can have a shop...

View Marv88's profile

Marv88

31 posts in 405 days


#12 posted 398 days ago

Can’t help much with the band saw choice as everyone will have a different opinion on that however I may be able to help make things easier with your scroll work since I do quite a bit of that daily with a 14” Delta using a technique I devised after watching the Carter video (I couldn’t see paying a hundred bucks for a small piece of aluminum with a wheel attached). First thing I do is smooth/slightly round the back edges of the blade using a small fine file (I do this CAREFULLY with the saw running which may not be the safest thing to do so proceed at your own risk!). Next I back the bottom guide completely off as they do with the Carter, set the top guide “normally” (I use Cool Blocks) and raise it about the height shown on the Carter video. This lets the blade easily pivot while staying on the wheels and I can now use a heavier 1/4” blade to cut a tighter radius than the 3/16” blades I was using without constantly breaking them.

View rustynails's profile

rustynails

433 posts in 1035 days


#13 posted 398 days ago

I have a lead on a use Rikon 10-325 for a good price that is in mint condition so I may just get it…

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 804 days


#14 posted 398 days ago

ANY BANDSAW WITH CARTER STABILIZER

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 804 days


#15 posted 398 days ago

THE CARTER STABILIZER IS THE CREAM OF THE PIE ENOUGH SAID

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

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