Jointer Motor

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Forum topic by Mark828 posted 03-18-2013 01:39 PM 790 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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93 posts in 1020 days

03-18-2013 01:39 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question jointer

Through one of my mother’s friends I got a Harbor Freight 8” Jointer for free. Only problem is the motor doesn’t work. I suppose a broken one is better than none at all? Anyway, the man said the motor didn’t even start when he set it up. But He also said he kept the factory oil on for protection when there is a sticker clearly stating to remove it before use. So I finally got around to messing with it and here is what is happening at the moment.

- With the belt removed the motor starts and sounds like it reaches the max rpm but I must hold the on button down for it to stay on.

- With the belt on, it struggles to start and it spins relatively slow, it will also eventually trip the circuit breaker. and again the machine will not stay on with a push of the on button.

I’m pretty sure the motor is 115v so I don;t think a lack of power is the problem, but what do I know I’m just a kid. I’m not to keen with anything electrical or electric motors for that matter. If anyone has had a similar problem or think this is a no brainier fix ORRR the motor is now just a nice paper weight, It would be much appreciated.



11 replies so far

View Holbs's profile


965 posts in 1121 days

#1 posted 03-18-2013 02:00 PM

i’m pretty sure a on going circuit breaker trip on a motor spells disaster in the realm of the in wall circuit romex wire possibly starting a fire? We can assumethe motor circuit breaker will catch the issue… we can assume the circuit structure wire will catch the issue if the motor does not. that is alot of assuming.

-- --- If attacked by a mob of clowns, go for the Juggler

View muleskinner's profile


747 posts in 1528 days

#2 posted 03-18-2013 02:16 PM

Sounds like it could be a 220v motor trying to run on 110v. Check for a nameplate on the motor.

-- Visualize whirled peas

View Mark828's profile


93 posts in 1020 days

#3 posted 03-18-2013 03:16 PM

its says, 110v, 18.5 amps, 2hp.

View poopiekat's profile


4056 posts in 2826 days

#4 posted 03-18-2013 03:31 PM

does the cutterhead spin freely by hand with the v-belt removed?

-- Einstein: "The intuitive mind is a sacred gift, and the rational mind is a faithful servant. We have created a society that honors the servant and has forgotten the gift." I'm Poopiekat!!

View derosa's profile


1567 posts in 1927 days

#5 posted 03-18-2013 03:43 PM

I’d start by replacing the switch, the fact that you have to hold the on button to keep it running means that it isn’t properly creating the curcuit that the motor needs to run. Just because it runs while holding the button. Does’t mean that a circuit is created that will allow the jointer to fully draw off of the line. With an 18 amp draw to start with make sure you’re running it on a dedicated 20 amp line; it may not always draw 18, probably only does so at startup but it may get close enough to 15amp while working that it may regularly trip the circuit. Nonetheless, don’t try a nything till you’ve replaced the switch.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View Mark828's profile


93 posts in 1020 days

#6 posted 03-18-2013 04:43 PM

That’s a good idea, it starts and locks every once in a while, which is probably still due to a faulty switch. would taking the switch apart and completing the circuit myself be wise before i order a new switch?

View derosa's profile


1567 posts in 1927 days

#7 posted 03-18-2013 05:38 PM

With electrical, if you have to ask i’d tend to lean towards no. Really it wouldn’t be easy since you would need to connect the ground and neutral wires just to be safe and would then be holding two live wires . Just isn’t the best idea. If you’re really curious just swipe the switch from something else and try it.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View Mark828's profile


93 posts in 1020 days

#8 posted 03-18-2013 05:44 PM

ahh perfect. will take it right off my little old table saw. will try. Thanks

View runswithscissors's profile


1658 posts in 1117 days

#9 posted 03-20-2013 08:00 AM

Could be the starter capacitor. Remove it and take it to an electrical shop, preferably one that does electric motors. They can check it for you. It’s a very inexpensive replacement—maybe $15 or so. Better yet, take the whole motorl

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Mark828's profile


93 posts in 1020 days

#10 posted 03-21-2013 03:08 AM

Yeah i might have someone look at it. Tried it with a new switch and it still wouldn’t get running at full rpm. Still sputters. I suppose it would be cheaper then buying a whole new one!

View Loren's profile


7967 posts in 2740 days

#11 posted 03-21-2013 03:58 AM

Yeah. Take the whole motor to a motor shop for a test.

Motors are pretty amazingly resilient inventions. Capacitors
go out and all, but the principles of how they work
are very proven and they last a long, long time when
set up correctly.


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