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Forum topic by distrbd posted 502 days ago 1549 views 1 time favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1016 posts in 1051 days


502 days ago

what do you use to lock your TS blade in order to loosen the knot ?I always use a scrap piece of pine to wedge the blade against the frame ,then I use a wrench to loosen it.
There’s this “blade changing tool” sold by LeeValey but I wonder if it’s useful being made out of plastic and all.:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,240,45884,60444&p=60444
If you use the method I mentioned,did you ever damage the blade ?I know I have not yet but I always wonder if it could loosen the carbide teeth.

-- Ken from Ontario


12 replies so far

View Mark Davisson's profile

Mark Davisson

477 posts in 1922 days


#1 posted 502 days ago

Ken, I use Allan Little’s method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrEe4IKynR0

-- I'm selfless because it feels so good!

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15671 posts in 2823 days


#2 posted 502 days ago

I use the slim wrench that came with the saw to hold the arbor still. I’m not thrilled about any method that puts pressure on the teeth.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View ScottKaye's profile

ScottKaye

265 posts in 558 days


#3 posted 502 days ago

I use Charlie’s method as well.

-- "Nothing happens until you build it"

View Bobmedic's profile

Bobmedic

302 posts in 1407 days


#4 posted 502 days ago

My saw came with 2 wrenches, one for the arbor and one for the nut. Works great. Important thing is to not over tighten. Snug is plenty tight enough.

-- Save lives, ease suffering, reduce morbidity and mortality, stomp out pestilence and disease, postpone the inevitable, and fake compassion. The Paramedics Creed

View cagenuts's profile

cagenuts

35 posts in 825 days


#5 posted 502 days ago

Wow, that’s a pretty simple yet very safe and effective way of changing a blade. Thanks for the video link.

-- Weekend Wood Wrecker

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1016 posts in 1051 days


#6 posted 502 days ago

Mark Davisson,Thank you for the link,it’s easy enough ,I’m going to use that method(for changing regular blades) from now on.

Charlie and Scott ,My saw is 37 years old and unfortunately I don’t have the thin wrench for the arbor,I’m not even sure if the arbor on this saw has a flat notch on it i.t should,I’ll have to check,if it does it would be easy enough to make a wrench for it and use it when changing dado blades.
Thank you all for your very helpful posts.

-- Ken from Ontario

View Loren's profile

Loren

7276 posts in 2253 days


#7 posted 502 days ago

Considering the cost of having a tooth replaced, I’d say
the Lee Valley tool is a smart buy.

I wedge a piece of wood in a gullet. I’ve had a couple
of saws that had a hole for a bar you drop in to lock
the arbor or a wrench.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5372 posts in 1980 days


#8 posted 502 days ago

Most of the time I’m able to break the nut loose while just holding onto the blade between the knuckle of my index finger and thumb (obviously I avoid the teeth, but you can use a leather glove if you’re more comfortable). It’s fast and effective the vast majority of the time….the key is to just snug the nut in the first place…..it doesn’t need to be overly tight because it’s self tightening. If that doesn’t work on the first try, I grab a quick-grip type clamp and place the jaws on each side of the blade body in place of the grip of my hand….the blade will rotate until the clamp rests on the table surface and provides more resistance than my hand. If that fails, as a third resort I use a block of wood to stop the rotation.

I’m not advocating that it’s the best method, but it’s what I do.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

899 posts in 630 days


#9 posted 502 days ago

Ha. My old Unisaw has flats machined on the arbor. I made my own wrench out of 1/4” plate steel. I finally threw away the Delta sheet metal nut wrench and bought a used 7/8” combination wrench ($.50) at the pawn shop. Out of the whole bin of random wrenches, it was the first one I picked up. Hardly rates a tool gloat, I suppose.

Before I had the Uni, I did the old wedge a piece of wood between the teeth and the table trick. Considering those teeth are designed to strike hardwood at a high rate of speed, I doubt if tapping against the carbide with a stick would harm them. But I’ve been wrong before.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1724 posts in 1233 days


#10 posted 501 days ago

+1 on KS’s leather glove suggestion. that’s what i do. also, forrest advises against using wood to chock the blade teeth:

http://www.forrestblades.com/Forrest_Saw_Blade_Instructions.pdf

see “installing blade on saw arbor”.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2094 posts in 793 days


#11 posted 501 days ago

Those plastic deals are useless if the blade has got on good and tight, maybe thru a tough cut that almost jammed the saw. The reason, of course, is that when using this plastic thing to try and loosen the arbour nut, the teeth don’t want to dig into it, that only happens on tightening. A waste of money I would say.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1840 posts in 2166 days


#12 posted 501 days ago

I also hold the blade with my fingers. If you can’t loosen it this way, it’s too tight.

-- Joe

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